Author Topic: Blue Liquid Seeping from Hull /Keel Joining Bavaria 50 Cruiser  (Read 4810 times)

dougieji

  • Swab
  • Posts: 8
  • Karma: +0/-0
Just inspected a Bavaira 50 cruiser with a view to purchase. Boat on hard for some time in Thailand looks well maintained overall BUT there is seeping blue fluid from where keel attaches to hull. Before i think about a survey has anyone an idea of what causes this and is it a problem. Are the bolt on steel keels coated with copper?

Yngmar

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 1526
  • Karma: +18/-2
  • Boat Model: 40 Ocean
  • Boat Year: 2001
There's no copper there, and anything leaking out of that area is a point for some concern. You likely have seawater ingress to the keel bolts, possibly the blue fluid is a dye from a previous attempt at finding/confirming leaks. This means the area between keel and hull must be dried out, the keel bolts inspected and if any corrosion is found, replaced. Then the keel/hull joint must be resealed. This is mostly done by dropping the keel, which is an expensive undertaking.
Sailing Songbird  ⛵️ Bavaria 40 Ocean (2001)

Symphony

  • Old Salt
  • *****
  • Posts: 1106
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Boat Model: Bavaria 33
  • Boat Year: 2015
Agree with Yngmar that needs further investigation, but suspect it is colouring from some form of sealant applied to cover gaps in the joint. If there was serious water leakage from a failed joint or corrosion of the bolts it would show as rust stains. The face of the keel is cast iron (if it is an iron keel), but only rusts if water gets in from a failed seal. Difficult to tell from the photos but the keel looks like it might be lead.

dougieji

  • Swab
  • Posts: 8
  • Karma: +0/-0
1) Dissimilar metals(Keel bolts/steel &keel/cast iron) and alloys(copper coat) have different electrode potentials, and when two or more come into contact in an electrolyte (in this case sea water), one metal acts as anode and the other as cathode. If the electrolyte contains only metal ions that are not easily reduced (such as Na+, Ca2+, K+, Mg2+, or Zn2+), the cathode reaction is reduction of dissolved H+ to H2 or O2 to OH−. The electro-potential difference between the reactions at the two electrodes is the driving force for an accelerated attack on the anode metal, which dissolves into the electrolyte.

2) This leads to the metal at the anode corroding more quickly than it otherwise would and corrosion at the cathode being inhibited. The presence of an electrolyte and an electrical conducting path between the metals is essential for galvanic corrosion to occur. The electrolyte provides a means for ion migration whereby ions move to prevent charge build-up that would otherwise stop the reaction.

I would never be able give a diagnostic analysis from a picture in any event,


Below if you are interested is regarding keel checks where you can form your own better informed decisions,

Keel studs and their retaining nuts and washers should be inspected visually every year for any signs of corrosion and, in particular, before and after any significant passage. Any sign of corrosion of the studs or signs of rust weeping at the hull to keel join, water ingress around the keel join, or loosening of the studs should be addressed immediately and, wherever possible, with the assistance of a qualified surveyor and/or a reputable repair yard. It is not generally necessary or advisable to draw the studs and lower the keel unless there is evidence of damage, corrosion or general loosening.

Certainly a yacht must be lifted from the water and visually inspected after any grounding, no matter how insignificant it might appear. A good insurance policy will provide cover for this and the cost will be accepted as a fair cost irrespective of whether or not damage is found. In our view, the policy excess should be waived in respect of the inspection and only applied if there is damage requiring repair. With most incidents of grounding there will be an element of point impact damage and there may be some consequential shock damage elsewhere. Sometimes the latter is the most damaging.

After a grounding and inspection of the hull, it is always prudent to check the engine and generator mounts to ensure that none of them has become dislodged or broken. In more significant groundings the rig should be checked too. The engine is often the ?get out of jail card? in an emergency situation.

