Configuration

[Vinnie45]

I have a 2007 Bavaria 30 without a traveler . I had an instructor tell me that the lines were configured wrong . Right now I have a triangle that brings the boom into place whereas the end of the triangle is dead headed on the deck . On the other side it has a block and tackle on the deck going to the boom , the person told me I should another block on the other side and dead head into the boom . Does anyone have this configuration . Thank you

[MarkTheBike]

Doesn't sound familiar, Vinnie; have you got any photos?

[Vinnie45]

How do I attach the photos

[Craig]

Do you have a vang? If so, at least your downwind sailing should be OK. Just keep on vang tension and ease the sheet.

For upwind performance you will need to install a traveller. From your photos, it would be easy to re-arrange your mainsheet with the fittings you have on the boom to a car on the traveller.

If you are a "Cruiser" rather than a "Sailor" I would not worry about changing anything. The traveller will give you better performance when going hard on the wind but little else.

Craig
Shirley Valentine
Gold Coast
Australia

[Vinnie45]

Thank you . I do have a vang I may add one block . I will look for a traveler in the salvage yard . Yes I am more cruiser then sailor .

[IslandAlchemy]

You could just put a rope strop on.  Use vectran.

[Diga]

Not sure, but I guess your ropes dead end should be tightened to the boom instead, then going to a block fastened at the eye at the deck. back to a block at the boom (same eye as where your dead end is tightened). Hereafter down to the other side, where a block is attached to the other eye at the deck. Finally back to the boom where you add a block and then following your boom as you have it today. I guess this will leave you with the correct configuration.

[Holger]

We owned a 30 Cruiser delivered in 2006. Diga is right. Fix the main sheet to the eye at the boom, run it down to the block on one side, back to the boom and down to the block on the opposite side, back to the boom and from there to the mast. In essence, you will need two blocks at the eye at the boom and one block at each eye on each side of the cabin top.

From the pictures I take it that you do not have a block on the starboard side which you will need to properly run the main sheet. I have found the attached picture which shows how to run the main sheet.  The picture also shows a weaknees of this systems: The main sheet tends to twist in the areas between the boom and the block on the cabin top. The main sheet can still be operated but if the main sheet is twisted there may be quite some tension.

[Vinnie45]

I found some blocks at the marine salvage I will set them up this weekend for a trip next week . I was wondering how to dead knot the end of the sheet , thanks for the picture .

[Salty]

I found some blocks at the marine salvage I will set them up this weekend for a trip next week . I was wondering how to dead knot the end of the sheet , thanks for the picture .

Use a figure of eight knot in the end, and pull it really tight. If you don't know how to do one, ask one of your yachty neighbours to show you, but any knot that doesn't easily pull out would do. Remember though that at some stage you will need to undo that knot, so don't make it too permanent.

[Mirror45184]

Use a bowline knot as they can be undone.
To stop the falls twisting, make sure that you get all of the twists out of the line. Alternatively put another hanger on the boom, behind the existing one. Then rig the main sheet as follows;
Put a pulley on each hanger and on the deck
tie bitter end to the front hanger
to the single on the  deck (either one will do)
from the deck to the pulley on the rear hanger
down to the deck pulley on the opposite side
up to the front pulley and to the front of the boom as normal.
By separating the runs they will not twist

Cheers

[Salty]

Use a bowline knot as they can be undone.
.....

And quite unsurprisingly, you can also undo a figure of eight knot. However, get a bowline wrongly tied, and I've seen plenty of them on other peoples boats, and it can fall apart remarkably easily.
As for getting the turns out of a coil of rope, this should be done with every coil, but some of the worst offenders are those who coil a rope incorrectly, for example from the free end towards the fixed, or around hand and elbow etc., and those who use it directly from a new coil.
One of the easiest ways of removing the turns is to pay the line out over the stern, and tow it for about ten minutes - just don't let it go by mistake, or run your engine astern at the same time, and only do it in deep water and when well away from all other boats. Then give it a good stretch with some weight on it overnight, or longer.

[MarkTheBike]

...pay the line out over the stern, and tow it for about ten minutes ... then give it a good stretch with some weight on it overnight, or longer.

Actually, Salty, that's a good idea. Not heard of it before - I'll give it a try. 

[Salty]

It's an old seafarers trick Mark and used to work very well.
ATB
Salty

[Kibo]

The towing lines trick was told to me by the manufacturer of my dinghy davits to untwist the falls. I can attest it works well !

[Mirror45184]

Good one Salty, When "coiling" lines I follow the method used by climbers, basically a figure 8 across the hand. Or for really long lines looped across my shoulders. This is for double braid and such like, of course plaited rope must be coiled, generally a clockwise soil to keep the rope together.
Happy sailing