Bavaria 33 Cruiser 2006: Fuel Sender & Fuel Gauge Renewal
The problem started one year ago with variable readings on the fuel gauge, i.e. reading full on startup and then falling to zero, then reading mid tank, then not reading, etc. Checked the fuel gauge, the wiring, connectors and the 12V supply; and all appeared to be OK. The problem was narrowed to the capacitive fuel level sender, which is a fairly expensive item to replace and not something to purchase on the chance that it may or may not work. The decision was therefore to replace the capacitive sender with a reed sender, which is a fraction of the cost. A full kit was purchased from a well-known website, which included the fuel sender (euro resistance) 0-190 ohms, a fuel gauge, flange and screws.
The original Bavaria capacitive sender (length 270mm) uses the standard SAE 5-hole fixing to the fuel tank, so other makes of well-known reed fuel senders will fit the fuel tank. The nearest sender length to the original sender was 250 mm. A 275mm sender may have fitted the tank, but none were available at the time of purchase. You would have to measure the exact clearance inside the fuel tank, the fuel tank external on this Bavaria is 270mm. So, with the new sender being 250mm (do the maths), when reading empty there will be 12 litres in the tank, the old reserve tank! The wiring change at the fuel tank was simple, the 12V wire (RED) to the former capacitive sender is not required. The new fuel tank sender has two wires, one is negative and the other is the sender wire to the fuel gauge.
The sender wire in the loom, from the fuel gauge to the fuel tank sender on this Bavaria 33 is black (the wiring colour on other Bavaria’s may differ). The external dome on the original capacitive sender sits higher, where the new reed sender is a flat fit to the top of the fuel tank, so the screw length supplied is less.
The other point of interest, is that for the low price of a reed sender, you can temp wire at the fuel tank and check all is working by manually moving the float up and down and comparing this to the readings on the fuel gauge (or ohms on the meter); before you fit the sender to the tank.
If you buy separate parts, make sure that the sender is supplied with a new rubber flange.
(the old flange is indented and not suitable)
It was an easier job than I expected, pics attached, wago’s used (taped & secured later), the old connector block retains the 12V wire.
Early days, all working
