Shrouds replacement without unstepping the mast

[Lyra]

I intend to replace my shrouds sometime this year.

My question is if it is possible to selectively remove a shroud or two each time without unstepping the mast?
With no load of a sail I see no reason why removing the inner short shrouds (between the spreaders and below bottom spreader), one each side every time, should create a problem. How about the outer long shrouds (actually if I remember correctly they too are made of two sections meeting at the lower spreader)?
If it is possible - is there a recommended sequence for this operation?

[Baddox]

I’m in the process of doing the same.  I removed one of the lower stays for a couple of weeks while a new pair were made.  The mast had a non-problematic, very slight curve to it, without the stay although I wouldn’t have sailed like that.
When it comes to removing the cap shrouds, back and forestay I’ll first loosen the opposing rigging, and tension a halyard in place of wire before removing the stay.  The standing rigging is held in position at the end of the spreaders by a guide that is held in place with screws and/or a pin.
Our boat has rigging like you describe with a diagonal wire swaged onto the cap stays just below the spreader.  The diagonal is thinner wire than the main stay and required careful measuring for its length and location on the capstay.  Tensioning the diagonal is done using a bottle screw at the mast.

[JEN-et-ROSS]

I’m in the process of doing the same.  I removed one of the lower stays for a couple of weeks while a new pair were made.  The mast had a non-problematic, very slight curve to it, without the stay although I wouldn’t have sailed like that.
When it comes to removing the cap shrouds, back and forestay I’ll first loosen the opposing rigging, and tension a halyard in place of wire before removing the stay.  The standing rigging is held in position at the end of the spreaders by a guide that is held in place with screws and/or a pin.
Our boat has rigging like you describe with a diagonal wire swaged onto the cap stays just below the spreader.  The diagonal is thinner wire than the main stay and required careful measuring for its length and location on the capstay.  Tensioning the diagonal is done using a bottle screw at the mast.

Quite frankly. I can fully understand a competent rigger replacing the lowers with the mast still in place, but who is he going to send up the mast to disconnect the cap shrouds/back and forestay with the mast still vertical?  Sounds to me like an accident waiting to happen.
Don't forget that if you remove one shroud/stay at the masthead, its opposite number is now also loose, ( even with a halyard in its place )
I wouldn't think you would want to add the weight of some big bloke to the top of this now largely unsupported column.......? I guess its possible, but probably not a very good idea......Bill

[IslandAlchemy]

If you're doing them all, get the mast un-stepped.

The extra cost is not that much, and you can inspect the mast and all of the fittings properly when it is on stands.

[Mirror45184]

Hi Lyra,
Have performed rigging work on a mast that is stepped (masthead spinnaker halyard). Not much fun! Really do recommend un steppint the mast and replacing the standing rigging with the mast down. As IslandAlchemy says it is also an ideal time to inspect the mast properly, which is probably required is you need to replace the standing rigging. If you do want to proceed with leaving the mast up I would recommend using a boom lift elevated platform to replace the cap shrouds.

Regards
Mark