Author Topic: Fitting sheet turning block for asymmetric sail on Bavaria 38 ( 2009-2010)  (Read 2563 times)

Craig

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  • Boat Model: Bavaria 38 Cruiser
  • Boat Year: 2009
Guys,

I've been a bit slack over the last few years and only now getting around to fitting my asymmetric to the boat.

I have the sail, the ATN tacker and sock but just need to rig the sheets. I've used this set up on other boats but not my Bavaria 38.

I was thinking of attaching the block to the aft Cleats using  soft shackles and leading the line back to my aft winches. ( When I bought the boat I had larger Genoa winches fitted and moved the supplied winches back to the aft positions that Bavaria provide.)

If I lead the sheets back to the cleats, the sheets will probably rub against the stantions or the bimini supports.

I'm therefore considering running the sheets back to a turning block attached to the toe rail.

My concern is whether the toe rail can cope with the load, particularly as the force will be almost doubled as the sheet is turned back to the winch. I haven't seen this arrangement on a Bavaria but a number of Jeanneaus seem to have this set up.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Craig
"Shirley Valentine"
Gold Coast
Australia

IslandAlchemy

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I fitted a U bolt into the deck right at the back. Much less messing about in the long-term.

Rampage

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I simply used the cleats as turning blocks to run the sheets back to the genoa winches.  That avoids the pushpit, bimini and guardrails.  I’ve now got soft shackles to attach blocks to the cleats, simply because I’d got the blocks to hand: the difference in handling the sheets isn’t really noticeable but the set up is better for longer downwind sailing.

Symphony

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The layout of cleat/stanchion/winch etc varies according to model of boat. On both my boats (37 and 33) attaching to the cleat with a strop works fine. If there is a convenient space for one that provides a good lead, a U bolt is probably the best solution, but again it will depend on the specific boat. Not sure I would use the toerail for two reasons. First it is only screwed to the deck and secondly drilling would create a point for corrosion and wear. Some other builders use through bolted slotted toe rails that are designed to take attachments.

Trundletruc

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Our cruising chute sheet blocks are fastened to U bolts on the rear side deck, with a bit of bungee cord to a life line to hold them upright. The U bolts are also used for the rear end of our jack stays. The sheet then goes to one of the winches for someone to  grind, at the front of the cockpit (sprayhood down), and then to the trimmer who stands or sits on the windward deck in order to see the chute.
I would certainly not fasten them to the toe rail as it is held with small screws into wood.

AFRiCA

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I think the the best option is to use the aft mooring cleat by securing a turning block with a soft shackle and a length of bungee cord to keep it off the deck. The aft mooring cleat is strongly attached and doesn't require the need to drill extra holes in the deck. I have used this method on my Bavaria 42 for years to run asymmetrical and Code 0's without any issues. Safe and simple   :tbu  :)

Diga

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@ AFRiCA
As I'm considering a asymmetrical for my BABY 42 I'm curious to learn what kind of arrangement you have at the bow of the boat?
Thanks,
Bo

AFRiCA

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@ diga, home made proder with a bob stay for extra strength with a harken endless furler for the Code 0. Only run a Code 0 now, much easier. If you provide me with an email address i will send a couple of photos.

Mirror45184

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Hi Craig,

I use a soft shackle to the aft mooring cleats. I use the halyard winches for trimming the sheets. When running a symmetrical spinnaker, the windward primary is used for the brace/guy, so using the halyard winches for sheets enables the spinnaker to be gybed without juggling winches. The sheet does rub on the pulpit but is not an issue. The asymmetric spinnaker I use is on a top down furler which works very well.

Cheers
Mark Hutton
SV SYnergy
B40 Cruiser 2009

Craig

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Guys,

Thanks for the comments.

I'm fitting the turning blocks to the aft cleats. Just need to experiment with the length of the soft shackles to ensure the lines lead back to the winches at the correct angle.

I've been warned about the hull/deck join at the bow on some Bavaria models, requiring a prodder to be attached to the forestay. I therefore decided to go with the ATN tacker instead of a prodder.

The following is a link to the Youtube clip showing how the ATN Tacker works. They are relatively common in Europe but almost unheard of here in Australia.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zt_G0uVc5iY

Craig
"Shirley Valentine"
Gold Coast
Australia