Bavaria Yacht Info
Member Forums => Bavaria Yacht Help! => Topic started by: Impavidus on August 03 2017, 14:19
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Hi all. I am going to write an article for the BOA on breakdowns and failures, and how to fix them. I will publish it on this forum too. I would like some help compiling the statistics/information. To this end could I ask you take 5 mins to look at the information below and briefly tell what has failed or been a problem on your boat. The list below does not cover everything but covers most of the things we know about or are sometimes an issue or not. Once I have done this I am hoping to produce some logic/process charts to help Bavaria owners fault diagnose problems and repair them, or point them in the right direction to maintain their boat to prevent things becoming an issue. I will cover rigging sails and possibly electronics an in another survey. Could you just post the number and the letter(s) I will be able to take the data and run it through. EG (1) a b f g. (2) a f g, and so on. I do not believe that anything like this has been done before for any make of boat it could be really helpful to all Bavaria owners.
Many thanks. Ant
(1) Water ingress (fresh)
a. Leaking port-light
b. Leaking window (fixed)
c. Leaking stanchion(s)
d. Leaking hatch
e. Leaking deck fitting (structural)
f. Leaking chain plates
g. Leaking cable gland
h. Leaking toe rail
i. Leaking fresh water pump (domestic)
j. Leaking hot water pipes
k. Leaking cold water pipes
l. Leaking calorifier (hot water tank)
m. Shower tray or pipework
n. Sink or pipework
o. Other (please specify)
(2) Water ingress (salt)
a. Shaft water seal (shaft drive)
b. Bellows gasket (sail drive)
c. Through hull fitting (below the water line)
d. Raw water pump (gasket/plate)
e. Raw water pump (seals)
f. Raw water anti syphon valve (leaks to engine bay)
g. Raw water anti syphon valve (leaks into engine)
h. Keel bolts
i. Exhaust leaking (Volvo type exhaust)
j. Rudder stock or bearing
k. Other (please specify)
(3) Engine not starting
a. Battery flat (or battery problem)
b. Starter jammed
c. Starter solenoid failed
d. Starter solenoid activation cable corroded
e. Run out of diesel
f. Air in diesel
g. Heaters (glow plugs) not working
h. Fuse failure
i. Relay failure
j. Injection pump solenoid failed
(4) Engine running poorly
a. Air in diesel
b. Water in diesel (filler cap O ring perished)
c. Water in diesel (bad fuel)
d. Water in diesel (condensation)
e. Blocked filters (diesel bug)
f. Air in diesel lines (Leak on vacuum side)
g. Air in diesel (Fuel pump diaphragm hole)
h. Lack of Diesel (Tap blocked by debris)
i. Lack of Diesel (other) please specify.
j. Poor combustion (clogged air filter/s)
k. Poor combustion (clogged exhaust elbow)
l. Poor combustion (timing or pump)
m. Poor combustion (injectors)
n. Poor combustion (valves or compression)
o. Poor combustion (other) please specify
(5) Over heating
a. Blocked drive leg or water inlet
b. Blocked raw water filter
c. Blocked pump or pipework
d. Blocked heat exchanger
e. Blocked injection elbow (water inlet not exhaust)
f. Blocked heat exchanger (fresh water matrix)
g. Faulty thermostat
h. Header tank too low
i. Air locks to fresh water cooling
j. Sludge or constricted water galleries
k. Heat exchanger leaks to salt water side (blows water out header tank)
l. Overheating other (please specify).
(6) Gearbox problems
a. Failure will not drive
b. Failure will not come out of drive
c. Difficult to engage
d. Difficult to disengage
e. Dog clutch or drive plate failed
f. Other (please specify)
(7) Shaft drive
a. Poor alignment (or keeps going out of alignment)
b. Shaft seal failure (not leaking)
c. Drive shaft coupling (shear pin or bolts)
d. Cutlass bearing (vibration or out of alignment)
e. Cutlass bearing (spinning or stuck in)
f. Other (please specify)
(8) Sail Drive
a. Failure will not drive
b. Failure will not come out of drive
c. Difficult to engage
d. Difficult to disengage
e. Dog clutch or drive plate failed
f. Bearing failure (loud grumble when in gear)
g. Seal failure (water in oil)
h. Bellows gasket failed
i. Bellows gasket leaking
j. Prop cush drive failure (bonded rubber fails and prop comes off or causes excessive vibration)
k. Oil leaks
l. Other (Please specify)
(9) Batteries and Electrical
a. Mains breaker fails or keeps shutting off
b. Main board polarity light flashing or on constantly
c. Charger fails (stops charging)
d. Charger fails (over charging)
e. Alternator fails (not charging)
f. Alternator (overcharging)
g. Batteries not holding charge (go flat in short time on low loads)
h. Battery low voltage (less than 11 volt)
i. Fridge not cooling
j. Fridge over cooling (constantly ices up)
k. Fridge temperature not constant
l. Fridge thermostat (fail)
m. Water Pump (cycles) when not in use
n. Water pump fails (electrical not leaking)
o. Nav lights fail (other than bulb)
p. Interior lights fail (other than bulb)
q. Water tank level fails or shows empty when full
r. Holding tank level shows empty when full
s. Holding tank level shows full when empty
t. Shower pump fails (other than leaking)
u. Other (please specify)
(10) Doors and Handles
a. Cabin door handle will not lock
b. Cabin door locked will not open
c. Cabin door broken Handle (comes off)
d. Cabin door hinges (fail)
e. Cupboard door will not open (push catch)
f. Cupboard door will not close or stay closed
g. Cupboard door push catch comes undone or fails
h. Cupboard door sprung hinge fails
i. Draw lock will not open (push catch)
j. Draw lock will not close (push catch)
k. Draw lock push catch comes undone or fails
l. Companion way door hinge fails (or seizes up)
m. Companion way door lock fails (in locked or un-locked position)
n. Wash board doors lock fails (or seizes up)
o. Wash board doors lock fails (in locked or un-locked position)
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Sounds interesting. Thanks for doing this data gathering. Hope you'll get enough for a useful statistic. I'll start:
Bavaria 40 Ocean (2001)
1c) all stanchions leaked due to failed sealant (clear silicone)
1h) teak toe rail leaked due to shrinking/detached sealant (black caulking)
2e) MD22L-B raw water pump rear seals leaked and sprayed saltwater over engien and starter motor
4e) black gunk in diesel - filters thick with it but engine kept running
5a) blocked saildrive intake channels in leg (mussels growing inside from disuse)
8g) seals replaced
9i) fridge electronics dead, later refrigerant evacuated and recharged due to blockages
9q) contacts corroded
10e) corrosion - replaced
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Hi Ant, sounds like a long project, good luck with it
Bavaria Vision 46 2014
1a port light above the galley area, fixed with new seal
2c thru hull fitting leaked in forward head inlet
2k raw water leak from Genset heat exchanger failure
10a cabin door lock handle holding spring failed so door does not stay shut in a seaway, fixed with new spring
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Great data gathering project:
Bavaria 40 AC, 3cab (2001) my findings during my first two seasons
1 jk poorly installed new faucets by dealer
2 fk anchor box repair made by p.o. leaked around from anchor box exit holes
5 l - raw water filter seal allowed air to leak into system -> no raw water flow
9 hu - one battery "exploded" - plastic cover cracked due to internal fault / pressure + fresh water pump intermittently stuck if not used + inverter (sinergex pure sine) goes down to power-save mode even if set up not to do that
10 o - key broke inside lock (open position)
BR,
Tommi
s/y Anniina
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B 40 Cruiser 2009
1 b resealed but ongoing when hard pressed and these are underwater
1 h love tap from a Sydney 38!
