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61
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: removing the cam wheels ect
« Last post by sy_Anniina on October 31 2024, 12:21 »
I believe MD22 workshop manual from may help https://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd_22_workshop_manual.pdf. Furhtermore some tips on how not to use Volvo special tools and still manage locking all timing components (incl. flywheel) are described in timing belt change DIY instructions at https://www.jeanneau-owners.com/hintsandtips/volvomd22lbtimingbelt.html.

..preparing for timing belt change within the next one or two seasons... have these links at my bookmarks :)

BR,

Tommi - s/y Anniina
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / removing the cam wheels ect
« Last post by tckearney on October 31 2024, 10:44 »
Good day.  I have a very small water leak from the freshwater circulating pump  Bavaria 42 2000. .  This is behind the plastic covers on my MD22 55hp.  I have started the job and removed the cam belt, with all pulleys locked in position but cant remove the main crankshaft pully.  Is there a secret to getting the main lock nut off.  The boat is in the water so I cant put it in gear and lock the prop. How do you lock crankshaft so I can undo the nut.  Also I cant figure out how to lock the fuel injector pump once the injector drive wheel is off.  Is there any U tube videos. Thanks Terry.   
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: List to starboard
« Last post by Yngmar on October 31 2024, 09:29 »
If your boat lists to starboard, you need to add more port wine.  :))
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / List to starboard
« Last post by blue-max on October 31 2024, 09:23 »
My boat ocean 47 has a list to starboard. Is there a way to correct this? A friend who previously owned a Bavaria from new told me all Bavaria yachts list. Is this true?. On the starboard side I  have the batteries but this was compensated by 90 m of 10 mm chain in port side saloon bilge. Also only using port side water and fuel tanks had no effect to correct the list. Looks like I will have to live with this?
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: plumbing diagram - mystery pipe!
« Last post by aquapore on October 30 2024, 05:22 »
Yes - the blue pipe does connect to the forward tank.

Regards

RW
66
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fresh water drains to bilge
« Last post by aquapore on October 30 2024, 05:20 »
yes, Symtphony2 is right - the blue line moving forward is connected to the forward water tank. I was expecting a different type of hose as a suction pipe.
I am the second owner of the boat and it may be some changes have been made. The change over valve is brass 3 way "L" port valve which appears to be plated brass with 38mm braided hose connections - something you would buy at a hardware store. It appears to be very "agricultural" in design and construction. The valve is not attached other than by the pipe work.
I will investigate further.

There is no water under the motor. Does that rule out the transom shower and the hot water tank and fittings aft of the motor.

I will dry the bilge and pour water down the drainage faculties at various locations to try to find the source of the leak.
I will also check put various location suggested in reply.

regards
Aquapore
67
Announcements / Re: Call for donations & attachment sizes
« Last post by Yngmar on October 29 2024, 22:16 »
Keep 'em coming, we're 44% to getting back to positive.

Thanks to everyone contributing so far.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fresh water drains to bilge
« Last post by SYJetzt on October 29 2024, 07:48 »
Thanks for your responses.
I don't think it is the aft shower or hot water as that wound drain in the bilge under the motor which is isolated from the main bilge which collects the water.
I have made further investigation and the water starts to drain it the forward section of the bilge.

The motor bilge only collects fluids from the engine. If you have a leak in the aft part of the fresh water system, it will drain to the central bilge thru the laminated stringers.
69
Polls & Yacht Opinions / Re: Bavaria 47 Cruiser, 2001, circumnavigation
« Last post by jeffatoms2 on October 29 2024, 03:04 »
Just wondering, as far as timeframe goes, lets say your route is 20,000 miles and you average 100 miles in 24 hours (4 knots and hour).  It's rough but that would imply 200 full days on passage.  3:1 might work, or 800 days.  Is that your estimate?  Speaking of time frame, you mentioned the boat has crossed the Atlantic a few times prior to you.  Do you know how that went?  How long have you owned it?  Do you know your boat intimately as in have you done all of the expected sailing, cruising, anchoring, navigating, inspecting, servicing, troubleshooting, repairing, and retesting on it?
Do you have a whisker pole and a mainsail jibe preventer?

