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Recaulking cockpit

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marioxp:
I'm preparing for recaulcking teak in cockpit, because the existing material has become soft and sticky.

I thought to do everything with Sikaflex 290DC PRO.

I noticed that one plank unstick from the base, I have to peel it off completely, and glue it. Can I use Sikaflex 290DC for this? or I have to buy whole pack of Sikaflex 298 just for one plank?

Do you have any tips how is easiest or best way to remove the existing caulck. How thoroughly do I have to clean the space between the planks? Do I have to pay attention to something special?

Do you have any tips for application of Sikaflex 290DC, except that I have to use Sika primer 290?

Thanks in advance.

SYJetzt:
For my teak caulking i went with TDS SIS 440, which works without priming.
I removed the existing caulking with my fein vibrating multitool using a cutter blade like this https://fein.com/de_de/zubehoer/schneidmesser-63903202210/ (You dont need a fein multitool, a simpler and cheaper tool does the job as well).
Then i used a carbide saw blade like this https://fein.com/en_uk/accessories/carbide-saw-blade-63502170210/ to sand the flanks of the planks .
To avoid sanding the whole deck after caulking (and reduce the thickness even more) i used masking tape on the wooden surface, applied the caulking with a gun and squeezed it in with a spatula even with the surface.
Then i immediatly removed the masking tape (when caulking was in soft state without a skin!) and let it cure. 

Repairing the loose plank seems to be a difficult job, because the planks are glued to a plywood backing. i don't have a clue how to do this ... :(     

Yngmar:
Would also recommend TDS-SIS 440. The re-caulking I did with it lasted until the end (of the deck) and it's less fuss and same cost as Sika with primer.

I replaced one of the short planks in the cockpit that had a crack with a reclaimed one from the deck. Used a wood chisel to remove the old plank and clean up the space (this is destructive, but the plank was already broken), then laid the new, thinner plank on a bed of adhesive caulking and weighed it down with a bin bag full of water (adapts to the shape). When cured (3 days to ensure a deep cure), pour away the water, then sand the slightly proud new plank down to match the surroundings. After a summer it has gone grey to match the rest and you can't really see it, other than perhaps it looks slightly newer and smoother than the rest :)

If you want to keep the plank intact, you can also try to mask off the surroundings and squeeze as much caulking underneath the lifting plank, then weigh it down and clean up, but the result will probably be not as good.

marioxp:

--- Quote from: SYJetzt on November 29 2022, 06:58 ---I removed the existing caulking with my fein vibrating multitool using a cutter blade like this https://fein.com/de_de/zubehoer/schneidmesser-63903202210/ (You dont need a fein multitool, a simpler and cheaper tool does the job as well).

--- End quote ---

I don't have a fein multitool, I have a Parkside from Lidl that has a different grip and I can't put a fein blade on it. I think bosch might suit me. Although I thought of doing this part of the task with a screwdriver and a scalpel.


--- Quote from: SYJetzt on November 29 2022, 06:58 ---Then i used a carbide saw blade like this https://fein.com/en_uk/accessories/carbide-saw-blade-63502170210/ to sand the flanks of the planks .
--- End quote ---
OK, I have this tool


--- Quote from: SYJetzt on November 29 2022, 06:58 ---To avoid sanding the whole deck after caulking (and reduce the thickness even more) i used masking tape on the wooden surface, applied the caulking with a gun and squeezed it in with a spatula even with the surface.
Then i immediatly removed the masking tape (when caulking was in soft state without a skin!) and let it cure. 

--- End quote ---
Thanks for the advice, that's what I'll do.

marioxp:

--- Quote from: Yngmar on November 29 2022, 09:59 ---Would also recommend TDS-SIS 440. The re-caulking I did with it lasted until the end (of the deck) and it's less fuss and same cost as Sika with primer.
--- End quote ---

I don't know about you, but in Croatia (or Slovenia) TDS-SIS 440 is quite rare and expensive. 592 ml about 36 eur. https://yachtcentershop.com/proizvod/tds-caulk-sis-440/?gclid=CjwKCAjwjtOTBhAvEiwASG4bCFO435UqSnZVq9S9iLKammIjX4sgqXqYcfQGc7PR31EtB6F23lP_0hoCZaUQAvD_BwE

I found Sikaflex 298DC for a good price, about 18 eur and primer about 22 eur https://www.trgovina-kalcer.si/tesnilna-masa-sikaflex-298-fc-600-ml                https://www.trgovina-kalcer.si/prednamaz-sika-primer-290-dc-250-ml



--- Quote from: Yngmar on November 29 2022, 09:59 --- Used a wood chisel to remove the old plank and clean up the space (this is destructive, but the plank was already broken)
--- End quote ---

I hope I won't have any major problems with removing this plank, because one part has come off and is easy to move. But until I start working, I don't know what problems we will encounter.

I don't know how different Sikaflex 290 dc and Sikaflex 298 are, i.e. can I use Sikaflex 290dc to glue this plank.

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