The modern matrix design of some light-displacement yachts gives concern. We frequently encounter incidents where the keel structural matrix has been damaged and consequently moves independently of the hull skin. This is generally encountered after grounding when only an in-water inspection has taken place. When the vessel is hauled ashore and the keel inspected while still in the slings, any twist or separation of the matrix bonding becomes evident.
It is important to inspect the hull to keel join with the keel studs/bolts in tension ? i.e. with the vessel held in slings, rather than resting on her keel ? when any gap or movement/damage will be more appreciable. Continued use of a yacht in which the keel matrix has separated is dangerous.

I offer the forgoing only as advice with no preconception, with no legal implications and without prejudice

Cheers Steve (MIIMS-Lloyd's Maritime-NZ Eng 1):peace:[/QUOTE]

The electro-potential difference between the reactions at the two electrodes is the driving force for an accelerated attack on the anode metal, which dissolves into the electrolyte.

This makes perfect sense to me. The electrical activity and resulting corrosion has caused the blue fluid to leak out of the space where the sea water, the electrolyte entered in the first place and from my inspection the seal was broken in many parts which would indicate that the problem is quite advanced

Thank you again for your insights


Symphony

  • Old Salt
  • *****
  • Posts: 1106
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Boat Model: Bavaria 33
  • Boat Year: 2015
Your explanation of galvanic action is correct and well known to those of us who have been involved with yachts for most of our lives. However, it is not particularly relevant here because the interface is between 316 stainless steel and cast iron and there is in theory no seawater present. Galvanic action is very rare in keel attachments because of the closeness of the metals on the galvanic scale and the huge disparity in their bulk. Much more common (and often mistaken for galvanic action) is crevice corrosion which occurs when the area around the stainless is both damp and deprived of oxygen. This results in the protective layer of the stainless eroding. This is a hidden danger if there is any failure of the seal so allowing water to seep in. Eventually rust stains come out where the water got in, but rarely does it result in failure of the bolt or stud.

While you have to drop the keel to establish if anything has failed, there is a lot that can be learned from a visual inspection, not least in narrowing down the possibilities before perhaps investigating further.

Similarly your advice on inspection, particularly after grounding, of keels and internal structures is pertinent. This subject has been discussed in similar depth recently in the yachting press, particularly following the loss of Cheeki Rafiki through apparent failure of the keel structure. The MAIB report considers the issues in great detail, focussing on the vulnerability and repair of bonded matrix structures such as those now used by Bavaria.

So, thanks for reminding us of the issues and I am sure there are some forum members who have perhaps not seen such detailed descriptions of the issues.

dougieji

  • Swab
  • Posts: 8
  • Karma: +0/-0
but i believe sea water was present which caused the process to begin the first place indicated  by the fact that coloured fluid was seaping out from the area of where the keel connects with the hull, when the boat was on the hard, which to me means that sea water was gong in in the fist instance

Spirit of Mary

  • Able Seaman
  • ****
  • Posts: 151
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Boat Model: Bavaria 38
  • Boat Year: 2003
Under this link find how Bavaria fits the keels.
With this fitting (glueing) it will be very tough to remove the keel and damage to the hull will be unavoidable.

 www.bavariayacht.info/forum/in...c=1216.0;attach=1413

Is it coppercoat what is on the underwater hull? The corrosion products of the keel connection bolt material and keel are not blue but brown. Take a sample of the liquid and find a laboratory for analysis.

Ger

Symphony

  • Old Salt
  • *****
  • Posts: 1106
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Boat Model: Bavaria 33
  • Boat Year: 2015
but i believe sea water was present which caused the process to begin the first place indicated  by the fact that coloured fluid was seaping out from the area of where the keel connects with the hull, when the boat was on the hard, which to me means that sea water was gong in in the fist instance

Yes, there is evidence that water has got in the joint, but if it has caused any corrosion then the stain would be brown, not blue. The break in the seal may be quite shallow and water is unlikely to reach as far as the studs.

