Breakdown and failure survey - please contribute

[Impavidus]

Hi all. I am going to write an article for the BOA on breakdowns and failures, and how to fix them. I will publish it on this forum too. I would like some help compiling the statistics/information. To this end could I ask you take 5 mins to look at the information below and briefly tell what has failed or been a problem on your boat. The list below does not cover everything but covers most of the things we know about or are sometimes an issue or not.  Once I have done this I am hoping to produce some logic/process charts to help Bavaria owners fault diagnose problems and repair them, or point them in the right direction to maintain their boat to prevent things becoming an issue. I will cover rigging sails and possibly electronics an in another survey.  Could you just post the number and the letter(s) I will be able to take the data and run it through. EG (1) a b f g. (2) a f g, and so on. I do not believe that anything like this has been done before for any make of boat it could be really helpful to all Bavaria owners.
Many thanks. Ant

(1) Water ingress (fresh)
a.   Leaking port-light
b.   Leaking window (fixed)
c.   Leaking stanchion(s)
d.   Leaking hatch
e.   Leaking deck fitting (structural)
f.   Leaking chain plates
g.   Leaking cable gland
h.   Leaking toe rail
i.   Leaking  fresh water pump (domestic)
j.   Leaking hot water pipes
k.   Leaking cold water pipes
l.   Leaking calorifier (hot water tank)
m.   Shower tray or pipework
n.   Sink or pipework
o.   Other (please specify)
(2) Water ingress (salt)
a.   Shaft  water seal  (shaft drive)
b.   Bellows gasket (sail drive)
c.   Through hull fitting (below the water line)
d.   Raw water pump (gasket/plate)
e.   Raw water pump (seals)
f.   Raw water anti syphon valve (leaks to engine bay)
g.   Raw water anti syphon valve (leaks into engine)
h.   Keel bolts
i.   Exhaust leaking (Volvo type exhaust)
j.   Rudder stock or bearing
k.   Other (please specify)
(3) Engine not starting
a.   Battery flat (or battery problem)
b.   Starter jammed
c.   Starter solenoid failed
d.   Starter solenoid activation cable corroded
e.   Run out of diesel
f.   Air in diesel
g.   Heaters (glow plugs) not working 
h.   Fuse failure
i.   Relay failure
j.   Injection pump solenoid failed
(4) Engine running poorly
a.   Air in diesel
b.   Water in diesel (filler cap O ring perished)
c.   Water in diesel (bad fuel)
d.   Water in diesel (condensation)
e.   Blocked filters (diesel bug)
f.   Air in diesel lines (Leak on vacuum side)
g.   Air in diesel (Fuel pump diaphragm hole)
h.   Lack of Diesel (Tap blocked by debris)
i.   Lack of Diesel (other) please specify.
j.   Poor combustion (clogged air filter/s)
k.   Poor combustion (clogged exhaust elbow)
l.   Poor combustion (timing or pump)
m.   Poor combustion  (injectors)
n.   Poor combustion  (valves or compression)
o.   Poor combustion  (other) please specify
(5) Over heating
a.   Blocked drive leg or water inlet
b.   Blocked raw water filter
c.   Blocked pump or pipework
d.   Blocked heat exchanger
e.   Blocked injection elbow (water inlet not exhaust)
f.   Blocked heat exchanger (fresh water matrix)
g.   Faulty thermostat
h.   Header tank too low
i.   Air locks to fresh water cooling
j.   Sludge or constricted water galleries
k.   Heat exchanger leaks to salt water side (blows water out header tank)
l.   Overheating other (please specify). 
(6) Gearbox problems
a.   Failure will not drive
b.   Failure will not come out of drive
c.   Difficult to engage
d.   Difficult to disengage
e.   Dog clutch or drive plate failed
f.   Other (please specify)
(7) Shaft drive
a.   Poor alignment (or keeps going out of alignment)
b.   Shaft seal failure (not leaking)
c.   Drive shaft coupling (shear pin or bolts)
d.   Cutlass bearing  (vibration or out of alignment)
e.   Cutlass bearing  (spinning or stuck in)
f.   Other (please specify)
(8) Sail Drive
a.   Failure will not drive
b.   Failure will not come out of drive
c.   Difficult to engage
d.   Difficult to disengage
e.   Dog clutch or drive plate failed
f.   Bearing failure (loud grumble when in gear)
g.   Seal failure (water in oil)
h.   Bellows gasket failed
i.   Bellows gasket leaking
j.   Prop cush drive failure (bonded rubber fails and prop comes off or causes excessive vibration)
k.   Oil leaks
l.   Other (Please specify)
(9) Batteries and Electrical
a.   Mains breaker fails or keeps shutting off
b.   Main board polarity light flashing or on constantly
c.   Charger fails (stops charging)
d.   Charger fails (over charging)
e.   Alternator fails (not charging)
f.   Alternator (overcharging)
g.   Batteries not holding charge (go flat in short time on low loads)
h.   Battery low voltage (less than 11 volt)
i.   Fridge not cooling
j.   Fridge over cooling (constantly ices up)
k.   Fridge temperature not constant
l.   Fridge thermostat (fail)
m.   Water Pump (cycles) when not in use
n.   Water pump fails (electrical not leaking)
o.   Nav lights fail (other than bulb)
p.   Interior lights fail (other than bulb)
q.   Water tank level fails or shows empty when full
r.   Holding tank level shows empty when full
s.   Holding tank level shows full when empty
t.   Shower pump fails (other than leaking)
u.   Other (please specify)
(10) Doors and Handles
a.   Cabin door handle will not lock
b.   Cabin door locked will not open
c.   Cabin door broken Handle (comes off)
d.   Cabin door hinges (fail)
e.   Cupboard door will not open (push catch)
f.   Cupboard door will not close or stay closed
g.   Cupboard door push catch comes undone or fails
h.   Cupboard door sprung hinge fails
i.   Draw lock will not open (push catch)
j.   Draw lock will not close (push catch)
k.   Draw lock push catch comes undone or fails
l.   Companion way door hinge fails (or seizes up)
m.   Companion way door lock fails (in locked or un-locked position)
n.   Wash board doors lock fails (or seizes up)
o.   Wash board doors lock fails (in locked or un-locked position)