3 a, just pushing my luck with old battery!
4 k, normal operation according to diesel mechanic. Apparently we sailors do not run our engines hard enough to burn off deposits!
9 q, just accepted that this is an ongoing fault. Had the same issue with a B 30 cruiser 2007
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2001 37, sold 2015. Chartered until 2008 so have not captured everything, but mostly in that period minor electrical issues, nothing major. below are items I directly dealt with 2008-15
1a Portlights leaking, mainly in severe weather
1c all stanchions loose, one at least leaked a bit. Worst design bases I have ever come across
1k cold water feed into calorifier split
1o Forward water tank split, replaced with SS one custom made
8a saildrive failed - not unconnected to 7 years chartering new 130 drive fitted
9f alternator rebuilt
9n water pump bearings seized new pump fitted
9q forward tank sender did not work, aft tank OK
2015 B33
Nothing to report yet except some issues with Garmin instruments fixed under warranty
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1 c or h or both - not sure yet
1 i - not the pump itself, but the filter attached to its input. Disassemble and clean
2 i - silencer SS end caps corroded. replaced with Vetus plastic type
3 i - relay OK but relay tabs got "filed away" in the sockets due to the vibration of the engine. replaced and put a "shim" between relay top an box cover to prevent movement. As a first aid - if you have a soldering iron - spread some solder on the damaged tab.
3 - no item for this - lift pump not working and no diesel is flowing to the injection pump. Reason - debris in lift pump valves/diaphragm
4 e
4 k
6 f - actually not gearbox itself but broken link at throttle. It is a plastic link. Unfortunately it will probably break during maneuver due to an abrupt shift from reverse to forward (or vice versa). The result is that the boat will continue to move fast(er) to the last direction.
8 g - from a single encounter with a fishing line
9 c - blown charger output fuse
9 e - faulty regulator
9 g - old battery
9 o - corroded wires. This is an overall problem with older models where they used non tinned wires. Problem even with wires inside cabin and obviously for outside wires.
I would move some fresh water issues (such as 1i) from "water ingress" section to a new section that I would call "fresh water system" that would include all possible problem with it (technically these are not ingress related because the fresh water system is internal). Also for example 9m is not really an electrical problem but a problem with the fresh water system itself.
Some things to add:
Shower not draining (pump is OK) - Clogged filter
Holding tank not draining (and we know that toilet paper was never thrown to the bowl) - reason: calcification (urine+seawater). calcium deposits on the tank walls break down and clog the outlet pipe. Better to do preventive maintenance by pouring periodically vinegar or toilet cleaning stuff. If it happens - opening port on deck to prevent over pressure and short bursts of back wash by inserting water hose to throughull
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Hi,
BAV 41 (2003)
1d. Lewmar gasket ($$) to replace
1h.
1o. leak through aft fairlead, removed, resealed and refastened
1o. any water under shower module nearly impossible to access for removal (had to drill a hole in p/s shower sump )
2h. minimal amount when sailing hard
3h.
4o. Injector pump leak on high pressure side of cyl 3&4. Pump reconditioned ok now.
5l. Exhaust elbow coroded (sea water restriction and corosion of heat exchanger next to elbow - major problem $$$)
8c.
9c. Had to be replaced
9e. Brg seized, replaced, 2 other diode bridge failures - rebuilt
10e.
Best regards
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1999 B35e
10 a)
Also, fixed by PO just prior to listing for sale in 2016: failed rudder post fixed with installation of new rudder and assembly (US $15k). Information on what to look for so there's no repeat would be helpful as this seems to be a common failure with Bav's.
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Not sure a failed rudder post - assume you mean what we call a stock = is particularly common. gearings seizing, usually the lower one is more common - and not just with Bavaria as that design was widely used at the time. Symptoms are increasingly stiff steering which could lead to scoring of the stock which is aluminium, although usually it is corrosion in the bearing housing that is the big problem. Rudder blades are prone to osmosis and also cracks that can lead to water absorption in the core of the rudder.
If the boat was unlucky enough to have all of these problems, which are not too difficult to deal with individually, it may well be more effective to replace the whole rudder and bearing system rather than repair.
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Bav 38 launched Feb 2010.
1j. replaced plastic connector at hot water outlet on tank.
1L. Heat exchanger in tank failed. replaced tank with Quick tank.
2i. Volvo wet exchaust corroded metal fittings. replaced with Vetus, all plastic system.
4h. Diesel Bug in Europe blocked on/off switch. Now have clear plastic in line strainer to stop lumpy bits clogging fuel off/on tap.
Also,
Now on third Auto-helm. Replaced by Lewmar under warranty. Faulty clutch mechanism.
On third radio, replaced by Raymarine under warranty as set not holding MMSI number. All Ok now.
Replaced Anchor Windlass as it corroded out under the base, chain caught and ripped the gears out when chain stripper fell apart.
Only Bavaria part to fail was the insulation inside the refrigerator lid fell off. Glued back on.
Craig
" Shirley Valentine"
Gold Coast
Australia
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Here you go.
