Adding main furling line + clutches or clamcleats - B40 (2001)

[sy_Anniina]

Do You fellow sailors have experience solving similar challenge:

On my Bavaria 40 (2001 vintage) the furling main is currently operated only by a winch handle at the base of the mast. All current rope clutches at coachroof winches are already taken - and the factory-provided manual suggests clutching & coiling main and genoa halyard at mast -> 2 freee clutches at coachroof -> endless reefing line now has free clutches.

Now - I would not want to stretch the sails by having halyards always tight -> I'd like to have the halyards at winch clutches as well.

Selden suggests using CL238 Clamcleats for furling line, but I take one could use original or add more rutgerson cleats / clutches as well.

Has anyone added more clutches or cleats - and if so - how far did the alumininum insert reach / were you able to tap threads or did you have to bolt these through?

BR,

Tommi

[Yngmar]

On my 40 Ocean you can see the extent of the aluminium plate by removing the ceiling panel underneath it. A cheap metal detector (the sort for finding beams/wires/metal struts in walls) will also do the job. The plates are plenty large for 4-6 clutches on each side. A previous owner added a few.

My main halyard has a clutch mounted on the mast just after the exit slot. This makes a lot of sense, as it reduces the length over which the rope can stretch, and you can just ease it there after you're done sailing.

You might also have to add more rope organisers to turn the control lines from the mast foot towards the coachroof clutches. The Rutgerson ones are still available and can be stacked on top of each other by simply using longer bolts. You can stack a 2x organiser on top of the existing 4x one.

[sy_Anniina]

Thanks.. I knew someone had thought of this before.

On the 40 aft-cockpit model the underside of the alu-plate can not be seen, the rear cabin ceiling is a single molded piece and does unfortunately not have removable panels. For the metal detector: You are genius! Even though ebay is my standard chandlery when it comes to led lights, USB chargers, flashlights, paracord... I could not have come about the idea of using these cheap stud/wire/metal detectors.

The Rutgerson organizers I have already figured out where to buy - the remaining challenge is to find out how stuck the stainless screws are after sitting 16 seasons in aluminium threads..., likewise I have practiced splicing and familiarized myself to Selden endless splice instructions..

BR,

Tommi

[Salty]

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................ - the remaining challenge is to find out how stuck the stainless screws are after sitting 16 seasons in aluminium threads.....

BR,

Tommi

On my B36(2002) the stainless screws were stuck to the point where the previous owner broke them both off when attempting to replace a damaged clutch. The remaining ends which had broken off more or less flush with the GRP of the cabin top, defied most attempts at removal or to be drilled out, so it might be worth considering whether to leave the old clutches where they are and just add an extra one at one or other end of the line of clutches.
Good luck with any attempt to remove the old clutches, you'll need it !!

[Holger]

We did the same exercise as drescribed by Yngmar on our 37 (2006). We added one clutch on each side of the companianway (next to the original clutches). When I tried to drill the threads in the aluminium plate I noticed that screws in the rear thread could be tightened well while it was different in the front threads. As you say there is no direct access to the underside of the cabintop. I removed the patches at the ceiling and finally cut out pieces from the inner GRP mold to get some sight and access. It showed that the originally equipped clutches were not properly installed. The clutches were placed too far in the front so that the screws at the front of the clutches were only drilled through the GRP rather than the aluminium plate. It had worked for roughly ten years and may have worked indefinitely. However, I secured these screws with washers and nuts. Using the small holes (one on each side) I had cut into the inner mold was quite fiddly but with some patience it worked.

At our boat it was no problem to remove the screws of the Rutgerson deck organisers after almost ten years (the boat has seen salt water only occasionally which may make a difference). It took some time to find a supplier for longer proper stainless steel screws. 

As regards the endless splice: If you use the technique shown by Seldén it is not a big issue. The splicing area is fairly limited. There is a different technique shown by Gleistein (http://www.gleistein.com/assets/download_pdfs_images/Kataloge/Splicebook-engl-Dec-2014-web.pdf). The splicing area is a lot longer and it was far more difficult for me to get to proper results. However, having tried both techniques the Gleistein technique appears to provide better results as the line will have the same diameter throughout its whole length while using the other technique I had one area which was thicker than the rest. However, I have tested both and both worked. In any event you should really properly milk the cover. If it is not properly milked it may pile up which may cause issues at the clutches or the winch at the mast at times you do not need such issues.

Best regards Holger

[Salty]

On my B36(2002) the stainless screws were stuck to the point where the previous owner broke them both off when attempting to replace a damaged clutch. The remaining ends which had broken off more or less flush with the GRP of the cabin top, defied most attempts at removal or to be drilled out,......

With very careful use of a flat file I was able to make a flat area in the otherwise pointed tops of the bolt remnants, then using a centre punch first I was able to get a thin drill down and through each of the two pieces of broken off bolt. The holes were then enlarged with successively larger drills until I was able to knock out the remaining pieces of bolt.

In drilling and knocking out the remains of the two original clutch mounting bolts, the original holes and tapped threads had been damaged such that new bolts alone could not be used. To remedy this situation I made up a mild steel jig with with two holes in it at the right distance apart for the clutch bolts but of a size suitable for taking a rivet nut, and with a third hole to locate a separate bolt. The jig was located onto the cabin top where it was placed alongside the existing clutches, and the third hole for the separate bolt was drilled down through the GRP of the cabin top and into the embedded aluminium plate. This new hole was tapped with a metric thread to suit the bolt I intended to use to hold the jig accurately in place. Once the jig had been secured, I then selected the appropriate drill for the rivet nuts, drilled through each of the two remaining holes in the jig and down through the GRP and into the embedded aluminium plate where the original clutch mounting bolts had been fitted.

With the holes cleaned up and the jig removed, I filled the third hole with gelcoat, then fitted the rivet nuts and finally bolted a new replacement clutch into place.

The new clutch has been in place for one year, and is showing no signs of wanting to move.

[sy_Anniina]

Thanks for all the help - the mod is now complete and tested during our 600NM 3wk summer sail.

Most important learnings briefly summarized:

• Organizer screws were not too badly stuck, maybe due to low salinity in Baltic sea: only moderate use of impact driver was enough to release the screws
• New bolts for the organizer are hard to find if you want round penny head bolts 8 x 80mm 316 grade
• Clamcleats work fine, were easy to install (mariginally more narrow than Rutgerson jammers)
• Reefing from cockpit works as a dream!
• Still sometimes roll in the sail from the mast, seems to be easier to avoid wrinkles in sail while you can manually pull down the lower leech

BR,

Tommi