[Yngmar]

Sounds interesting. Thanks for doing this data gathering. Hope you'll get enough for a useful statistic. I'll start:

Bavaria 40 Ocean (2001)

1c) all stanchions leaked due to failed sealant (clear silicone)
1h) teak toe rail leaked due to shrinking/detached sealant (black caulking)
2e) MD22L-B raw water pump rear seals leaked and sprayed saltwater over engien and starter motor
4e) black gunk in diesel - filters thick with it but engine kept running
5a) blocked saildrive intake channels in leg (mussels growing inside from disuse)
8g) seals replaced
9i) fridge electronics dead, later refrigerant evacuated and recharged due to blockages
9q) contacts corroded
10e) corrosion - replaced

[Kibo]

Hi Ant, sounds like a long project, good luck with it

Bavaria Vision 46 2014
1a port light above the galley area, fixed with new seal
2c thru hull fitting leaked in forward head inlet
2k raw water leak from Genset heat exchanger failure
10a cabin door lock handle holding spring failed so door does not stay shut in a seaway, fixed with new spring

[sy_Anniina]

Great data gathering project:

Bavaria 40 AC, 3cab (2001) my findings during my first two seasons

1 jk poorly installed new faucets by dealer
2 fk anchor box repair made by p.o. leaked around from anchor box exit holes
5 l - raw water filter seal allowed air to leak into system -> no raw water flow
9 hu - one battery "exploded" - plastic cover cracked due to internal fault / pressure + fresh water pump intermittently stuck if not used + inverter (sinergex pure sine) goes down to power-save mode even if set up not to do that
10 o - key broke inside lock (open position)

BR,

Tommi
s/y Anniina

[Mirror45184]