1) Water ingress (fresh)
a. Leaking portlight - just cleaned the seals, put some hand cream on them, and tapped-up the tangs.
c. Leaking stanchion(s) - a few with woobly loose screws.
d. Leaking hatch - Just due to use, age, UV, and wear.
e. Leaking deck fitting (structural) - All fixed in with silicone which broke down under UV
h. Leaking toe rail - hall/deck seal leak under toe rail due to a gap in the sealeant when built
i. Leaking fresh water pump (domestic) - currently dripping
j. Leaking hot water pipes - leak from pipe fitting at calorifier - replaced pipe fitting
(2) Water ingress (salt)
a. Shaft water seal (shaft drive) - just got old (13 years).
e. Raw water pump (seals) - just throug age and use
(3) Engine not starting
d. Starter solenoid activation cable corroded - connector
(4) Engine running poorly
a. Air in diesel - usually CAV filter
e. Blocked filters (diesel bug)
(6) Gearbox problems
f. Other (please specify) - noisy damper plate (Hurth gearbox)
(9) Batteries and Electrical
c. Charger fails (stops charging)
i. Fridge not cooling
p. Interior lights fail (other than bulb) - knackered switches
q. Water tank level fails or shows empty when full - 1 does
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2007 Bavaria 37 which I have owned from Jan 2014.
1 - C & G
9 - I & L
10 - E
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2014 Cruiser 37, owned from new.
9s - I've unplugged the sender unit.
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2006 Bavaria 37 Owned two years.
4. m
5. a, e
6. c (cable replaced)
9. i, l, u (calorifier thermostat fail)
10. a, o
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Not mentioned in my above post also had following issues
1. salt water pump on engine had leaking seal on shaft. fixed easily
2. Oil leaks from Sump, timing cover of Volvo D1-30.
3. hinge on cupboard over stove corroded by salt when window left open,
4. Stove - oven door latch broken. rusty grid and fiddles on top of stove.
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Not sure a failed rudder post - assume you mean what we call a stock = is particularly common. gearings seizing, usually the lower one is more common - and not just with Bavaria as that design was widely used at the time. Symptoms are increasingly stiff steering which could lead to scoring of the stock which is aluminium, although usually it is corrosion in the bearing housing that is the big problem. Rudder blades are prone to osmosis and also cracks that can lead to water absorption in the core of the rudder.
If the boat was unlucky enough to have all of these problems, which are not too difficult to deal with individually, it may well be more effective to replace the whole rudder and bearing system rather than repair.
I believe that was the full scope of the problem. We never spoke directly to the previous owners, but did get some info from the yard that did the repair and replacement with a Jeffa rudder. The new one apparently has some upgrades to the quality of the bearing and/or housing that is more compatible with the aluminum stock.
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Many thanks to everyone who has contributed so far. Yngmar, ditto to most of yours on my old boat. Tiger, Ditto on my new boat. Craig Ditto both my Bavaria's. Bob yes. All known issues that come up. But still a lovely capable boat in 45 knots of wind? Shirley, Humm this keeps coming up. Scorcher IV, again same old same old. Symphony, thanks for that good input. Every one else, I thank you for your input, its bringing up just the data we need as a forum and Bavaria owners.
Guests and others. Dont just read this! Please contribute. There is a lot of data and info in this forum from every level of ownership, ability and experience.
Best regards.
Ant
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For Bavaria 32 2004
(1) Water ingress (fresh)
e. Leaking deck fitting (structural)
4) Engine running poorly
b. Water in diesel (filler cap O ring perished)
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Many thanks to everyone who has contributed so far.
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Guests and others. Dont just read this! Please contribute. There is a lot of data and info in this forum from every level of ownership, ability and experience.
Best regards.
Ant
Hi Ant, just gathering it all together, and as follows:-
Bavaria 36 2002
1a leaking port light seal - fixed with a smear of Vaseline.
1c all stanchion bases re-sealed, and hands cut off any visitor that uses the stanchions to haul themselves onboard.
1i leaking pump diaphragm
1o leaking F.W. Pump filter (two parts don't fit together very well)
2b no actual problem, but changed after 9yrs and found perfect
2e raw water pump seal small leak and was changed.
2i exhaust silencer s.s. Ends corroded - changed for all plastic £58 silencer almost one year ago and all ok now.
2j no leakage, but rudder bearing changed after heavy vibrations which now stopped.
3a original starter battery not holding charge and changed after 14 years.
Extra point 3k engine starter push button collapsed and a new starter button fitted which works ok.
4h Lack of diesel - forgot to open fuel valve, but it allowed diesel fuel to pass through but not enough for much more than 2000rpm but for at least three hours
5a saildrive waterway partially blocked by mussel shells
5d heat exchanger seawater inlet end blocked by previous owners pump impeller blades and mussel shells
(5k - should this read Heat exchanger leaks FROM salt water side to FW (blows water out of header tank)
5l see 5f poor design of raw water filter allowed mussel shells to pass thro filter and pump to lodge in entrance to heat exchanger.
8d saildrive difficult to disengage - suspect problem with morse control.
8g milky oil in sail drive at 1st change after buying boat in 2010. Shaft seal changed and no further problem.
9e alternator not charging after work done on 2b where yard mechanic incorrectly connected alternator wires to wrong terminals.
9i fridge not cooling 1. due poor insulation and later 2. Due to loss of refrigerant where pipe chafed against woodwork. Insulation improved but still work in progress, and recharged refrigerant gas and re-routed the pipe to avoid chafe.
9o steaming and tricolour lights not lighting due to corrosion on original ordinary copper wire cabling.
9q water tank level gauge fails. Happened six years ago, and just ignored.
10f two new cupboard door push button latches fitted where the originals failed.
Plenty more stuff for next set of survey questions.
Regards
Salty
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This is great so much data and it's forming some patterns!! :kewl :kewl :kewl :kewl :kewl
Ant.
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Hi Ant,
Did you complete the article you were doing for BOA at the start of this thread, cos you mentioned about publishing it on this forum too?
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Ant, I "met" you on Bavaria's Facebook, then viewed your Facebook and looked at some of your videos. I also copied your post and downloaded your photos with your car modifications; that is in the top 10 upgrades this year on my Vision 46. I hope you keep posting; I really appreciate your efforts to assist Bavaria owners.
I purchased my Vision 46 in 2015 at the Annapolis boat show and commissioned it in May/June 2016. Had lots of minor leaking issues that i mostly resolved and many other commissioning issues. Bavaria Yachts USA did a good job, but was not supported by Bavaria Yachtbau who "fired" them leaving me "out there". My marina fixed many issues and were ultimately not paid. I then started paying them and I wasn't reimbursed. Bavaria Yachtbau took no responsibility for the warranty even though my contract specifically states the warranty an indicates their responsibility. Bavaria Yachtbau has provided a few parts under warranty only a few hundred when my invoices for labor/parts totaled over $15,000.
