B 38 2003 help advice needed .

[singlefish]

Boat out the water now , planning winter maint etc .wonder if any sages had advice on :

Removing prop /blades to change ring anode on the 120 sd , I have 3 blade folding volvo prop .

Gaining access to deck head to fit extra clutches , remove winches for services (trust they are bolted on )

Ive pumped as much FW out but is there a low spot in system that bow and stern tanks will drain too , or am I being over cautious .

Similarily will I have drained transom shower enough ( I ran pump by alternating hot /cold in both sinks -toilet /galley , and both tanks untill no water , returned and reapeated day later ).

any tips on adding antifreeze to sw side of engine ,

any other advice , all gratefully recieved .

thanks

[Odysseus]

Disconnect the fresh water pump pipes on pump, easy to do as water may freeze in pump and split case or diaphragm.

 Take off shower tap on stern as freezing will split it,

 Prop no problem, bend the tab washer back and get a 13mm socket down so will need an extention, then undo outer bolt unit with a 23mm or 5/16 socket, prop will slide off spline.

When you replace the anodes make sure you paint the area around anode  bolt hole as this is the part that will eat away first and your anode will depart with the centrifugal force, make sure you have a good contact though, no paint under the bolt.

Remember to locktite in all bolts on reassy, locktite 243.

I put my antifreeze mixture directly into the filter unit using a 2lt bottle full of 50/50 mix.


Take the impeller out

Vaseline the window seals.

I have a boat winter shut down list if you want it.

Odysseus

[singlefish]

was thinking more of how to remove and replace folding blades ,looks like undo interference socket cap screw that keeps each blades locating pin in , knock out pins and remove pins which guessing will give acess to stuff you mention ,

putting blades back in I envisage tricky as need to mesh together . praps not a prob , dont know ?


water pump are fittings push/pull type any danger of not resealing properly and pump not attaining pressure on reinstatement ??


many thanks for tips

[Odysseus]

The blades come off no problem, they are numbered and it's important to get them right when you put them back. Refitting is easy as well, as you say the retaining bolts keep the pins in not like the old Volvo props.

Water pump is a half turn or undo a fitting  on each pipe, and they seal OK after. All logical.

Odysseus

[Rampage]

Winches:  The Harken webiste has a set of downloads of exploded drawings of the winches, which shows how to strip the winches down for servicing.  If your 38 is like mine then you'll have 44 winches for the genoa and 40s for the main sail lines.  The 44s can be serviced without removing the winch bases from the boat as all the components can be removed from the winch carcase.  The 40s carcases have to be removed from the coach house roof once the winch body has been removed.  The carcase is fixed in place by machine screws which engage with threaded holes in a metal plate fixed into the roof.  You may well need an impact driver to get them out, as the cross headed screws are easy to strip with a normal driver.

Hope that helps out.

[singlefish]

cheers to all , i do need to remove coach roof winch as one has been incorrectly assembled drum can lift 12mm or more ,   any experience anyone has had fitting extra clutches and access underneath them , or into tapped  plate too

get point removing ss screws from tapped alloy plates , can be tricky , beam bolts on cat I sail are similar , copper slip on reassembly helps for next time .


while Im on a roll

anyone fitted a shower pump from well , and tips for same .

[Rampage]

On Rampage the plate is accessed from underneath by a panel in the head lining, so if you want youcan drill through the plate and use a nut and bolt rather than tapping the plate.  No idea what your boat will be like as the internal layout varies so much from year to year.