B 40 Cruiser 2009
1 b resealed but ongoing when hard pressed and these are underwater
1 h love tap from a Sydney 38!
3 a, just pushing my luck with old battery!
4 k, normal operation according to diesel mechanic. Apparently we sailors do not run our engines hard enough to burn off deposits!
9 q, just accepted that this is an ongoing fault. Had the same issue with a B 30 cruiser 2007

[Symphony]

2001 37, sold 2015. Chartered until 2008 so have not captured everything, but mostly in that period minor electrical issues, nothing major. below are items I directly dealt with 2008-15

1a Portlights leaking, mainly in severe weather
1c all stanchions loose, one at least leaked a bit. Worst design bases I have ever come across
1k cold water feed into calorifier split
1o Forward water tank split, replaced with SS one custom made

8a saildrive failed - not unconnected to 7 years chartering new 130 drive fitted

9f alternator rebuilt
9n water pump bearings seized new pump fitted
9q forward tank sender did not work, aft tank OK

2015 B33

Nothing to report yet except some issues with Garmin instruments fixed under warranty

[Lyra]

1 c or h or both - not sure yet
1 i - not the pump itself, but the filter attached to its input. Disassemble and clean
2 i - silencer SS end caps corroded. replaced with Vetus plastic type
3 i - relay OK but relay tabs got "filed away" in the sockets due to the vibration of the engine. replaced and put a "shim" between relay top an box cover to prevent movement. As a first aid - if you have a soldering iron - spread some solder on the damaged tab.
3 - no item for this - lift pump not working and no diesel is flowing to the injection pump. Reason - debris in lift pump valves/diaphragm
4 e
4 k
6 f - actually not gearbox itself but broken link at throttle. It is a plastic link. Unfortunately it will probably break during maneuver due to an abrupt shift from reverse to forward (or vice versa). The result is that the boat will continue to move fast(er) to the last direction.
8 g - from a single encounter with a fishing line
9 c - blown charger output fuse
9 e - faulty regulator
9 g - old battery
9 o - corroded wires. This is an overall problem with older models where they used non tinned wires. Problem even with wires inside cabin and obviously for outside wires.

I would move some fresh water issues (such as 1i) from "water ingress"  section to a new section that I would call "fresh water system" that would include all possible problem with it (technically these are not ingress related because the fresh water system is internal). Also for example 9m is not really an electrical problem but a problem with the fresh water system itself.
Some things to add:
Shower not draining (pump is OK) - Clogged filter
Holding tank not draining (and we know that toilet paper was never thrown to the bowl) - reason: calcification (urine+seawater). calcium deposits on the tank walls break down and clog the outlet pipe. Better to do preventive maintenance by pouring periodically vinegar or toilet cleaning stuff. If it happens - opening port on deck to prevent over pressure and short bursts of back wash by inserting water hose to throughull

[Sen Mora]

Hi,
BAV 41 (2003)

1d. Lewmar gasket ($$) to replace
1h.
1o. leak through aft fairlead, removed, resealed and refastened
1o. any water under shower module nearly impossible to access for removal (had to drill a hole in p/s shower sump )
2h. minimal amount when sailing hard
3h.
4o. Injector pump leak on high pressure side of cyl 3&4. Pump reconditioned ok now.
5l. Exhaust elbow coroded (sea water restriction and corosion of heat exchanger next to elbow - major problem $$$)
8c.
9c. Had to be replaced
9e. Brg seized, replaced, 2 other diode bridge failures - rebuilt
10e.

Best regards

[nightowle]

1999 B35e

10 a)

Also, fixed by PO just prior to listing for sale in 2016: failed rudder post fixed with installation of new rudder and assembly (US $15k).  Information on what to look for so there's no repeat would be helpful as this seems to be a common failure with Bav's.