Because I'm basically on my own with this boat, I truly appreciate your efforts! To assist with this post, the following are issues I have had:
(1) Water ingress (fresh)
c. Leaking stanchion(s) Rain water leaking water between the chainplates into the encapsulated cover area. Found out when buffing the cover and water shot out. Removed calk around the bottom of the cover area to allow it to drain, dry out over winter and calked to seal. Bavaria did provide specs on correct calk, but did not provide the calk for the repair.
o. Other (please specify)
o1. Rain water leaking Cleat thru bolt (incomplete calk). Cleat bolt cross threaded, cut off, reseated. If not cross threaded, would have been a 15 min fix.
02. All water drains leaked. All were under-torqued consistently. Each connection does have two hose clamps but many were pulled away from the connection fitting. Every hose clamp had to be tightened after reconnecting. Sucked out hundreds of gallons of water from the bilges until all connections on the boat were located.
03. A/C condensor collection box failures/leaks - Overflowed due to pump failures. Replaced entire box and pumps. New pumps often do not come on or get a "bubble" and stay on but don't pump out the water.
04. Webasto drain pain has four outlets. Bavaria used one even though manual states that at minimum 2 must be connected on port/SB sides. Oops. Added new drain pipes on opposite sides to allow water to drain. I like dry bilges.
05. Aft hatch leaking due to bent locking pin. Bavaria replaced the locking mechanism. Found nut was cross-threaded. No leaks now.
(2) Water ingress (salt)
k. Other (please specify) None.
(3) Engine not starting
a. Battery flat (or battery problem) Starter batter was indicated as isolated, but manual does no indicate how. I though it was automatic or permanent, but found out the hard way that unless the Switch is set to off (under the galley sink), it is part of the house bank. Volvo D2-55 will not turn over if starter is below 12.5V. Now, we simply isolate immediately by turning off the switch once at anchor.
(4) Engine running poorly
o. Other (please specify) No issues whatsoever with the Volvo D2-55; quiet, perfect operation. But only have 150hrs.
(5) Over heating
l. Overheating other (please specify) No issues.
(6) Gearbox problems
f. Other (please specify) No issues.
(8) Sail Drive
l. Other (Please specify) No issues.
(9) Batteries and Electrical
a. Mains breaker fails or keeps shutting off Happened daily for first 60-90 days. 50% of the 110V wiring at the outlets were incorrectly wired. Didn't trip all the time; based on wattage of the appliance used. AC mains tripped also. Bavaria USA claimed all wiring issues were shore power. My marina fixed all issues, paid for by ME!
j. Fridge over cooling (constantly ices up) Occurs constantly; must turn off every 15 - 30 days even if there is no water is at the bottom (no drains). This is my wife's biggest complaint; constantly cleaning out the freezer.
u. Other (please specify)
(10) Doors and Handles
f. Cupboard door will not close or stay closed Two doors constantly open in heavy seas. Not sure how to fix!
k. Draw lock push catch comes undone or fails Same lock push catch on doors; one drawer constantly comes open under heavy seas. Not sure how to fix.
o. Wash board doors lock fails (in locked or un-locked position) Replaced with teak doors, replaced original wash boards to eliminate the keyed one. Now beautiful with use of hinged doors and can still use the washboards in very heavy seas.
Added:
11) A/C (Webasto) issues
a. Forward cabin temp sensor location too close to return vent and too low causing A/C to turn off almost immediately even though temp is high. Relocated sensor and this fixed the issue.
b. Main cabin had on only two vents causing E2 alarm (frost buildup/too cold error). Webasto manual states minimum of 3 but recommends 4. Webasto service technicians diagnosed the issue (I called them when Bavaria failed to assist) and they corrected the issue even though it was not their issue (high praise for Webasto!!). I did not want to install a fourth due to loss of stowage under the settee.
c. Aft cabin had only one vent causing a hurricane sound in the aft cabin. Velocity so high guests could not sleep in there! Webasto manual indicated 2 minimum, recommended 3. Webasto service installed a second; really no way to add a third.
12) Head issues
a. Return waste from storage tank into toilet. Added a one way valve to correct the issue.
b. Electric button switch cover fell off.
c. Toilet too small for an adult. Will be replacing the toilet with a Raritan Elegance model with Smart Toilet Control L480 (for fresh & sea water control).
13) Design Issues / Safety Issues
a. Forestay plate on bow cuts mooring lines and if only one is attached, sends your boat afloat! Top of plate has a gap and the machined edge is so sharp it cut a new mooring line in less than 10 minutes. Bavaria claims this was my fault. Okay! Debured / re-machined plate, filled gap, new bridle system with PVC chafe guards... Now that I know of the design issue, (my issue) resolved.
Again, thanks! Hope this info helps and sorry for the rant over the new boat issues. But, love the boat and now that most issues are resolved, we can't want to start the next season (North Channel / Georgian Bay this year).
If you have a parts list for your car modifications, I would love to see that list! Need to fire up my machine shop for this one.
Thanks again,
Stuart
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Joining the chorus: this is a great idea. Though trying to organize the information seems daunting .. by year/model, engine type, etc. So many variations and then later modifications. Makes my head spin! I also thought some prose summary would also be useful if indexed somehow .. bought in following situation, found these problems, resolved them this way, etc., etc.
Ok ..
Bought Sympatheia (formerly Freya) in Vancouver in 2017. Used by a club as charter boat, was well used (over 3000 hrs) but seemed to run well and was in very good interior shape. Main issue on testing was pull of rudder while under motor, increasing with RPM. I posted here and no one seemed to have any similar issues.
On haul out the rudder was tight with no side or vertical play. Had the yard bypass the raw inlet in the saildrive foot and put in a separate thru-hull so as to avoid problem of marine growth in the saildrive causing overheating.
After purchase (complicated to get from Canada to US!) and as i took possession, it immediately overheated after being run for just a few minutes (berth to fuel dock). Fortunately there was a yard able to work on Volvos, and the found the heat exchanger was clear but the elbow was blocked. Replaced that and she's been fine. But still pulls under motor. Oddly, there was nothing in the raw water filter to suggest problems further up line, so this is still a mystery.
One other problem surfaced some months later when after pumping the waste water tank out i wanted to rinse it thoroughly to see if i could get the sender to work properly (it was stuck to "ON" due, most likely, to detritus conducting sensing current). After filling it up completely and opening the exit valve, nothing happened. The bottom of the tank had accumulated enough calcified junk that the exit was blocked. I managed to run a small diameter tube up from the through-hull and through the blockage, which broke the crud and allowed the tank to empty.