Not sure there is enough evidence to suggest it is worth dropping the keel just based on that stain.  You need to inspect the keel joint all round to see if there are any other loose areas of sealant or signs of damage. Damage from grounding usually shows in the hull area immediately in front or particularly aft of the keel, rather than in the middle as in the photos.

Impavidus

  • Old Salt
  • *****
  • Posts: 234
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Boat Model: Bavaria C 37
  • Boat Year: 2015
Dougieji. Hi. You don't say what year your B 50 is? The latest boats have the keel bolted and bonded to the hull as per the link Spirit of Mary has posted. The previous boats had the keels bolted and a bed of sealant was put in before the keel bolted.

I suspect looking at your photos that your B50 has the latter. (The later boats do not have a well defined line between the keel and hull). This sealant is notoriously hard to paint over and does have a tendency to flex a little especially if the boat sits on its keel on your mooring at low tide or when it is lifted in or out.

The Coppercoat you have on your hull comprises of copper dust suspended in an epoxy coating which is not flexible. Any movement or flexing between the hull and the keel causes this coating to crack and/or delaminate from the sealant. Normal antifoul can flex enough to accommodate this but can still sometimes be seen peeling off the joint or weeping salt water (rusty) at this point. It does not necessarily mean you have salt water in the keel joint or around the bolts.

I think what you have here is classic of Copper coated boats. Salt water has penetrated the Coppercoat through a crack in the epoxy coating and is now weeping out of the same. The water is oxidising the copper leaving salts behind as it evaporates causing the blue green staining you see in the pictures.

Using your fingernail poke the point at which its weeping, see if there is any cracking or what appears to be bubbling of the Coppercoat at that point. Any water trapped behind it?  Look very closely at the surface with a magnifying glass. I bet there is cracking of the coating and salt water is sitting behind it just at the keel joint.

Hope this info helps.

Ant.         
Visit our YouTube channel here:  https://www.youtube.com/c/SVImpavidusAntCidSailing

dougieji

  • Swab
  • Posts: 8
  • Karma: +0/-0
Impavidus. Thank you for your excellent input and what you have pointed out makes perfect sense. The boat in question is not mine "Yet" i had a first inspection only yesterday with a view to purchase. I understand it is 2006 version so your comment "The previous boats had the keels bolted and a bed of sealant was put in before the keel bolted. would apply and the inflexible copper coat put on top. Unfortunately I am not in a position to re visit the boat as it is in Thailand and i am no longer near. As I have said there were no rust colour stains only the teal blue weeping stains and they were all around where the keel met the hull so the cracking of the copper coat makes sense. Thanks again. I will contact the seller with this information and see what he says. I will ask him to do the finger poking

Impavidus

  • Old Salt
  • *****
  • Posts: 234
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Boat Model: Bavaria C 37
  • Boat Year: 2015
Re: Blue Liquid Seeping from Hull /Keel Joining Bavaria 50 Cruiser
« Reply #10 on: August 07 2017, 21:17 »
Dougieji. You cant beat a bit of finger poking!  :o :o :o

The 2006 models had the keels bolted on with a bed of sealant. The Bavaria 50 is a lovely boat. I was out on a 2003 49 at the weekend (which is almost identical hull shape and size) watching the start of the Fastnet. I had a chance over the weekend to helm the BOA commodores boat "Island Alchemy" for probably 6 hours or so. I have to say I was very impressed! She handled like a true blue water boat. Stable, predictable and very sea worthy. The layout is the same as yours, so much space to hide things where you will never find them ::)

The boat was surprisingly quick, sailing well under just the fore-sail down wind without the main out. There were 6 of us on board. Two of the crew had not sailed for a while. Just before we got to Cowes (IOW) the wind in a squall went from F4 to F9 in just a few minutes. The boat handled it without any drama, Skipper Bob put her head to wind and we put away the flogging Jib quickly without drama. We continued to sail with one reef just on the wind until it passed. Vey impressive.