[Symphony]

Not sure a failed rudder post - assume you mean what we call a stock = is particularly common. gearings seizing, usually the lower one is more common - and not just with Bavaria as that design was widely used at the time. Symptoms are increasingly stiff steering which could lead to scoring of the stock which is aluminium, although usually it is corrosion in the bearing housing that is the big problem. Rudder blades are prone to osmosis and also cracks that can lead to water absorption in the core of the rudder.

If the boat was unlucky enough to have all of these problems, which are not too difficult to deal with individually, it may well be more effective to replace the whole rudder and bearing system rather than repair.

[Craig]

Bav 38 launched Feb 2010.

1j. replaced plastic connector at hot water outlet on tank.
1L. Heat exchanger in tank failed. replaced tank with Quick tank.
2i. Volvo wet exchaust corroded metal fittings. replaced with Vetus, all plastic system.
4h. Diesel Bug in Europe blocked on/off switch. Now have clear plastic in line strainer to stop lumpy bits clogging fuel off/on tap.

Also,
Now on third Auto-helm. Replaced by Lewmar under warranty. Faulty clutch mechanism.
On third radio, replaced by Raymarine under warranty as set not holding MMSI number. All Ok now.
Replaced Anchor Windlass as it corroded out under the base, chain caught and ripped the gears out when chain stripper fell apart.

Only Bavaria part to fail was the insulation inside the refrigerator lid fell off. Glued back on.

Craig
" Shirley Valentine"
Gold Coast
Australia

[IslandAlchemy]

Here you go.

1) Water ingress (fresh)
a.   Leaking portlight - just cleaned the seals, put some hand cream on them, and tapped-up the tangs.
c.   Leaking stanchion(s) - a few with woobly loose screws.
d.   Leaking hatch - Just due to use, age, UV, and wear.
e.   Leaking deck fitting (structural) - All fixed in with silicone which broke down under UV
h.   Leaking toe rail - hall/deck seal leak under toe rail due to a gap in the sealeant when built
i.   Leaking  fresh water pump (domestic) - currently dripping
j.   Leaking hot water pipes - leak from pipe fitting at calorifier - replaced pipe fitting
(2) Water ingress (salt)
a.   Shaft  water seal  (shaft drive) - just got old (13 years).
e.   Raw water pump (seals) - just throug age and use
(3) Engine not starting
d.   Starter solenoid activation cable corroded - connector
(4) Engine running poorly
a.   Air in diesel - usually CAV filter
e.   Blocked filters (diesel bug)
(6) Gearbox problems
f.   Other (please specify) - noisy damper plate (Hurth gearbox)
(9) Batteries and Electrical
c.   Charger fails (stops charging)
i.   Fridge not cooling
p.   Interior lights fail (other than bulb) - knackered switches
q.   Water tank level fails or shows empty when full - 1 does

[willfinch36]

2007 Bavaria 37 which I have owned from Jan 2014.

1 - C & G
9 - I  & L
10 - E

[tiger79]

2014 Cruiser 37, owned from new.

9s - I've unplugged the sender unit.

[Scorcher IV]

2006 Bavaria 37 Owned two years.
4. m
5. a, e
6. c (cable replaced)
9. i, l, u (calorifier thermostat fail)
10. a, o

[Craig]

Not mentioned in my above post also had following issues
1. salt water pump on engine had leaking seal on shaft. fixed easily
2. Oil leaks from Sump, timing cover of Volvo D1-30.
3. hinge on cupboard over stove corroded by salt when window left open,
4. Stove - oven door latch broken. rusty grid and fiddles on top of stove.

[nightowle]

Not sure a failed rudder post - assume you mean what we call a stock = is particularly common. gearings seizing, usually the lower one is more common - and not just with Bavaria as that design was widely used at the time. Symptoms are increasingly stiff steering which could lead to scoring of the stock which is aluminium, although usually it is corrosion in the bearing housing that is the big problem. Rudder blades are prone to osmosis and also cracks that can lead to water absorption in the core of the rudder.

If the boat was unlucky enough to have all of these problems, which are not too difficult to deal with individually, it may well be more effective to replace the whole rudder and bearing system rather than repair.

