Author Topic: Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?  (Read 2821 times)

FRWL

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Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?
« on: March 17 2022, 13:14 »
Just bought a lovely Cruiser 30 but still getting my head around the Bavaria way of doing things. Right now struggling to operate the anchor winch. ‘Anchor’ switch is on and symbol illuminated at the distribution board, remote correctly plugged in at anchor well, engine running. But dead as a door nail. Nothing from the winch.
Every other sailboat I’ve ever been on has a separate isolation switch for the winch circuit, usually of the plastic ‘turn key’’ variety. I’ve scoured my C30 and can’t find one. There’s one for the engine and one for the 12v system, but nothing I can see for the winch, grateful for any tips!

SYJetzt

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Re: Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?
« Reply #1 on: March 17 2022, 13:30 »
I didn't see any bavaria with a separate isolator switch. There should be a fuse (NH00 Type) next to the battery compartment which  is assigned to the anchor winch. Check if fuse is OK. Check your owners manual, where you should find a schema for your electric system. In my case (B46/2006) the fuse is behind the backrest of the saloon settee.

Keweetoo

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Re: Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?
« Reply #2 on: March 17 2022, 14:19 »
If the boat has not been used for quite a while it could be the terminals on the remote plug/socket need a clean. Check they are bright and clean as necessary. You could also try some electrical cleaning fluid on the socket and if no joy check with a meter there is 12V at the socket.

FRWL

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Re: Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?
« Reply #3 on: March 17 2022, 22:33 »
I didn't see any bavaria with a separate isolator switch. There should be a fuse (NH00 Type) next to the battery compartment which  is assigned to the anchor winch. Check if fuse is OK. Check your owners manual, where you should find a schema for your electric system. In my case (B46/2006) the fuse is behind the backrest of the saloon settee.
Thanks, I did see two ‘electrical boxes’ just above the cranking battery, under the starboard settee. I thought they looked like ‘relays’ but having now looked at images of ‘NH00 fuses’ I think that’s what they are. I’ll have a closer look. At least I know now there’s no separate isolater switch!

FRWL

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Re: Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?
« Reply #4 on: March 17 2022, 22:42 »
If the boat has not been used for quite a while it could be the terminals on the remote plug/socket need a clean. Check they are bright and clean as necessary. You could also try some electrical cleaning fluid on the socket and if no joy check with a meter there is 12V at the socket.
Thanks, I’ll give that a try too. I was so convinced I must’ve missed a hidden isolator switch somewhere I hadn’t got that far down the troubleshooting path yet.

diverphil

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Re: Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?
« Reply #5 on: March 18 2022, 17:47 »
our 33 2006 has 2 fuses near the battery 100amp I think is anchor and the 125amp is for the rest of domestic system( positive bus bar) then each of the separate domestic systems are additionally fused through the breaker switches.

Salty

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Re: Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?
« Reply #6 on: March 24 2022, 03:03 »
Just bought a lovely Cruiser 30 but still getting my head around the Bavaria way of doing things. Right now struggling to operate the anchor winch. ‘Anchor’ switch is on and symbol illuminated at the distribution board, remote correctly plugged in at anchor well, engine running………. Nothing from the winch.
……grateful for any tips!

There was a time when Bavaria used ordinary copper wiring for the circuitry onboard. Copper wiring does not last well in a salt laden atmosphere and having suffered the same problem myself on a Bav 36(2002) back in 2011, its odds on that your boat wiring is suffering from the same problem.

At the time I took out the old copper signal wiring for the remote, all the way from the plug in point in the chain locker back to the windlass solenoid located within the wiring jungle behind the switch board. I cut open the old wire and found that the copper cores were totally corroded all the way from forward to the solenoid. So I purchased a suitable length of new tinned copper cabling and replaced the entire length of signal wire and that solved the problem. It is quite a long and difficult job as the wiring is located behind all of the cupboards, but you can use the old wire to pull the new wire through.

Since then I learned a much simpler and newer trick which was to buy, from Ebay for example, a cheap radio controlled device used for remotely operating a 12 volt electric winch of the type that you might see fitted on a truck or SUV road vehicle. At the time the radio control device cost around £10 in the UK, but are now a little more expensive. Made in China, and possibly elsewhere, and it will operate your windlass from pretty much anywhere onboard that is within 50 feet of the receiver which you have to wire directly to the windlass solenoid.

If you do a search within this forum you will see several instances where this kind of radio control system has been used, and not only for operating the windlass. On the home page there is a search facility in the top right corner of the page, enter your search word, and a whole world of Bavaria yacht information comes up, but remember to do the search from the home page, or all you will get is a search of your latest reply to your search. So looking at the home page, I typed in “Radio control” but without the parenthesis, and then selected the search button and up came all the answers. The second listing was my original posting on this subject going back several years ago and which I dont want to have to type out all over again.

p.s. you might look down your nose at using a cheap radio controller bought from ebay, and instead look at buying a much much more expensive system as manufactured by one of the yachtie windlass manufacturers. Thats your choice, but with respect to those manufacturers and your pocket, they probably both work as well as each other and with the change from buying a cheaper controller you can buy a second to salve your conscience and keep as a spare, and a few more tinnies to stock up the fridge !!

FRWL

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Re: Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?
« Reply #7 on: June 19 2022, 15:02 »
Just came back saw Salty’s last post. Thanks for the time you’ve take, that’s excellent advice and I will look at both those suggestions.  The radio control sounds like a great idea, didn’t know such things existed. Thanks also for the advice on how to better use the forum. Very helpful.

tiger79

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Re: Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?
« Reply #8 on: June 19 2022, 15:15 »


p.s. you might look down your nose at using a cheap radio controller bought from ebay, and instead look at buying a much much more expensive system as manufactured by one of the yachtie windlass manufacturers. Thats your choice, but with respect to those manufacturers and your pocket, they probably both work as well as each other and with the change from buying a cheaper controller you can buy a second to salve your conscience and keep as a spare, and a few more tinnies to stock up the fridge !!

Agree!  I use a cheapo radio remote for my thruster - hundreds of pounds cheaper than the SidePower version!

Salty

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Re: Anchor winch isolator switch on 2006 C30?
« Reply #9 on: June 20 2022, 10:12 »
If the boat has not been used for quite a while it could be the terminals on the remote plug/socket need a clean. Check they are bright and clean as necessary. You could also try some electrical cleaning fluid on the socket and if no joy check with a meter there is 12V at the socket.
Thanks, I’ll give that a try too. I was so convinced I must’ve missed a hidden isolator switch somewhere I hadn’t got that far down the troubleshooting path yet.

When you get your “cheapo radio control Transmitter and receiver,” the receiver needs to be wired directly to the windlass solenoid, but those receiver units have five wires coming out of them with no indication of where they need to connect. Firstly looking at each of those five wires, find the one that has no indication on the end that it needs to be connected to anything - that one is the receiver antenna ! Next look for the red wire, that gets attached to the live output from the windlass on/off switch, look to see where that switched live supply connects to the windlass solenoid, and connect it in to that. The black wire is the 12 volt negative and can connect to a nearby negative bus bar or if you are sure of it to the negative connection on the solenoid. lastly there are two other wires, yellow and white I think, or maybe yellow and grey, and they connect one each to the small connections on the solenoid for the up/ down solenoids, and thats it save for testing the thing to ensure you know which button on the transmitter does the up function and which is for down. You can always secure your anchor but release the clutch so that you can run your windlass without pulling the foredeck off !!