Author Topic: Saildrive Gaiter Replacement  (Read 2689 times)

suibhne

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Saildrive Gaiter Replacement
« on: October 24 2016, 10:18 »
My boat is a 2003 Bavaria 36

Engine VP 2020D Saildrive MS25S
Gaiter replacement is overdue and I have boat out on hard over winter and getting background information about doing the job myself.
A two questions arise;

1. How far forward will the engine have to be moved? (various sources differ)
2 Will the prop shaft have to be removed? the Volvo Guide shows it in place during removal,  but I suppose it depends on the specific boat internal clearance.

Anyone who has the same or similar yacht and carried out this operation and can help with information is much appreciated.

Yngmar

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Re: Saildrive Gaiter Replacement
« Reply #1 on: October 24 2016, 14:14 »
Done it on my 40 Ocean (2001) with 120S-E saildrive. The workshop manual (with torque values) is in the download section here. The engine needs to come forward about 5cm. As the engine only has two legs, with the rear resting on the saildrive, it must be supported aft, else it'll fall down into the sump and you'll have a hell of a time getting it back up (my MD22+saildrive weigh ~250 kg total). I've done this with a thick piece of timber that went under the flywheel housing and rested on the aft engine supports. Plus some timber wedges, which are handy for adjusting height when reconnecting it to the saildrive (that's the only hard part - get someone to help you with that).

To move the engine forward, I've tied a rope to one engine mount, looped it around the compression post (with some padding) and back around the other side engine mount, then tied it back to itself with a rolling hitch. Then I pulled up on both middle sections of the rope (between companionway steps and cabin table), which gave me good leverage and the engine slowly came forward. Slide the rolling hitch forward to tighten up the rope and repeat until the saildrive disconnects. The forward engine feet are still resting on the raised GRP they are bolted on, about flush with the forwardmost bit of that.

The prop shaft does not have to come out, you can angle the unit out of the hole (tilt gearbox back - the aft end of the propshaft comes out last). However, you might as well pop it open, it'll make it easier to lift out the heavy gearbox+leg and you want to inspect the shaft for wear and renew the seals anyways.

Oh, you also have to disconnect the exhaust hose from the engine, and the gearbox cable obviously - possibly throttle cable and fuel line, depending on your setup.
Sailing Songbird  ⛵️ Bavaria 40 Ocean (2001)

Salty

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Re: Saildrive Gaiter Replacement
« Reply #2 on: October 24 2016, 14:53 »
As per Yngmar's posting, but you will also need to disconnect the wiring from the alternator and from the starter motor, also the exhaust pipe and probably the raw water pipework. Highly recommend that you take photos of everything you have to undo before you take things apart, noting exactly, for example, which wires connect to which terminals on the alternator, (the yard staff who did my B36(2002) with same engine and saildrive that you have, and they got it wrong when putting it back together).
The old gaitor  on my boat came out looking like it was virtually brand new, and with hindsight I'd have left it in place for a few more years. At the time it was nine years old, and I'd never seen one close up before, and I'd be happy enough to re-use the old gaitor which is shown in the photos below.

suibhne

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Re: Saildrive Gaiter Replacement
« Reply #3 on: October 25 2016, 10:15 »
Thanks Yngmar and Salty both my questions answered as well as some very helpful advice.