The boat weight to ballast is high, the hull shape forward of the keel is actually quite fine, making her a smooth entry without slamming. Did I mention fast??? I've sailed a few boats in the 45+ category, up to 60ft Oyster. I have to say you have picked a cracking boat with lost of space and good performance too.

Don't be afraid to pick at the coating to look at what's underneath. A genuine seller will want you to be assured you are buying a good boat.

I hope your soon aboard your new boat living the dream. Look forward to an invite to crew  ::) ::) ::) ::)

Best regards Ant



     
Visit our YouTube channel here:  https://www.youtube.com/c/SVImpavidusAntCidSailing

dougieji

  • Swab
  • Posts: 8
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Blue Liquid Seeping from Hull /Keel Joining Bavaria 50 Cruiser
« Reply #11 on: August 08 2017, 04:49 »
Thank you Ant. I slept on your reply last night and I think your conclusions are absolutely correct. I have a few other ones to inspect before i proceed with a survey on this one. I am also looking at at Buizen 48 Pilothouse (be interested if you would google it and give me your opinion) It is designed / made in Australia where i live and i do like the look and practicality of the Pilothouse and the wheel position but the interior layout of the Bavari is superior to my way of thinking. Again may thanks you have been most helpful. Douglas

Craig

  • Old Salt
  • *****
  • Posts: 288
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Boat Model: Bavaria 38 Cruiser
  • Boat Year: 2009
Re: Blue Liquid Seeping from Hull /Keel Joining Bavaria 50 Cruiser
« Reply #12 on: August 08 2017, 12:32 »
dougieji,

The Buizens are great boats but can not be compared to a Bavaria. Totally different concepts. They are made in small quantities, much more hand made and much more prone to Mondayitis than Bavarias produced in a factory turning out over 1000 boats per annum. Compared to a typical Bavaria, they are expensive and prone to variability in construction.

As a Bavaria owner I am of course biased towards a boat produced like a Toyota Motor car rather than pre Model T production methods.

Craig
" Shirley Valentine"
Gold Coast
Australia

dougieji

  • Swab
  • Posts: 8
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Blue Liquid Seeping from Hull /Keel Joining Bavaria 50 Cruiser
« Reply #13 on: August 08 2017, 12:46 »
you are correct the price difference is outstanding. i am looking at one in Perth western Australia in a couple of weeks but the price is nearly 3 times an equivalent Bavaria, i will let you know my impressions. thank you for your interest Craig

douglas

Impavidus

  • Old Salt
  • *****
  • Posts: 234
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Boat Model: Bavaria C 37
  • Boat Year: 2015
Re: Blue Liquid Seeping from Hull /Keel Joining Bavaria 50 Cruiser
« Reply #14 on: August 09 2017, 19:54 »
Dougieji.

I tend to agree with Craig. Some good points well made.

I was in a sailing club on Friday night and there were three Westerly owners waxing lyrical about how well they were built and how thick the hulls were. "not like them Bavaria's", one of them said. He did not know I was a Bavaria owner or that I have owned Westerly's. I found it quite amusing. I was going to ask if he had ever sailed or owned a Bavaria or if knew his beloved boat was made from chop strand glass fibers entirely?  Or if his headlining had fallen down this season yet? Or how he was getting on drying out the mushy balsa core decks.....  So all boats have issues.

Production line manufacture gives a greater consistency of quality and control over the process. A Shipwrights apprentice is not going to be left on his own to drill holes in the wrong place then try to "hide it" at the Bavaria factory. The higher volume tends to improve quality not diminish it. After all, Bavaria would not want to recall 100 boats because they all came out the factory with the same fault? And they do actually like constructive criticism that improves the model. The 2000 to 2006 run of 32-34-36 is a good example of how feedback from owners improved some niggles (but not all of them) My own boat model the 2015 37c has had changes made on later boats that I wish I had.

