Author Topic: Changing cabintop cleats on B38/2003  (Read 2350 times)

pjl

  • Swab
  • Posts: 17
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Boat Model: Bavaria 38
  • Boat Year: 2003
Changing cabintop cleats on B38/2003
« on: June 19 2017, 13:58 »
I have two small metallic cleats on the top of my cabin which may be there for the traveller control lines, but look like they are more suitable for a dinghy and like they have never been used.

I'm planning on bringing my halyards from the mast into the cockpit and I'd need two clutches for them. My traveller lines are routed through clutches which are a bit overkill and adjusting the traveller could be easier using cleats. So I'm planning on installing new cleats for the traveller lines and using the existing two for the halyards.

The current cleats sit besides the companionway, a bit more aft from the bank of clutches and that's where I'd like to install the new ones too. I gather it's possible to install new clutches since there's reinforcement plate under the roof, but I'm wondering how it is with the cleats?


Konan the Bavarian

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  • Boat Model: 37 Cruiser
  • Boat Year: 2006
Re: Changing cabintop cleats on B38/2003
« Reply #1 on: June 21 2017, 03:19 »
Hi pjl,
I have modified the control lines on my 2006 bav 37, as shown on he attached photos, to make them easier to use when at the helm.

hope this helps

Steven
SV Konan the Bavarian

pjl

  • Swab
  • Posts: 17
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Boat Model: Bavaria 38
  • Boat Year: 2003
Re: Changing cabintop cleats on B38/2003
« Reply #2 on: June 28 2017, 11:18 »
Thanks Konan!

This is exactly what I'm planning to do.

Regarding the organizers: did you just change the screws to longer ones from the top or did you need to do something from under the roof?

Konan the Bavarian

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  • Boat Model: 37 Cruiser
  • Boat Year: 2006
Re: Changing cabintop cleats on B38/2003
« Reply #3 on: June 29 2017, 05:14 »
Hi pjl,
I re-positioned the original triple blocks to starboard by one jammer width, drilled/tapped the coach roof for two new holes on the starboard side of the jammer, and reused four of the original holes. The original SS countersunk bolts were used.

I then drilled & tapped six new holes for the new triple block, using the same size/length bolts as the original jammers.

Steven
SV Konan