I believe that was the full scope of the problem.  We never spoke directly to the previous owners, but did get some info from the yard that did the repair and replacement with a Jeffa rudder.  The new one apparently has some upgrades to the quality of the bearing and/or housing that is more compatible with the aluminum stock.

[Impavidus]

Many thanks to everyone who has contributed so far. Yngmar, ditto to most of yours on my old boat. Tiger, Ditto on my new boat. Craig Ditto both my Bavaria's.  Bob yes. All known issues that come up. But still a lovely capable boat in 45 knots of wind? Shirley, Humm this keeps coming up. Scorcher IV, again same old same old. Symphony, thanks for that good input. Every one else, I thank you for your input, its bringing up just the data we need as a forum and Bavaria owners.

Guests and others. Dont just read this! Please contribute. There is a lot of data and info in this forum from every level of ownership, ability and experience.

Best regards.

Ant

     

[Fenders]

For Bavaria 32 2004

(1) Water ingress (fresh)
         e.   Leaking deck fitting (structural)
4) Engine running poorly
         b.   Water in diesel (filler cap O ring perished)

[Salty]

Many thanks to everyone who has contributed so far.
.
.
Guests and others. Dont just read this! Please contribute. There is a lot of data and info in this forum from every level of ownership, ability and experience.

Best regards.

Ant

   

Hi Ant, just gathering it all together, and as follows:-
Bavaria 36 2002

1a leaking port light seal - fixed with a smear of Vaseline.
1c all stanchion bases re-sealed, and hands cut off any visitor that uses the stanchions to haul themselves onboard.
1i leaking pump diaphragm
1o leaking F.W. Pump filter (two parts don't fit together very well)

2b  no actual problem, but changed after 9yrs and found perfect
2e raw water pump seal small leak and was changed.
2i exhaust silencer s.s. Ends corroded - changed for all plastic £58 silencer almost one year ago and all ok now.
2j no leakage, but rudder bearing changed after heavy vibrations which now stopped.

3a original starter battery not holding charge and changed after 14 years.
Extra point 3k engine starter push button collapsed and a new starter button fitted which works ok.

4h Lack of diesel - forgot to open fuel valve, but it allowed diesel fuel to pass through but not enough for much more than 2000rpm but for at least three hours

5a saildrive waterway partially blocked by mussel shells
5d heat exchanger seawater inlet end blocked by previous owners pump impeller blades and mussel shells
(5k - should this read Heat exchanger leaks FROM salt water side to FW (blows water out of header tank)
5l see 5f poor design of raw water filter allowed mussel shells to pass thro filter and pump to lodge in entrance to heat exchanger.

8d saildrive difficult to disengage - suspect problem with morse control.
8g milky oil in sail drive at 1st change after buying boat in 2010. Shaft seal changed and no further problem.

9e alternator not charging after work done on 2b where yard mechanic incorrectly connected alternator wires to wrong terminals.
9i fridge not cooling 1. due poor insulation and later 2. Due to loss of refrigerant where pipe chafed against woodwork. Insulation improved but still work in progress, and recharged refrigerant gas and re-routed the pipe to avoid chafe.
9o steaming and tricolour lights not lighting due to corrosion on original ordinary copper wire cabling.
9q water tank level gauge fails. Happened six years ago, and just ignored.

10f two new cupboard door push button  latches fitted where the originals failed.

Plenty more stuff for next set of survey questions.
Regards
Salty

[Impavidus]

This is great so much data and it's forming some patterns!!

Ant.

[Salty]

Hi Ant,

Did you complete the article you were doing for BOA at the start of this thread, cos you mentioned about publishing it on this forum too?

[SofiaB]

Ant,  I "met" you on Bavaria's Facebook, then viewed your Facebook and looked at some of your videos.  I also copied your post and downloaded your photos with your car modifications; that is in the top 10 upgrades this year on my Vision 46.  I hope you keep posting; I really appreciate your efforts to assist Bavaria owners.

