Remove Teak Decks and Preserve Non-Skid

[tckearney]

My 2000 B42 has similar issues.   Several  places the decking has lifted and squeezes water out when you stand on it.  I have tried removing sections and sticking them back down again, which is quite easy.  Biggest problem is getting the ply that is under the teak dry especially in Scotland.   I have had some success using various types of fixing mediums.     CT1 does the job quite well and being black fills the caulking at the same time.   All Patches I have used this on stayed down.  However they did  start to lift directly around the repair.   I also tried Gorilla glue.  Boy is this messy but it relies on water as a catalyst to start the curing process, so the wet ply actually aided the fixing.  It is absolutely solid.  Problem is the mess, this stuff pours out of the slots between the planks like foam .  It can be cleaned out with a multi tool then caulked with sika or whatever is recommended.   You can’t attempt much area at a time and will need plenty of weights with paper under the weights it will stick the weight otherwise.   I did this three years ago and it is still solid even after Scottish winters .   A really cheap fix the I can’t believe worked but I tried it last year and this spring it’s still down was the cheapest super glue from the pound shop.  Where the deck was lifting I just removed a small section of caulking squired about 6 bottles of the glue under the decking then stood on it for 15 minutes.   Unbelievably it worked. 
I am now looking to the  future to replace with DecKing or Flexi teak (there the same company I believe).   Has anybody done this themselves.  Ive made the template but have seen the outcome of a DIY job on a Westerly and it was terrible.  Any advice would be good

[Borealis]

Then there is hope getting the sika of. It look just really nice sailprincess😊
But if someone have experience with other deck material i would really like to hear from you.

[DaveNZ]

I am considering tackling this job. My plan is to first use a multi-tool to remove the plywood and teak, and then use mechanical abrasion to remove the black adhesive. A thought crossed my mind and that was to use dry ice pellets on the black adhesive in order to make it brittle and break the bond with the fibreglass deck. Does anyone have any thoughts on this approach? Am I likely to damage the fibreglass by applying dry ice to it? I would appreciate any feedback.

[tadej.mezek]

We performed this work and eventually put a new grip and paint. While it was shown caulking can be cleaned my gelcoat was cracked on many places and it would not be nice. Also there were randon holes from screws on certain places for attaching teakdeck at factory.
In cockpit did change teak with flexiteak and overall the boat is now much nicer...

[marioxp]

I recently did recaulking,  I don't consider it a problematic job anymore, you have a lot more teak surface I only have teak in the cockpit, but I think recaulking is still a much easier job than removing the entire teak.

It turned out to me that removing the old caulking compound is not difficult and goes quickly. I mostly used a chisel that I sanded down to be narrow enough to fit in the space between the planks. First, I would make cuts with a knife on the left and right sides, and then remove the old compound from the bottom with a chisel. Each side of the space would be sanded by hand with sandpaper, it's also not difficult and goes quickly.

I used the technique of masking with tape, and removing the tape while the mixture was still fresh. Applying the sika compound turned out to be the hardest part of the job, as I had a manual silicone gun and I got tired quickly. Before removing the tape, I would smooth the compound on the upper side, Sika shrinks minimally, unlike TDS.
At the end, when it dries well, I lightly sand it.

I am satisfied with the results.

You should pay attention to the weather forecast when applying the compound, it must not be humid, and it must not be in direct sunlight either, as bubbles will appear.

I wouldn't suggest heavy sanding, because the wood will turn gray again after a while anyway. It is important to me that the caulking compound remains healthy. I think I destroyed the old caulking compound with teak cleaner (hempel powder), which is too aggressive for caulking compound.