To fix the sender, I bypassed it (disconnected the wires) and taped a strip of bright LED lights to the side of the tank. An in-line button switch turns it on and shows level of waste in the tank.
So:
5(l) - blocked elbow on raw water
9(s) - fudged by using LED strip light
Rudder - Other: pulls to either side (starboard most strongly) when under motor, speed dependent
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I've stickied this thread and changed the subject slightly.
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B37Cr 2006
1(D) - dis-assembled hinges and found that the rubber seal was folded over prior to installation. Solution was to unfold & re assemble. Has never leaked since
2(j) - lower rudder bearing housing heavily corroded, Cause was copper based antifoul used around & on bearing housing
4(i) - minor debris in fuel line, before shutoff valve & filters - proposing to put another fuel filter immediately after outket form fuel tank
5(a) - have taken to antifouling inlet port on drive leg to minimise fouling
8(L) - no forward propulsion, when engaging forward gears - prop fell off - cause was incorrect installation by marine mechanic, when serviced
8(L) - Anodes on sail drive missing - cause was bolts not tighen sufficiently by marine mechanic, when serviced
9(s) - disconnected wires from sender unit, as temporary "solution"
9(T) - cause was filter not cleaned regulary
10(o) - lock dis-assembled, and reassembled with some minor internal modifications
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Odysseus
Bav 38
The only issue I have had is the blue strip on the coatchroof fading.
That's all.
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Bavaria 34 2000/1 2cabin
1 C, H, L
On this model,
The stanchions do not 'clip' into the toe rail, and were loose on purchasing boat 3 years ago.
Fixed by modifying stanchion bases (tig weld block to slight hook under toe rail)
Also Removed toe rail, OEM FOAM SEAL - crap (technical term) foam was a sponge and full of water.
Toe rail self tapping screws come loose and leak, letting rain water into a hardwood timber glassed into to of hull... this tracks the water to the lowest point in the hull / toe rail and leaks a distance from where the actual ingress is.
So after removing foam seal and replaces with butyl tape to seal the toe rail, this year I am replacing all 288 screws with countersunk bolts and nyloc bolts.
these seems to be a STANDARD PROBLEM, as where I have been sealing these leaks the previous owner has left his mark with silicon sealant :-(
Transom, removed and re-sealed all fittings inc back stays. was getting slight weep running into and around saildrive.
Cockpit floor, safety anchor's at companion way repeatable leak after 3months with heat expansion from running engine below...am going to remove.
I also, have either condensation or rain water ingress in the coach roof, which accumulated in the light fitting over the chart table over time.
I dry it with a tissue, and have no overflow for a couple of months in the winter. then it drips again.
Impavidus, Good question... thanks for your efforts..
As a engineer, I would say, that because of the 'production line' style of Bavaria yacht manufacturer and the other similar mass production boats - I am now not surprised I have these small on-going problems which in my case are all symptom's of these quick assembly methods.
A more traditional boat would be 'Nut ant Bolted' and not use self tapper screws but of course that type of assembly takes a lot of additional time - and therefore would cost more to produce...
My boat is of decent quality but I seem to spend more time on niggly little things that really shouldn't keep re-occurring, so I am beefing things up and improving on Bavaria's methods of doing things.
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Hi Ant,
Did you complete the article you were doing for BOA at the start of this thread, cos you mentioned about publishing it on this forum too?
Salty. No not yet. We have been really busy, but come April I am hoping to retire and sail away. I be filming and writing as we go. I put together all the stats and see what comes out of it
Ant
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Thanks Ant, but don't bank on having some spare time just 'cos you're about to retire !!
All that happens after retirement is that your body slows down while your mind finds more and more to keep you occupied, well that and everyone else who think you have nothing to do just because you are "retired" and so can you please help them out with some little project of theirs that needs finishing!!
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;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) @ Salty
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Oh No!
I thought that I might get some time for myself.
6 1/2 weeks to retirement and counting.
Mike
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Useful survey - thanks.
B32 (2002)
1l both brass nuts on caloriforer split
9i
9 u steaming lights and deck light failed together
No other problems in 4 years that were not down to my actions
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Bavaria 30 cruiser 2006
(2) E Seal failed after 200 hours replaced
(2) F Took weeks to find the water leak that appeared near the keel bolts replaced box with a plastic one water found its way from the rear of the engine bay to the keel bolts.
(9) i Fridge needed re gassing
(9) S replaced thermostat.
Hop this helps
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This is a great attempt to summarize problems and solutions. There might be more points added to the list while replies coming in.
My boat is a Bavaria 38/2003 being 10 years in charter and then purchased in 2013. Many things changed and/or added, but the basis is a very good boat, failure rate is rather low. Here my list:
(1) Water ingress (fresh)
c. Leaking stanchion(s), practically all of them where lose.
h. Leaking toe rail, in combination with (1) c.
i. Leaking fresh water pump (domestic)
j. Leaking hot water pipes, literally exploded due to overheat - thermostat set wrong
(2) Water ingress (salt)
j. Rudder stock or bearing, not leaking but replaced, because rudder was going hard. Lower bearing bed coroded.
(4) Engine running poorly
x. Water in motor bilge, because of leaking raw water pump
(9) Batteries and Electrical
e. Alternator fails (not charging), rectifier board defect
(10) Doors and Handles
h. Cupboard door sprung hinge fails, one hinge replaced
That's all
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Bavaria 35 Exclusive - 1997
1d rubber foam gasket leaking
1o binnacle instruments panel leaks because of foam gasket.
2i replaced 2018 with a plastic one by Vetus
9i replaced ventilated cooling plate with static one (no fan)
9q fore tank
9u digital hour meter failed, replaced with standard mechanical one.
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Four important beefs (2003 Bavaria 41)
Cabin light swiches continually fail
No conduits for important lines - simply laid behind panels where cannot be accessed.
Poor quality electrical connection with failures caused by corrosion of plated surfaces.
Deck leaks under stantion bases.
Regards
Aquapore
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Greetings all.
this is for Bavaria 33C - 2006 model (launched on 12/2006) and delivered to Cyprus.
Engine is D1-30 and so far 890hrs
Saildrive is SD130
InMast Furling
Blue Line fading and it's making the boat look really old!!