I purchased my Vision 46 in 2015 at the Annapolis boat show and commissioned it in May/June 2016.  Had lots of minor leaking issues that i mostly resolved and many other commissioning issues.  Bavaria Yachts USA did a good job, but was not supported by Bavaria Yachtbau who "fired" them leaving me "out there".  My marina fixed many issues and were ultimately not paid.  I then started paying them and I wasn't reimbursed.  Bavaria Yachtbau took no responsibility for the warranty even though my contract specifically states the warranty an indicates their responsibility.  Bavaria Yachtbau has provided a few parts under warranty only a few hundred when my invoices for labor/parts totaled over $15,000. 

Because I'm basically on my own with this boat, I truly appreciate your efforts!  To assist with this post, the following are issues I have had:

(1) Water ingress (fresh)
c.   Leaking stanchion(s)   Rain water leaking water between the chainplates into the encapsulated cover area.  Found out when buffing the cover and water shot out.  Removed calk around the bottom of the cover area to allow it to drain, dry out over winter and calked to seal.  Bavaria did provide specs on correct calk, but did not provide the calk for the repair.
o.   Other (please specify) 
o1. Rain water leaking Cleat thru bolt (incomplete calk).  Cleat bolt cross threaded, cut off, reseated.  If not cross threaded, would have been a 15 min fix.
02.  All water drains leaked.  All were under-torqued consistently.  Each connection does have two hose clamps but many were pulled away from the connection fitting.  Every hose clamp had to be tightened after reconnecting.  Sucked out hundreds of gallons of water from the bilges until all connections on the boat were located.
03.  A/C condensor collection box failures/leaks - Overflowed due to pump failures.  Replaced entire box and pumps.  New pumps often do not come on or get a "bubble" and stay on but don't pump out the water.
04.  Webasto drain pain has four outlets.  Bavaria used one even though manual states that at minimum 2 must be connected on port/SB sides.  Oops.  Added new drain pipes on opposite sides to allow water to drain.  I like dry bilges.
05.  Aft hatch leaking due to bent locking pin.  Bavaria replaced the locking mechanism.  Found nut was cross-threaded.  No leaks now.


(2) Water ingress (salt)
k.   Other (please specify)  None.

(3) Engine not starting
a.   Battery flat (or battery problem)   Starter batter was indicated as isolated, but manual does no indicate how.  I though it was automatic or permanent, but found out the hard way that unless the Switch is set to off (under the galley sink), it is part of the house bank.  Volvo D2-55 will not turn over if starter is below 12.5V.  Now, we simply isolate immediately by turning off the switch once at anchor.

(4) Engine running poorly
o.  Other (please specify)  No issues whatsoever with the Volvo D2-55; quiet, perfect operation.  But only have 150hrs.

(5) Over heating
l.   Overheating other (please specify)  No issues.

(6) Gearbox problems
f.   Other (please specify)  No issues.

(8) Sail Drive
l.   Other (Please specify)  No issues.

(9) Batteries and Electrical
a.   Mains breaker fails or keeps shutting off   Happened daily for first 60-90 days.  50% of the 110V wiring at the outlets were incorrectly wired.  Didn't trip all the time; based on wattage of the appliance used.  AC mains tripped also.  Bavaria USA claimed all wiring issues were shore power.  My marina fixed all issues, paid for by ME!
j.   Fridge over cooling (constantly ices up)  Occurs constantly; must turn off every 15 - 30 days even if there is no water is at the bottom (no drains).  This is my wife's biggest complaint; constantly cleaning out the freezer.
u.   Other (please specify)


(10) Doors and Handles
f.   Cupboard door will not close or stay closed   Two doors constantly open in heavy seas.  Not sure how to fix!
k.   Draw lock push catch comes undone or fails  Same lock push catch on doors; one drawer constantly comes open under heavy seas.  Not sure how to fix.
o.   Wash board doors lock fails (in locked or un-locked position)   Replaced with teak doors, replaced original wash boards to eliminate the keyed one.  Now beautiful with use of hinged doors and can still use the washboards in very heavy seas.


