Milky oil in sail drive leg

[sailprincess]

We had our Bavaria 40 hauled out in June, drained the oil from the leg and changed it (it was a bit milky, so replaced the seal on the shaft as well) Ran the motor for at least 100 hours since then, checked the oil again and all looked good. Then we headed down the West coast- Washington to San Francisco. Checked the oil in the leg and it is milky again. We did hit a kelp patch on the way down that required some reversing to get it off. We were able to clear it but we did lurch a little when hitting it. Wondering if that may have bumped the seal slightly. We've since pumped all the oil out of the leg (while in the water, so out the top hole) and filled with fresh oil. Ran the motor again and a bit of the milkiness has returned. Not sure if it was a bit of water left in the bottom that didn't get sucked out the top hole, or if more water has ingressed since we changed the oil out. Haul out facilities cannot take us for over a week and we want to continue south to San Diego. Is it okay to continue 65 nautical miles to Santa Cruz to get hauled out there, drain the oil, check and change the seal, etc.? Would love to hear thoughts on this as we don't want to have any catastrophic results and aren't sure the risk involved in continuing a bit further.

[tiger79]

I can't imagine you'd have a catastrophic failure in only 65 miles.  Even if there's some water in the oil, the bearings will still be lubricated.

[Yngmar]

Would be helpful if you specified which Saildrive you have, as they use different lubricants. Wrong lubricant is one possible cause of premature seal failure. Did you replace both seals? There are two, back-to-back.

Pumping it out from above (presumably a 130S or newer then, so correct lubricant is engine oil) will never get everything out, so you did leave a bit of watery oil inside. That's probably all that's happened.

The other possible sources of water ingress are the drain screw, the gasket between leg and rubber ring plate and between that plate and the rubber ring. Or, god forbid, a corrosion hole in the leg (possibly internal, between the raw water channel and the inside). Did you go for a swim and check for any obvious signs of trouble, such as a trickle of oil leaking out?

Is drying out an option? That would let you do a proper oil change and have a look for anything wrong.

One thing if you want to go on with this a bit - stop checking! If your seals are really gone again, the oil will stay put until you depressurize the saildrive leg by opening the dipstick. So each time you check, you let a bit of water in at the bottom.

[sailprincess]

Thanks guys. It is a 130S, yes. We are going to haul out and take a look at it once we go further south... Looks like Moss Landing is the next place that has haul-out and services sail drives. (We could do the oil change ourselves, but not sure about changing the seals (and yes, both seals were replaced in June, 2016). We had a diver check on the drive leg and prop today and didn't see anything out of the ordinary.

[Jackho]

My guess is the gasket on the drain screw needs replaced.  It should be replaced every time the oil is drained.  On older sail drives it was what I call a "one time compression" gasket and some might still use.  On newer models it's an "o" ring but still ages and tends to lose compression.

[Moodymike]

When I first had my B32 (2003)  I changed the oil in the sail drive . I tried to obtain a spare drain  screw plug from key parts but was unsuccessful . Each one they sent me had not a big enough thread. They insisted that mine had been re-tapped but I am convinced that it is original. I have reused the original  but worry if I ever have to replace it.  Does anyone know whether the are different size threads?

[Salty]

When I first had my B32 (2003)  I changed the oil in the sail drive . I tried to obtain a spare drain  screw plug from key parts but was unsuccessful . Each one they sent me had not a big enough thread. They insisted that mine had been re-tapped but I am convinced that it is original.............................. Does anyone know whether the are different size threads?

+1

[Impavidus]

Hi.
When you lift the boat flush the leg with the same oil as is in the engine to remove any moisture. Let it drain over night.
Replace the oil seal(s) if you are in any doubt as to the history of them being changed or the wrong oil being used.
All Volvo drive legs must have the same oil in them that is in the engine. But at one time they recommended ATF. 

On the drive shaft, check that the old seal(s) have not worn a grove on the output shaft, it should have been checked when they were last replaced.  (this will look like a thin shinny line running all the way around the shaft)if its excessively worn new seals will still let water in. The shaft needs work in an engineering shop or replacing.

Look at the output shaft housing that fixes in to the leg, it is held with a couple of hex head bolts behind the prop or rope cutter just behind the leg anode. Is the casting line disturbed? Is the leg antifoul cracked around the joint? (The joint in the case is about 15-20mm from the end of the leg...)

There are two large O rings that seal the output shaft bearing housing to the leg. These must be replaced and the seating thoroughly cleaned if the output shaft housing has been out to check end float or change the inner seal. If the joint between the two castings shows movement or cracking in the antifoul it is a good bet that the O rings are disturbed and water is getting by.   


Replace the O ring on the base of the sail drive, first cleaning the cap bolt and the drive bedding point with thinner to remove any antifoul or sealant that may have been put on at some time.
Bed the o ring on a little silicone grease so it does not tear or catch when it is tightened.

Finally, get a half steel drum, block it up under the leg and fill it with water with a hose, leave the hose running and check the prop will not hit the drum when it rotates.
Run the engine slowly for an hour or two in forward and reverse.

Still getting milky oil?
Buy a canoe. 


Hope this helps.

Ant.
 

[Nigel]

All Volvo drive legs must have the same oil in them that is in the engine.

Not all.

http://www.volvopenta.com/SiteCollectionDocuments/Penta/Misc/drive_1_oil_rec_7745608.pdf

Linked from here

[Impavidus]

Humm that's interesting Nigel. I went by the service bulletin below.


Volvo Penta has changed the recommendation for oil quality in S-drives.

S-drives manufactured September 2010 onwards will have a sticker with the information "SAE 15W-40 ONLY" attached in connection to the oil filler. Older drives have a sticker with the text "ATF OIL ONLY".

Volvo Penta recommends that all S-drives change from ATF oil to engine oil SAE 15W-40 at next oil change.

It is possible to replace oil without laying up the boat, please refer to the Operator?s Manual. However, with this method some ATF oil will remain in the stern drive. For problems concerning sliding / delayed engagement Volvo Penta recommend change of disk package and replacing the oil with engine oil SAE 15W-40.

IMPORTANT!
Gear when sailing

When sailing, set the control lever to reverse if a folding propeller is fitted.
If a fixed propeller is fitted the control lever should be set in neutral or reverse. When using a fixed propeller and sailing with the control lever set to reverse the speed is slowed down though less noise is being made.


Best regards.
Ant.

[geoff]

I am with Nigel on this , the general rule is now engine oil APART FROM 120se which is still gear oil. Geoff