Author Topic: D1-30 / raw water seals  (Read 5774 times)

CRYSTAL

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D1-30 / raw water seals
« on: March 09 2016, 11:06 »
Hi guys,

Last year I noticed some salt crystallizing around the raw water pump / hose so it must be time to change the seals I guess. I don't think I saw any oil so the seal keeping the oil towards the engine must still be ok.
Nonetheless, both should be replaced!!!

Anything I should be careful about /aware of or just remove / tap the seals out / clean shaft and re-insert seals in correct way.

I also found this nice article thanks from another post stating how to replace these seals on an MD2030:

http://mantaowners.org/wiki/manta-articles/how-to-articles/524-2/changing-the-raw-water-pump-seals-on-md2030/
stating about the garter spring to be replaced with an O-ring since it's the culprit in most cases.

any advise would be appreciated.

BR,
Hratch
CRYSTAL I

tiger79

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #1 on: March 09 2016, 13:10 »
You can buy seals with stainless steel springs.

dawntreader

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #2 on: March 09 2016, 15:58 »
I had a slight leak of seawater from my water seal on the raw water pump (D1-30) and sourced the new seal from Volvo at Plymouth. It's a relatively simple job to do and the engine floor is now dry. The oil seal was not leaking so I didn't bother to replace it - 'if it's not broke don't fix it'.

MarkTheBike

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #3 on: March 09 2016, 17:45 »
I'm with Dawntreader on this; we had a raw water leak and just replaced the outer seal (also from Volvo Plymouth), the oil seal was fine and remains in place. Easy to do without taking the pump off (MD2030D).
ATB

Mark

CRYSTAL

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #4 on: March 09 2016, 20:55 »
I hear you. Oil seal side is basically protected so no need.

so I should not get any surprises when I try to remove the housing / rod / etc..

I'll buy 2 seals as they should be identical and keep one spare - and hope to find it when need arises :)

Has anyone tried to replace that stupid piece of paper gasket that seals the impeller housing?

I always inspect the impeller for any broken pieces but opening the cap also destroys the paper gasket. D2-55 has an O-ring gasket which last long time.

any thoughts / ideas? I thought of cutting an exact shape from a rubber inner tube as it's almost the same thickness when screwed tightly.

thanks,
Hratch
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Salty

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #5 on: March 09 2016, 22:24 »
Has anyone tried to replace that stupid piece of paper gasket that seals the impeller housing?

I always inspect the impeller for any broken pieces but opening the cap also destroys the paper gasket. D2-55 has an O-ring gasket which last long time.

any thoughts / ideas?

Yes, with just a single gasket, but more if you have them, I photo-copied the gasket first on to plain white paper, turning the contrast up on the copier in order for the photocopy to show up dark against the white background of the copy paper. Making several copies I could then paste them all together side by side until I had enough to cover a single A4 sheet of paper to use as a template, checking as I went that the copies were all done at 1:1 ratio so that they remained exactly the same size as the original. Next I went to eBay and bought several sheets of gasket paper of 0.4mm thickness, and using the template I photocopied it to the gasket paper, see photo below, and I apologise for it's rather grainy appearance.
Next I selected a small hole punch from a set that I have and which I'd purchased some months earlier to make the perforations for the screw holes, doing this before cutting each gasket with a scalpel, doing the interior area first and lastly cutting the external outline. The hole punches were not expensive and make a better job of cutting the screw holes than a scalpel.
Whether you think that all worth doing, is up to you, but I don't know where else one can get a supply of cooling water pump gaskets without also having to buy the impeller as well, though no doubt one of the readers will be able to point us all in the right direction.
Until then I have a supply of the gaskets I need for relatively little outlay of cash. Whether you think that all worthwhile is up to you, but it works for me.

CRYSTAL

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #6 on: March 10 2016, 05:35 »
Excellent. You wouldn't happen to have the supplier details in case I dont find it locally.

Cheers
Hratch
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dawntreader

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #7 on: March 10 2016, 07:30 »
Excellent. You wouldn't happen to have the supplier details in case I dont find it locally.

Cheers

These impellers are manufactured by Jabsco and the part number is: JABSCO 673-0001 (cost about £15 GBP). Gasket not supplied.

I stopped messing about making my own gaskets and bought a Speedseal cover - allows change quickly and easily. Initially expensive but the ease of change etc. has paid for itself. Find them here: http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html

Symphony

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #8 on: March 10 2016, 08:46 »
Another vote for replacing the cover with a Speedseal.

Neil

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #9 on: March 10 2016, 10:00 »
I highly recommend the Speed seal upgrade. I installed it on my Volvo D2-40B engine. I accidently ran my engine with no raw water in the system. I was able to replace the impellor very quickly at sea. Interestingly the old impellor survived quite well, apart from one vane that had split slightly. I put the fact that it didn't fall apart down to the flat bearing that the speed seal has, and this saved me from having to disassemble the heat exchanger to extract parts of the impellor.

CRYSTAL

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #10 on: March 10 2016, 11:41 »
Neil, how much was the kit?

I'm going to London on the 15th for few days.

Tnx
Hratch
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Odysseus

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #11 on: March 10 2016, 13:16 »
I fitted mine 3 years ago and the impeller is still ok , no splits or signs of damage. I got the upgraded one as well.
Phone the guy direct from google site and he was very informative.
I do take impeller out over winter, its quick and easy. Also was told by Jabsco rep, the greatest reson for split vains is back pressure in system. So general maintenence is critical,  and the heat exchanger. All easy to do.
Odysseus
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Odysseus

Neil

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #12 on: March 10 2016, 15:37 »
I can't remember exactly, but I think it was around £100. Well engineered and worth it in my view.

dawntreader

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #13 on: March 11 2016, 07:39 »
Neil, how much was the kit?

I'm going to London on the 15th for few days.

Tnx
Price clearly indicated on the speedseal website. Cost will depend on spares etc. but £100 is good ball-park figure.

Salty

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Re: D1-30 / raw water seals
« Reply #14 on: March 11 2016, 09:19 »
Five sheets of 250mm square oil and water resistant gasket paper on eBay for £2.40 including postage, each sheet sufficient for at least ten gaskets, plus photocopier costs and your time and effort still works out at a very small number of pence per gasket. You pay your money and take your choice, and I don't doubt for one moment that the speed seal is a fine piece of equipment.