(1) Water ingress (fresh)
a. Leaking port-light - fixed with a smear of vaseline and good idea to do this twice a year.
f. Leaking chain plates - seems to be a general Bavaria Issue - small leak and fixed with silicon
j. Leaking hot water pipes - yes but stupid installation by local engineer. nothing to do with original install.
(2) Water ingress (salt)
e. Raw water pump (seals) - yes normal wear and tear, the seals were replaced. good idea to replace bearings as well
i. Exhaust leaking (Volvo type exhaust) - yes, as per normal wear and tear and engine overheated (see my post) as the elbow was starting to clog. This must be changed at some point.
j. Rudder stock or bearing - no issues, but seals needed to be replaced (nothing serious but good to bring it down and inspect and clean the bearing area (Teflon).
(3) Engine not starting
a. Battery flat (or battery problem) - Installed Sterling Alt-Bat charger and this keeps my batteries in top condition.
(4) Engine running poorly
Engine is vibrating somewhat more this year. Boat was launched 4th of April (last week). Either I forgot how noisy and un-smooth the D1-30 is or something not going right. No smoke coming out so all looks normal. I will dive soon to see if I picked up a drifting bag / rope.
(5) Over heating
d. Blocked heat exchanger - Yes, see my post.
e. Blocked injection elbow (water inlet not exhaust) - yes, as per above. not totally blocked but enough to cause overheating with combination of Heat Exch partially blocked.
(8) Sail Drive
g. Seal failure (water in oil) - no issues but replaced after 8 yrs as a precaution
l. Other (Please specify) - no issues on mine but I saw a Bav50 Vision with D2-75 not being able to put in reverse while coming to birth couple of years ago.
(9) Batteries and Electrical
l. Fridge thermostat (fail) - first thin someone needs to do: replace the damn thermostat with an electrical one and install a secondary cooling fan infront of the compressor.
(10) Doors and Handles / locks - cheap material but you get what you pay for.
Other Items that i included below:
-Selden Rodkick Gas shock replaced
-2 Volvo aluminium props changed
-all Hull fittings changed to Bronze in 2015/16 (main seacock failed and broke off at the thruhull while on hard trying to change the fittings.)
-Keel done with Adherpox / Aquastop numerous layers and going strong after 4 years, no signs of rust (lift out every 18months).
Generally very happy with the boat and engine. Nothing serious after 11 yrs of which 8 has been under my care.
ATB,
and hope the above helps.
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Bavaria 38 Ocean CC 2000
(1) a c,d
(2) d,e
(3) e,c,h
(4) nothing👍
5) f,g
(6) nothing
(7) nothing
(8) i, Saildrive “melted” due to electrolysis caused be short circuit in alternator😡
(9) c e,h,q,t
(10) a
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Many thanks to everyone who has contributed so far. Yngmar, ditto to most of yours on my old boat. Tiger, Ditto on my new boat. Craig Ditto both my Bavaria's. Bob yes. All known issues that come up. But still a lovely capable boat in 45 knots of wind? Shirley, Humm this keeps coming up. Scorcher IV, again same old same old. Symphony, thanks for that good input. Every one else, I thank you for your input, its bringing up just the data we need as a forum and Bavaria owners.
Guests and others. Dont just read this! Please contribute. There is a lot of data and info in this forum from every level of ownership, ability and experience.
Best regards.
Ant
Hi Ant,
Another point for (1)o, or for a separate heading is in regard to portlight and hatch acrylics crazing.
All my portlights and hatch acrylics on my B36(2002), are crazing like mad. However, I’ve noticed that where the original owner placed self adhesive non slip tapes across the hatch acrylics on the cabin top, that the areas covered by those tapes have not crazed at all. Another of the hatches had also been covered with some kind of transparent plastic film, and that hatch had also not crazed. The plastic film it had been covered with has over time broken down and looked a mess, but I was able to remove the remnants of the film without damaging the hatch acrylic.
I’ve since been working on a solution to the crazing of the acrylics, and also in regard to replacing of already crazed acrylics in a way that is neither so painful in the pocket, or as difficult as using those replacements that the original manufacturer has offered, but which has required a certain amount of DIY work. More about that though in another thread when I’ve put all of my experiences in this matter together and I’m ready to explain.
Follow up in Modifications and Equipment under Crazed Portlights and Hatches.
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Salty - good luck with the repairs and please write it up for us. I'll certainly be waiting as all mine look like crashed windscreens. I did actually consider buying a sheet of the stuff and cutting out/replacing them but finding the sheets locally isn't easy. Anyone else tried this?
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Salty - good luck with the repairs and please write it up for us. I'll certainly be waiting as all mine look like crashed windscreens. I did actually consider buying a sheet of the stuff and cutting out/replacing them but finding the sheets locally isn't easy. Anyone else tried this?
Acrylic or polycarbonate is widely available. Best local sources are signmakers which you find in most sizable towns. Also plenty of on line suppliers. wide variations in prices and quality but most will cut to size and some will cut and finish to template.
However, the crazing is only cosmetic and has no impact on strength or durability. Just the nature of the product when exposed to UV and obviously horizontal surfaces are affected more than vertical.
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However, the crazing is only cosmetic and has no impact on strength or durability. Just the nature of the product when exposed to UV and obviously horizontal surfaces are affected more than vertical.
Hi Symphony
That's interesting about the strength. I've had Figaro for 5-6yrs and when I bought her, the hatches were crazed enough to notice but also strong enough to stand on (which I did when flaking the main). Five years on, the crazing is like a 'shattered windscreen' and definitely flexes even if I put a foot on it. You may be right in that it won't break but it sure feels less robust than it did. I'm going to make some hatch covers once I've fitted new acrylics.
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Salty - good luck with the repairs and please write it up for us. I'll certainly be waiting as all mine look like crashed windscreens. I did actually consider buying a sheet of the stuff and cutting out/replacing them but finding the sheets locally isn't easy. Anyone else tried this?
The answer to your question Mark is yes, though I asked a plastics firm to do the machining for me, and the write up is now in Modifications and Equipment under Crazed Portlights and Hatches.
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Hi
Bav 44 2004
(1) a. Leaking port-light yes
c. Leaking stanchion(s) All. Two weeks on hardstand to remove entire teak toerail capping and rubbing strake to allow access to stanchion mounts and hull/deck seal and fasteners. Hull/ deck joint screwed together and most self tapping fasteners were leaking. Very poor workmanship on one side, the other was very good.
d. Leaking hatch yes, lewmar 500mm. Seal. Fixed with Vaseline/ petroleum jelly.
g. Leaking cable gland yes. Mast cable through deck
h. Leaking toe rail yes. See 1c
n. Sink. Yes, drain outlets. Rubber seal fails
(2) Water ingress (salt
h. Keel bolts yes. But I did hit a rock first. Poor repair in a yard. Done properly later.