There are also boats that I would not touch with a barge pole and some of these are production boats. I was talking to someone at the weekend about them. There is a production boats that at one time a certain marina chain would not lift without a surveyor present as the bulkheads are not opposite across the boat and the webbing slings if not placed precisely could cause hull cracking. Another type of boat is renown for falling over if the water ballast is not put in before sailing. There is a great boat made locally to me that has twin rudders. The early versions were un-steerable at low speed and all the models now have bow thrusters.

Bavaria's are not perfect. If you have owned one and your honest you will admit that. You only have to read through the forum a few times to see the same questions being asked many times.
However, you get a lot of boat for your money. You can customize the boat pre-sale or second hand, to suit your use of the boat or budget. They do tend to hold their value if well looked after and the little issues they have, are fixable or able to be monitored and prevented, given a reasonable amount of inspection and (preventative) maintenance. Generally spares are readily available from the original part manufacturers or ebay, and given some guidance most owners with some DIY skills could change almost every part if they needed to.

Most of the parts are supplied by an outside supply chain. IE Selden, Volvo, etc. My experience is that its these 3rd party parts that fail or need regular maintenance, not the parts made by Bavaria.

Lets look at a Halberg 37 as an example, just to illustrate my point.
A production boat (not on Bavaria's scale) Same Selden rigging as a fitted to a Bavaria 37. Same standing rigging size and diameters. Same running rigging spec with the same rope supplier as a a Bavaria 37. Same Lloyds approved supplier of glass fibre matting, woven roving's, closed cell foam, and other parts in hull construction. Same 316 stainless fittings in many places, same Lewmar winches, same engine and gearbox used on many models. Same hatch maker, same portlights. Same sail maker. I could go on...

Yes, the hull shape is a finer entry, making them more comfortable in heavy weather. But a wet boat.  Ballast ratio slightly up on a Bavaria, a bit stiffer in a blow stops slamming but slows the boat down. Skeg hung rudder gives better protection if you have an argument with a submerged object. But they are unbelievably expensive for what they are, compared to a Bavaria, and both are Class A open ocean boats. Do Halberg's have problems? You are damn sure they do! The same as Bavaria's. The trick is to look after them the same as you would a Bavaria?

After sales here in the UK is not particularly good sometimes. Other times its outstanding. Halburg's is legendary. But does that justify the £200k difference in price you may ask?   

Would I buy a Halburg Rassay over Bavaria 37? Not unless someone mysteriously added 200% to my pension pot and I won the Lotto!

Bavaria's are good solid boats. You need to maintain them, as you do any other boat. They need to used, not sit in a marina for months on end. The latter tends to cause more issues. If you asked the Bavaria owners on this forum, are they happy with their boat overall? I believe you would get the same consensus of opinion.

So,in summary. If someone would like to take this soap box off me, I will retire in to a red wine haze, and use the £200k I saved to buy more Gin and pay for the marina berth when the seas are uncomfortable to sail and I don't need to be wiping salt spray from my sun glasses.  :kewl :kewl :kewl :kewl

I hope this puts a prospective on your boat purchase and is an open and honest opinion without prejudiced, you will appreciate. And most of all I hope it helps!

Fair winds and safe sailing.

Ant.   

 

     
Visit our YouTube channel here:  https://www.youtube.com/c/SVImpavidusAntCidSailing

Salty

  • Old Salt
  • *****
  • Posts: 1216
  • Karma: +3/-1
  • Boat Model: Bavaria 36
  • Boat Year: 2002
Re: Blue Liquid Seeping from Hull /Keel Joining Bavaria 50 Cruiser
« Reply #15 on: August 09 2017, 22:27 »
Well said Ant 👮

dougieji

  • Swab
  • Posts: 8
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Blue Liquid Seeping from Hull /Keel Joining Bavaria 50 Cruiser
« Reply #16 on: August 10 2017, 02:27 »
Excellent Ant thanks for taking the time. I am with you on your summing up, the price of the Buizen is a killer for me and yes they are hand made but i can not yet see the justification. I will let you know how i feel when i inspect the one in Perth where i will be on the 25th aug. thanks again.  best wishes, douglas