Author Topic: Bavaria isolation thoughts - Annual Maintenance  (Read 2187 times)

MagicalArmchair

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Bavaria isolation thoughts - Annual Maintenance
« on: April 12 2020, 15:01 »
It was with much guilt, just before the lock down, I put the sails on the spars of Mirage at Cobbs Quay marina (with a view to delivering her back in a couple of weeks time from that point to Chatham) without greasing either the Mainsail furler or the Genoa furler, as I was short on time and the conditions were windless and perfect for getting the sails on.

That got me thinking - what other annual maintenance jobs do you do to keep your Bavaria in good order? The sheaves that run the lines aft, for instance? Do you oil those?

  • Grease Roller furling gear, main and genoa.
  • Service engine, change filters etc.
  • Service saildrive by changing its oil. How often do you change seals?
  • Service fresh water system by empty it at the end of the season, then running Puriclean through it at the start of the season (if required, if its been used over the winter it may not be necessary).
  • Servicing the winches every other year?
  • What do you do to service the seacocks? One of mine, the seacock to the saildrive, is already seized when I bought her. Someone I only noticed it when I launched else I would have sorted when out of the water.

geoff

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Re: Bavaria isolation thoughts - Annual Maintenance
« Reply #1 on: April 12 2020, 16:33 »
For me, engine oil and filters every year. every 7/10 years engine cam belt / tensioner  also saildrive membrane /propshaft seals at the same time. saildrive oil every 2/3 years. exhaust elbow clean and descale every 3/4 years. As for the rest as and when I notice a problem. Geoff

MagicalArmchair

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Re: Bavaria isolation thoughts - Annual Maintenance
« Reply #2 on: April 12 2020, 23:26 »
With regards to the cam belt/tensioner, are there any tells it needs doing or is it simply preventative? Is it something that is straight forwards to do yourself?

Symphony

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Re: Bavaria isolation thoughts - Annual Maintenance
« Reply #3 on: April 13 2020, 00:47 »
This does not apply to your engine unless it is an MD22. The smaller Volvos have chain drive and are mechanically pretty bullet proof. The only weaknesses are water pumps - more poor access than bad design of the pump itself and the well documented bunged up exhaust elbows. Change oil and filter every 150 hours or once a season is really all they need.

Common for the saildrive seacock to seize because most people do not turn it off when the engine is not in use. So seized in open position is common. Given the age of your engine might be worth fitting a new one when next out of the water. The key thing with the saildrive is to check the oil is clear. If it is then really not worth changing frequently unless you do high hours. In typical leisure use the drive is lightly stressed. If the oil does get milky then almost certainly it is failure of the seals on the lower output drive shaft and that does need fixing quickly. Plenty of Youtubes on how to do it. If no signs of water in oil, then don't touch it. However sensible if you do change the diaphragm then change the seals and inspect the shaft and bearings for wear when the drive is out of the boat.

The seacocks are all ball valves which cannot be serviced. They often seize because of lack of use, so best prevention is to operate them frequently and regularly. Weaknesses are usually in the skin fittings and hose tails which are probably, if they are original, plain brass and may suffer dezincification. If you have no record of them having been changed then suggest you do that next haulout - at least give them a bang with a hammer to see if secure in the through hull. Replace with DZR or composite ( Tru Design). Not a cheap job, but worth doing if you intend to keep the boat.

Selden furling gear normally just needs flushing with fresh water, but if signs of stickiness then lubricate as per Selden instructions. In mast furling may need more work if heavily used and subject to lts of salty environment. Likewise winches which in my experience need little maintenance unless heavily used. However if no service history worth stripping down and cleaning. Both Harken and Lewmar have good instructions on this. Worth spraying blocks, organisers etc with PTFE spray. Lots of potential friction points to look at, and maybe worth replacing blocks if worn. Amazing the difference (new) good quality blocks make.