(3) Engine not starting
a. Battery flat (or battery problem) yes
(4) Engine running poorly. VP D2-55 no issue
(5) Over heating
a. Blocked drive leg or water inlet yes. Lack of use and blocked sail Leg. Bypassed with new through hull.
i. Air locks to fresh water cooling. Yes. Cracked hose. And current unidentified issue.
(6) Gearbox problems. none
(7) Shaft drive n/a
(8) Sail Drive
g)yes, water in oil. seal failed at prop
(9) Batteries and Electrical
e. Alternator fails (not charging). Failed. 55A version. Replaced.
g. Batteries not holding charge (go flat in short time on low loads). Yes. New batteries
i. Fridge not cooling. Bloody Bavaria. Fridge constantly running. Drawing 6~8Ah. Eventually Replaced with BD50 and custom Chill plate. Still no good. Added insulation and much better.
Also, corrosion at rear of switchboard -connectors.
l. Fridge thermostat (fail). Maybe, but replaced due to high current draw. See 9i
m. Water Pump (cycles) when not in use. Occasionally. Haven't found the leak yet but suspect water accumulator tank/fitting.
p. Interior lights fail (other than bulb). Yes, switches failed.
q. Water tank level fails or shows empty when full. Yes. Senders gradually failed and a friend broke the gauge 'helping'.
Other) hot water thermostat failed.
(10) Doors and Handles
e. Cupboard door will not open (push catch). Yes. Replaced catch. Greased others
Other
Anchor chain (10mm) jams entering chain locker. Not enough fall to clear chain away from gypsy.
Anchor winch mounted too low, so chain jumps off gypsy.
Access to cable channel behind starboard lockers is very poor. Very small plywood access covers make stanchion fasteners and calbles very, very difficult to access.
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Folks. Just for your info I am watching this thread and do intend to do a summary with some numbers at the end of Sept- beginning Oct when we have more time and better internet.
Best regards Ant & Cid
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Thanks for taking this on!
Bavaria Vision 2007 (40foot)
(1) Water ingress (fresh)
a. Leaking port-light
b. Leaking window (fixed)
i. Leaking fresh water pump (domestic)
j. Leaking hot water pipes
(3) Engine not starting
a. Battery flat (or battery problem)
(9) Batteries and Electrical
a. Mains breaker fails or keeps shutting off
j. Fridge over cooling (constantly ices up)
r. Holding tank level shows empty when full
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Leaking port glass; applied grease lubricant and it seemed to clear up issue
Head pump failure; replaced part
Fire extinguishers; added traditional extinguishers
Shutoff for propane ; haven't addressed
2003 -36'
Sorry for not following your outline.
Thanks for your survey...
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Hi, good idea and well done for starting it up.
I have a Bavaria 42 Cruiser 2005.
Hope this helps.
1. a,j,k,l.
2. h,j.
3. No problems
4. i. - algae growth in diesel tank blocking the tap.
5. d,g.
6. No problems
7. Not applicable.
8. g.
9. e,g,i,m,s.
10. No problems.
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Further to my earlier replies, I’ve just had the following problem
9(a) mains breaker failure, see photo below showing burn through side of the breaker housing.
Note. When the breaker failed, it failed “safe,” shutting the electricity off. Checking the breaker by lifting the switch on the front allowed the electricity to flow, but only briefly until I let go the switch which then tripped immediately to the safe position.
Fortunately, and much to my surprise, after taking a note of the description on the front of the breaker (see second photo), I was able to find the identical item (except for the burn hole !) on eBay within a matter of minutes and priced there at £39.95. Fitting it this weekend hopefully.
For a vessel built in 2002 and initially used for ten years as a charter boat, I think that the longevity of the RCD was not bad at all.
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Hello all,
This is my first posting but I have been an avid reader for the last two years since acquiring our B 35E 1999. Many thanks to all who have provided plenty of help and tips to a new owner on this forum. I thought it would be useful to detail a failure issue I encountered in taking on a new to us boat, even though she had been well maintained by previous owner.
Coolant loss into sump - MD2030 Engine
Occurred this year following my decision to check the exhaust elbow and also clean the heat exchanger as part of annual service. Drained the coolant and removed the heat exchanger, cleaned and replaced. Removed exhaust elbow and noted port about 25% reduced with carbon. Soaked overnight in brick acid, washed and cleaned with small wire brush. Noted that the exhaust port facing on the heat exchanger housing also carbonised and cleaned with wire brush. Reassembled everything with new gasket and refilled with new coolant. Ran engine for a short while to check heat exchanger rubbers etc for leaks and all OK. On next visit to boat ran through usual checks prior to starting engine and found coolant very low and engine oil about 2 cm above top of max mark on dipstick. Using an oil remover pump quickly established where the coolant had gone!
Engine strip down required and with help from marine engineer we established the exhaust port on the heat exchanger housing was so corroded the metal had breached through allowing coolant into the exhaust manifold which found its way into the sump. I had failed to note how extensive the corrosion was and probably my cleaning efforts were sufficient to breach the already very thin metal. My engineer reckons the exhaust pipe to the wet muffler is a fraction too short and the angle a little shallow allowing sea water to run back to the exhaust when the boat pitching and the effect of salt water and hot exhaust gasses on the port over time lead to the corrosion. New section of exhaust fitted which is a better angle down to the the compartment floor and along to the muffler. Whilst an expensive repair at least it happened whilst on the pontoon and not at a critical moment at sea and now have a fully rebuilt engine with new heat exchanger housing/elbow etc. I attach photo of the old exhaust port - the bottom hole should not be there
- should be nice and flush! Also picture of new exhaust pipe - the old one (original factory fitting?) did not go right to the bottom of the compartment before turning to the muffler.
I know there are several posts about checking the exhaust elbow but my experience suggests it is also important to check the exhaust manifold side for corrosion as well.
Best regards
Mike
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2017 Bavaria 37 cruiser
1b - leaking windows. The long windows on the cabin sides (about 1500mm long) are plastic and the expansion is too much for the sealant to hold especially on windows facing the sun in the marina, which alternate between very hot during the day and very cold at night. THe sealant has failed at both the front edge and the joint between the front and back parts of the window. Multiple repairs by the dealer have been unsuccessful. The window should have been made of glass to avoid the expansion problem.