How about mast climbing gear?  We have a Switec - a one person, self ascending operation in a pinch.


And spares, spares, and repairs!  Your boat is almost as old as ours and I know that most of our original systems and equipment have expired, failed and been replaced in one way or another. As Yngmar stated the toilet will fail so do you have a spare pump and rebuild kit and a few joker valves?  Speaking of stuff that expires, the diaphragm on most diaphram pumps and bladders in your accumulator are only good for a few years.  Those are a few examples of stuff that will probably fail.  Have SPARES and the skills to do the repairs.  If you have the gear, might I suggest Nigel Calders best seller, Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical #3 or 4 and the shop manual for your engine with exploded diagrams.

After seven years of ownership we are still heavy coastal cruisers but just about every system on our boat has a live redundancy or a spare ready to go.  Same goes for ground tackle.  I've hauled the ground tackle up manually twice after a fried 20 year old windlass and a failed clutch followed by freefall (all 260 feet!).  Does your windlass allow manual recovery?  Have you tried it, and if not, have you done it from your primaries?

And what about your dinghy and trusty outboard?  If inflatable, is it hypalon?  Is it a RIB?  I.M.E. PVC is junk.  Tropical sun will destroy any dinghy quickly; do you have chaps?  Do you have a means and the abilty to lash it to the deck? We have had good reason to carry spare spark plus and spare carburetors and the right tools (or the more complex rebuild kits).  A patch kit, spare prop and extra air pump are not bad either, especially if you have the correct cotter pin.

Speaking of propulsion, what shape is the auxillary in?  What do you know about major service prior to your ownership? Do you know how to perform all service interval tasks?  Do you have a dual Racor or just the stock single non-visual fuel filter? This will matter when the crud in the 23 year old tank gets mixed into the fuel.  Do you have a couple impellers ( and a puller sure is handy) and a complete spare raw water pump and a thermostat and related gaskets?  How about all varieties of sealant/adhesivesneeded, and speaking of handy how about including butyl tape and a SplashZone kit?

I could go on and on about tools and spares parts, service parts, bulbs and fittings, but I'm certain you have this covered.  A few that one never seems to have enough are anodes (rudder, saildrive/propshaft/prop, water heater/calorifier, outboard, possibly refrigerator, others and PFD repair kits.   Speaking of anodes, I make marine water heaters for a living and you are risking premature failure if you have a watermaker as the source and don't know how to properly maintain it.  I just saw one that failed in under 3 years of seasonal use.

And to leave you with one more random thought, if any of the potential worst case scenarios happens, are you and your partner prepared?  Have you done all the dry runs?  I'm certain the scary stuff is covered but what about a plumbing issue like losing power and not being able to get fresh water out of the tank?

A circumnavigation is serious business. You just can't be too prepared but the key is  to make sure you do it and to have fun and make lifelong memories for everyone.  Be safe and ENJOY!!
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fresh water drains to bilge
« Last post by UP on October 28 2024, 18:58 »
Some freshwater leaks I've had:
1) Pinhole leak in 15 mm tubing (I only found this because I put a flashlight behind the leak to work on a different project and the fine mist gave a nice "halo" in the light) - very hard to find, but this is not going to leak 50L overnight;
2) Aft shower hose dethatched from the shower head. I pumped 250L+ into the boat in about an hour;
3) Various leaks from old or poor quality 15mm push-fittings. My boats whole plumbing system is made up of 15 mm push fit tubes and push-fi-fittings. Some degrade over time, others are simply poorly made and on some occasions the 15 mm hose itself becomes damaged at the sealing joint due to repetitive use (there is a metal "claw" that keeps the pipe in the fitting);
4) A leak from a self made 15 mm stopper which was fitted into a push-fit T-joint.

A tactic I would use in your case would be to segment the boat. The plumbing will likely run either clockwise or anticlockwise from to the pump to rest of the boat. If possible, I would shut off half the boat from the water supply and wait for the pump re-pressurization. If this occurs, you know that the leaky part is likely in the pressurized segment of piping, not in that which you plugged.
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