If you have a Lofrans Cayman 88 worth checking the mounting bolts and underneath of windlass for corrosion. Lofrans recommend lifting the windlass every year to check as the mounting pad encourages wetness that leads to galvanic corrosion. Solution is to clean the base of the windlass, prime and paint then bed down onto solid pad such as a piece of chopping board rather than the standard rubber gasket.

Personally I have never bothered draining the domestic water system in the winter. Boat stays in all year round and in Poole have never had freezing except the shower head which on my boat is under pressure all the time. Problem solved by putting stop valves in the hoses to the shower. Equally never had problems with tainted water, perhaps because on both the Bavarias I have owned, I got them new and always ensured a good throughflow of fresh water.

I think a lot of the "winterisation" routine is a hangover from the past  when boats leaked and suffered condensation; materials and systems were poorly designed; engines were seawater cooled and lived in a permanent cloud of salty dampness etc. This is not to say you should neglect the boat, but carry out preventative maintenance, keep things dry and clean and the volume of work reduces. 

Yngmar

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Re: Bavaria isolation thoughts - Annual Maintenance
« Reply #4 on: April 13 2020, 11:49 »
It was with much guilt, just before the lock down, I put the sails on the spars of Mirage at Cobbs Quay marina (with a view to delivering her back in a couple of weeks time from that point to Chatham) without greasing either the Mainsail furler or the Genoa furler, as I was short on time and the conditions were windless and perfect for getting the sails on.

That got me thinking - what other annual maintenance jobs do you do to keep your Bavaria in good order? The sheaves that run the lines aft, for instance? Do you oil those?

  • Grease Roller furling gear, main and genoa.
  • Service engine, change filters etc.
  • Service saildrive by changing its oil. How often do you change seals?
  • Service fresh water system by empty it at the end of the season, then running Puriclean through it at the start of the season (if required, if its been used over the winter it may not be necessary).
  • Servicing the winches every other year?
  • What do you do to service the seacocks? One of mine, the seacock to the saildrive, is already seized when I bought her. Someone I only noticed it when I launched else I would have sorted when out of the water.

Standing rigging: Inspect everything for corrosion, cracks, check pins, spot any obviously wrong tension, grease backstay tensioner (the winch handle operated types), check sealant around chainplates.

Running rigging: Clean ropes, inspect, replace as needed. Make sure all sheaves turn easily.

Furlers: Inspect and grease. Check for wear on furling lines, especially Furlex, where the knot holds it on the drum.

Teak trim: Sand to key and apply a few coats of varnish over the old where worn through or UV damaged.

Teak deck: Throw it in the bin! (Ok, that's on the todo list still). If yours is still worth keeping, re-caulk the seams were needed, cut down the proud ones, clean gently with a soft sponge or cloth and apply anti-fungal agent (mostly needed in cold/wet climates - in the Med we hardly need it anymore).

Sails: Drop and inspect carefully, repair lose/broken/damage stitches. This is key to avoid much more extensive damage later.

Engine: Service as per schedule. MD22: Remove exhaust elbow connector piece, inspect and replace as needed (stainless version available from parts4engines). Check hoses for leaks or crinkling sound when squeezed. Investigate any oil drips you find.

Diesel tank: Pump up the bottom sump and filter out dirt/debris until only clean diesel comes up.

Saildrive: During haulout, replace oil (from bottom drain!), clean and paint. Replace seals. Check shaft for wear on the seal area, Speedi-sleeve if needed. Re-assemble with waterproof grease on splines, Loctite on bolts. Replace anode(s).Flush water channels with mild acid (vinegar, etc). Inspect seacock for galvanic corrosion or difficulty turning.

Interior: Varnish as needed. Clean bilges (lots of dust/crumbs end up in ours, even though I've taped black bin liner under the finger holes).

Paperwork: Renew passports, credit cards, registration, driver licenses, and any other permits/paperwork so it won't expire mid-season. Sort out last years paperwork/invoices and file/bin. Inform insurance of changes in cruising area.

Plumbing: Clean and disinfect freshwater tanks and the whole pump/piping system.