Added:
11)  A/C (Webasto) issues
a.  Forward cabin temp sensor location too close to return vent and too low causing A/C to turn off almost immediately even though temp is high.  Relocated sensor and this fixed the issue.
b.  Main cabin had on only two vents causing E2 alarm (frost buildup/too cold error).  Webasto manual states minimum of 3 but recommends 4.  Webasto service technicians diagnosed the issue (I called them when Bavaria failed to assist) and they corrected the issue even though it was not their issue (high praise for Webasto!!).  I did not want to install a fourth due to loss of stowage under the settee. 
c.  Aft cabin had only one vent causing a hurricane sound in the aft cabin.  Velocity so high guests could not sleep in there!  Webasto manual indicated 2 minimum, recommended 3.  Webasto service installed a second; really no way to add a third.

12)  Head issues
a.  Return waste from storage tank into toilet.  Added a one way valve to correct the issue. 
b.  Electric button switch cover fell off. 
c.  Toilet too small for an adult.  Will be replacing the toilet with a Raritan Elegance model with Smart Toilet Control L480 (for fresh & sea water control).

13)  Design Issues / Safety Issues
a.  Forestay plate on bow cuts mooring lines and if only one is attached, sends your boat afloat!  Top of plate has a gap and the machined edge is so sharp it cut a new mooring line in less than 10 minutes.  Bavaria claims this was my fault.  Okay!  Debured / re-machined plate, filled gap, new bridle system with PVC chafe guards...  Now that I know of the design issue, (my issue) resolved.


Again, thanks!  Hope this info helps and sorry for the rant over the new boat issues.  But, love the boat and now that most issues are resolved, we can't want to start the next season (North Channel / Georgian Bay this year). 

If you have a parts list for your car modifications, I would love to see that list!  Need to fire up my machine shop for this one.

Thanks again,

Stuart

[Bobb]

Joining the chorus: this is a great idea. Though trying to organize the information seems daunting .. by year/model, engine type, etc. So many variations and then later modifications. Makes my head spin! I also thought some prose summary would also be useful if indexed somehow .. bought in following situation, found these problems, resolved them this way, etc., etc.

Ok ..

Bought Sympatheia (formerly Freya) in Vancouver in 2017. Used by a club as charter boat, was well used (over 3000 hrs) but seemed to run well and was in very good interior shape. Main issue on testing was pull of rudder while under motor, increasing with RPM. I posted here and no one seemed to have any similar issues.

On haul out the rudder was tight with no side or vertical play. Had the yard bypass the raw inlet in the saildrive foot and put in a separate thru-hull so as to avoid problem of marine growth in the saildrive causing overheating.

After purchase (complicated to get from Canada to US!) and as i took possession, it immediately overheated after being run for just a few minutes (berth to fuel dock). Fortunately there was a yard able to work on Volvos, and the found the heat exchanger was clear but the elbow was blocked. Replaced that and she's been fine. But still pulls under motor. Oddly, there was nothing in the raw water filter to suggest problems further up line, so this is still a mystery.

One other problem surfaced some months later when after pumping the waste water tank out i wanted to rinse it thoroughly to see if i could get the sender to work properly (it was stuck to "ON" due, most likely, to detritus conducting sensing current). After filling it up completely and opening the exit valve, nothing happened. The bottom of the tank had accumulated enough calcified junk that the exit was blocked. I managed to run a small diameter tube up from the through-hull and through the blockage, which broke the crud and allowed the tank to empty.
 
To fix the sender, I bypassed it (disconnected the wires) and taped a strip of bright LED lights to the side of the tank. An in-line button switch turns it on  and shows level of waste in the tank.

So:

5(l) - blocked elbow on raw water
9(s) - fudged by using LED strip light

Rudder - Other: pulls to either side (starboard most strongly) when under motor, speed dependent

[Yngmar]

I've stickied this thread and changed the subject slightly.