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Breakdown and failure survey - please contribute

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Symphony:
2001 37, sold 2015. Chartered until 2008 so have not captured everything, but mostly in that period minor electrical issues, nothing major. below are items I directly dealt with 2008-15

1a Portlights leaking, mainly in severe weather
1c all stanchions loose, one at least leaked a bit. Worst design bases I have ever come across
1k cold water feed into calorifier split
1o Forward water tank split, replaced with SS one custom made

8a saildrive failed - not unconnected to 7 years chartering new 130 drive fitted

9f alternator rebuilt
9n water pump bearings seized new pump fitted
9q forward tank sender did not work, aft tank OK

2015 B33

Nothing to report yet except some issues with Garmin instruments fixed under warranty

Lyra:
1 c or h or both - not sure yet
1 i - not the pump itself, but the filter attached to its input. Disassemble and clean
2 i - silencer SS end caps corroded. replaced with Vetus plastic type
3 i - relay OK but relay tabs got "filed away" in the sockets due to the vibration of the engine. replaced and put a "shim" between relay top an box cover to prevent movement. As a first aid - if you have a soldering iron - spread some solder on the damaged tab.
3 - no item for this - lift pump not working and no diesel is flowing to the injection pump. Reason - debris in lift pump valves/diaphragm
4 e
4 k
6 f - actually not gearbox itself but broken link at throttle. It is a plastic link. Unfortunately it will probably break during maneuver due to an abrupt shift from reverse to forward (or vice versa). The result is that the boat will continue to move fast(er) to the last direction.
8 g - from a single encounter with a fishing line
9 c - blown charger output fuse
9 e - faulty regulator
9 g - old battery
9 o - corroded wires. This is an overall problem with older models where they used non tinned wires. Problem even with wires inside cabin and obviously for outside wires.

I would move some fresh water issues (such as 1i) from "water ingress"  section to a new section that I would call "fresh water system" that would include all possible problem with it (technically these are not ingress related because the fresh water system is internal). Also for example 9m is not really an electrical problem but a problem with the fresh water system itself.
Some things to add:
Shower not draining (pump is OK) - Clogged filter
Holding tank not draining (and we know that toilet paper was never thrown to the bowl) - reason: calcification (urine+seawater). calcium deposits on the tank walls break down and clog the outlet pipe. Better to do preventive maintenance by pouring periodically vinegar or toilet cleaning stuff. If it happens - opening port on deck to prevent over pressure and short bursts of back wash by inserting water hose to throughull

Sen Mora:
Hi,
BAV 41 (2003)

1d. Lewmar gasket ($$) to replace
1h.
1o. leak through aft fairlead, removed, resealed and refastened
1o. any water under shower module nearly impossible to access for removal (had to drill a hole in p/s shower sump )
2h. minimal amount when sailing hard
3h.
4o. Injector pump leak on high pressure side of cyl 3&4. Pump reconditioned ok now.
5l. Exhaust elbow coroded (sea water restriction and corosion of heat exchanger next to elbow - major problem $$$)
8c.
9c. Had to be replaced
9e. Brg seized, replaced, 2 other diode bridge failures - rebuilt
10e.

Best regards

nightowle:
1999 B35e

10 a)

Also, fixed by PO just prior to listing for sale in 2016: failed rudder post fixed with installation of new rudder and assembly (US $15k).  Information on what to look for so there's no repeat would be helpful as this seems to be a common failure with Bav's.

Symphony:
Not sure a failed rudder post - assume you mean what we call a stock = is particularly common. gearings seizing, usually the lower one is more common - and not just with Bavaria as that design was widely used at the time. Symptoms are increasingly stiff steering which could lead to scoring of the stock which is aluminium, although usually it is corrosion in the bearing housing that is the big problem. Rudder blades are prone to osmosis and also cracks that can lead to water absorption in the core of the rudder.

If the boat was unlucky enough to have all of these problems, which are not too difficult to deal with individually, it may well be more effective to replace the whole rudder and bearing system rather than repair.

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