Watermaker: Pickle in autumn, unpickle and replace filters at start of cruising season.

Canvas: Check for worn thread and re-sew as needed. Wash with soap and brush, then apply UV waterproofing.

Stainless: Polish all the things!

Gelcoat: Repair any marks/cracks that go through to the laminate.

Electronics/Computers: Do software updates and make sure everything still works after. Do this at the end of the season so you have time to fix anything that didn't go well. Update charts at beginning of season so they're current. Order the pilot books you need for the new season.

Dinghy: Wash, dry thoroughly and stow.

Winches: Service. Cover when not in use for a while.

Other: Refresh-charge all the NiMh batteries in various things (handheld radio, milk frother, shaver, etc.).


That should keep you busy during winter, and I'm sure I forgot at least half of it :-) Not all of it is strictly done annually, many things depend on use, location and conditions.

For example winches are serviced as needed, which depends not just on how much use they see, but also how much dust, salt and dirt gets in them. Some places have a lot of airborne dust, which means winches need servicing often as the grease turns gunky and abrasive.

Last year we had a bad Meltemi season, which meant it was very warm and often rough and salt-water constantly got sprayed everywhere, instantly drying and leaving vast quantities of salt deposits everywhere, so the stainless rusted like mad and needed a lot more cleaning and polishing. In the Med the UV is high and things need re-caulking more often.

In the UK this was not a problem, but instead we were dealing with green growth on deck and condensation below from moist and cold weather.

So just keep an eye open and notice when something needs doing :)
Sailing Songbird  ⛵️ Bavaria 40 Ocean (2001)

Yngmar

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Re: Bavaria isolation thoughts - Annual Maintenance
« Reply #5 on: April 13 2020, 11:55 »
With regards to the cam belt/tensioner, are there any tells it needs doing or is it simply preventative? Is it something that is straight forwards to do yourself?

Yes, when the idler/tensioner start squirting their grease out they should be replaced. The lubrication will eventually fail and the leaked grease can end up on the belt.

On the MD22 it's not that difficult, although you need to be a careful to not muck up the timing. The Haynes manual has a few good tricks on how to do it without expensive Volvo tools.
Sailing Songbird  ⛵️ Bavaria 40 Ocean (2001)

MagicalArmchair

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Re: Bavaria isolation thoughts - Annual Maintenance
« Reply #6 on: April 13 2020, 16:33 »
Gosh, thank you, that is a treasure trove of information. As for the tensioner, Mirage has a VP D2-55 - so I presume the cam belt and tensioner server does not apply?

When I changed the sail drive oil just after I purchased the boat, I was a bit concerned by how mucky it was (the bung was pretty tricky to undo too for that matter). I suspect it hadn't been done in a number of years. I'll get her home and inspect again - if its milky I may lift mid season, get a scrub done and replace the seals at that point rather than waiting for the autumn... presuming any sailing happens this year of course!!!


Symphony

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Re: Bavaria isolation thoughts - Annual Maintenance
« Reply #7 on: April 13 2020, 23:05 »
Correct. The MD22 was a 1970s design by British Leyland for the Maestro/Montego (remember them?) which was first a petrol then Perkins converted it into a diesel. Belt drive camshafts were the in thing at the time. The D2 55 is a recent (early 2000s) design from Perkins in Japan, primarily used for small tractors and does not have a belt drive camshaft - not sure whether it is chain or gear, but does not require any routine maintenance. The 55 spec is the lowest rated output and has an easy life in a yacht.

Your saildrive oil looks normal, just a bit dirty but does not seem to show signs of water. Changing lower oil seals is not frequent maintenance. If the oil stays clean no need to touch the lower housing. I changed the seals in my old boat at 3000 hours as a precaution before leaving Greece for the UK and there was no sign of wear. Not really a job for a mid season scrub, particularly if you have never done it before. Main cause of seal failure is line getting round the shaft and being drawn into the outer seal causing damage and letting water in. Fitting a rope cutter reduces this possibility - although it is rare anyway.