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71
Scuttlebutt / Re: PFD that is auto-inflating, has harnes, place to clip on strobe and epirb
« Last post by Happysailor on October 28 2024, 18:56 »
Perhaps not unimportant, also investigate what maintenance/ testing costs of the PFD will be. Some are either hugely expensive to test and for some are spares difficult to get. Generally there are only a few manufacturers of the actual actuating device (Halkey-Roberts, United Moulders) and make sure it is this kind of general and not exotic brand. If you are frequently sailing in poor and very wet conditions, you could consider a “Hammar” actuating device. (As your saltpill actuator may inflate in severe conditions, especially on bow conditions)
Also go for sufficient floatation, like 275N, which will be capable to turn your head above water when you enter it unconscious and prevents you from immediate drowning..
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Polls & Yacht Opinions / Re: Bavaria 47 Cruiser, 2001, circumnavigation
« Last post by symphony2 on October 28 2024, 17:04 »
Genuine Coppercoat from AMC in Dorset UK. You will also need epoxy on the keel. AMC can sell this as well but you might be better sourcing locally I used Hempel Hempadur. 5 coats immediately after blasting. Job best done in warm dry summer months if outside.
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Polls & Yacht Opinions / Re: Bavaria 47 Cruiser, 2001, circumnavigation
« Last post by UP on October 28 2024, 13:03 »
Hello again,

It turns out the ablative paint I applied after soda-blasting this year is total shit. And I'm considering re-blasting the bottom for next season. Might as well paint the copper-coat on in preparation for the circumnavigation. She will however still sail for one further season in the Baltic.

Do you have any recommendations for which manufacturer-product to go for? I would not like to copper-coat twice. Thanks!
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Checking rig tensioning based on frequency
« Last post by UP on October 28 2024, 12:59 »
@jake as a side note, unfortunately the cheap rigging tension gauge market ends at 10 mm. Larger yachts (44ft +) with 12 mm rigging or above have only the ruler method available. Second side note: the accuracy of the ruler method highly depends on the thermal stability of the ruler. Metal and plastic are bad, wood is good, however suspect to moisture.

As for acoustic analysis of the rig - it is a very sound idea and I have tuned my chainplate tie rods with a smartphone app (mast off). However these rods are very short, rather tight, and they create a relatively high pitch which also is amplified by the ships hull. Above deck, "string" lengths are way longer, as mentioned above.

If you're serious about measuring the rig tension acoustically, then a piezoceramic transducer clamped physically to the wire will have the resolution to measure the frequency. Quoting from Seldens tuning manual, a 19/20 rig cap shrouds should be tuned to 25% of the breaking load. For a 12 mm wire this is is 0.25*126 kN = 31.5 kN. Say for a 5.5 m distance on a 18m mast, to the first shrouds, the first natural resonant frequency is around 35 Hz. You will need an amplifier for amplifying the weak low frequency signal. You could then record it with Audacity and run a Fast Fourier transform on it.

Sounds pretty straightforward, but in reality probably will be way more complicated than the wooden ruler method :D Noise will be your likely enemy, plus the X factor.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fresh water drains to bilge
« Last post by symphony2 on October 28 2024, 12:19 »
First are you sure about draining into the bilge area under the engine? Not my experience with a 37 from the same era. The blue pipe going forward is almost certainly the feed from the front water tank (which in itself is often a source of leaks) to the changeover valve.
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Scuttlebutt / Re: PFD that is auto-inflating, has harnes, place to clip on strobe and epirb
« Last post by symphony2 on October 28 2024, 12:14 »
Difficult to make recommendations as you are in the USA and the PFDs available there will be different from what is available in Europe where most of us are based. Research what is available, check the specs and then if possible try on the ones that have the features (which are common to most of the better ones) you want.
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Modifications & Equipment / Re: Shower drain on 2004 38 - Access impossible?
« Last post by jeffatoms2 on October 28 2024, 03:18 »
You might also try accessing it from the engine bay.  The step between the shower and the head is hollow.  You might put a boroscope viewer down there and have a look first.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fresh water drains to bilge
« Last post by aquapore on October 28 2024, 03:12 »
Thanks for your responses.
I don't think it is the aft shower or hot water as that wound drain in the bilge under the motor which is isolated from the main bilge which collects the water.
I have made further investigation and the water starts to drain it the forward section of the bilge.
I notice an additional blue line which passes the cupboard under the sink and then mysteriously disappears into the furniture. That is 3 line 1 red and 2 blue enter the sink cupboard and two lead on the second head after servicing the sink faucet. I cannot see where the extra blue line goes. I don't want to start opening up the wood work.  I am looking for a piping diagram. Appreciate any help.
Regards

Aquapore
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Scuttlebutt / Re: PFD that is auto-inflating, has harnes, place to clip on strobe and epirb
« Last post by mjt2 on October 27 2024, 23:08 »
Thanks, while I agree one must try them on, I'm looking for recommendations for something that has all the features I'm looking for.  Any ideas?

Thanks
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Modifications & Equipment / Re: Shower drain on 2004 38 - Access impossible?
« Last post by rdd2 on October 27 2024, 18:55 »
Oh that's great news. So maybe a little persuasion to get it through there. I'll try that and report back. Thank you.
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