2c - the handle of the main 1/1/4" "bronze" sea cock for the toilet discharge just broke off in my hands after 26 months. The shaft appears to have been made of brass and not bronze, so it de-zincified. The rest of the valve looks new. Result - water comes in through the handle, requiring an emergency haul out ! Not impressed. Underwater valves replaced with the reinforced plastic Hansen valves.
10 l - The companion way hinges are basically some type of screw into the wood frame which come loose as a result of me leaning on the door when operating the cabin top winches. The problem is that you can get the doors off without hacksawing off a st. steel pin that holds the door from being lifted off the hinge pins. Will need to find a new type of hinge that is more robust.
Also - my latest problem is that the 6" plastic screwed access lid on the diesel fuel tank leaked and spilled 10 litres of fuel into the bilges. The lid was a bit loose, but it cant really be tightened enough without popping off. Wonder what the fix for this is??
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Canuck.
The door hinges are what can only be described as monkey metal. I made some for another subscriber from stainless steel 316L. Now retired and sailing the world I do not have the facility to make more. However, I posted a video that may help. the securing pins will pull out with mole grips and a strong arm. the link to the fab may help you it is here; https://youtu.be/WXPG6XaWvF8
Hope this helps.
Ant.
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Hi Ant - thanks for responding about the crappy hinges. the link you pasted goes to your video about the exhaust risers, not the hinge repair. Very interesting about the exhaust risers but with only 150 hrs on my engine, I HOPE I am a few years away from that problem. Does ,make me wonder if there is some type of flushing system that might prolong the life of the cast iron exh riser though? Salt away??
Anyway - would you mind posting the link to the hinge repair.
Many thanks
Nigel
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Here is the link to the hinge repair/re-make. Some other videos you may want to look at too; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIoqACL1Uqs
Sail safe and enjoy. Ant
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2015 Bavaria 41
Leaking window (surprise!). Thank you Ant for excellent instructions on how to repair.
Broken bow thuruster
Broken Garmin autohelm control unit and control head had to be replaced
Diesel and fluid leak from engine (still can't find out where it is coming from)
Jascbo tolied pump failure
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Jeff & Sue
Bav 38 Ocean 1998
Zephyrus
For us, this is the perfect boat for both today and into the foreseeable future. That said, it is 21 years old and though we have only owned Zephyrus a couple of years, we love her.
We started a similar list and budget at our purchase date broken down into EXPECTED wear & tear and maintenance vs. UNEXPECTED surprises. That said, this thread is excellent to compare our known issues with similar designs and vintages.
Of interest is even though our boat is pretty stock plus in clean shape, we found that this year our teak decks more or less "popped" and delaminated from the under deck. That falls into the EXPECTED category. Our autopilot lost its mind and now wonders in cicles but again, EXPECTED. Replaced headsail, again EXPECTED. Lifelines are getting rusty but all right on schedule as midlife problems, same with full nav package, water heater and hydronic heater.
The UNEXPECTED category has been all engine and related saildrive issues. We planned on a $10,000 extensive rebuild of the MD22L/120S-E at purchase date with 2000 hours on it and roughly 9500 miles on the boat. That repair crept past $20,000 insidiously once the boat was on the hard and more or less hostage. In hindsight a full repower would have been a far better option. 150 hours later it is inoperable.
All of these matters will be addressed as funds become available. We simply love our boat, how it cares for us on the water, how she sails. Most importantly she came with all of you as part of our community. Thanks for being part of a wonderful boat and a great life experience.
Jeff & Sue
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... most importantly she came with all of you as part of our community ...
+1, My thoughts exactly, Jeff & Sue. This site is the best 'optional extra' available. Should be a Factory Fit.
:)
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... most importantly she came with all of you as part of our community ...
+1, My thoughts exactly, Jeff & Sue. This site is the best 'optional extra' available. Should be a Factory Fit.
:)
You're right on Jeff and Mark, I couldn’t agree more.
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Guy's and Gals. Just for your info. We continue to monitor the failure survey. There is so much info here its becoming a great data base. We just seem to be so busy with our journey we have not had time to correlate all the great input. Keep adding it's a lot of info that at some point soon, hopefully we can do the numbers on.
Sail safe. Ant & Cid xx
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Ant and Cid and others.
I have posted a few times to the forum with various issues/queries and am amazed by the quick response times. Thanks all. Anyway, to the question at hand. We have a 2015 V42, second owners. Love the boat. In our short time with Vivia we have found the following issues. The factory installed house bank were Exide Start-Stop batteries, at the recycler now. The freezer, supposedly replaced under warranty, died within a couple of weeks. The fridge lasted one season and has died. We suspect the quick connect fittings on the fridge as our old boat, a Beneteau, had a 20 year old fridge of the same brand that never had a problem. Very hard to shift gears but this may be due to the interface to the fancy dock control joystick. Autopilot does the crazy right turn thing, will replace the pot this off season. Bow and (probably) stern thruster are improperly installed (factory job). Engine steams a bit at cruising RPM but doesn't seem to be overheating. Wiring seems excessively complicated (I'm an electrician) even with the factory wiring diagrams that another member provided, can't make any sense of them. They're in German which doesn't help. I think that's about it, not bad really.
Doug
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Doug. I would check the raw water flow on your engine as you should not have steam. There are 3 places that the water gets restricted in our experience. First place is the leg intake. Usually at top end of the the leg just before the waterway exits the leg into the shut off valve. Weed gets drawn in and sticks in the bend. It's hard to get out as you cannot get to the bend fully from either side. You can push a copper wire up the leg from the bottom turning it as you do so till it gets to the bend hooking the weed. Do this a few times and back flush from the inside with a hose. The second place is heat exchanger matrix. These get calcium buildup in the matrix that needs cleaning out every few years. the third is the exhaust elbow at the injection point. These get clogged pretty quickly just at the point where the water goes into the elbow. As Keweetoo has posted this can end up terminal for your engine. Take a look at these videos we did on YT that show how it can be really bad without you realising and one of the first symptoms can be a bit of steam..... Hope this helps. Regards, Ant.
Video links.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2xlr6FIzcc
https://youtu.be/WXPG6XaWvF8
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Further to Ant’s reply above, you can also get mussels and their shells blocking the waterway within the saildrive leg, so it’s a good idea during your lay up ashore period to fill the saildrive waterway with vinegar and leave it in there for a couple of days. This will soften and help to dissolve the barnacle shells and kill off any squatters that have taken up residence, but you will need to block up the waterway inlets in the saildrive or the vinegar will just run straight out of the bottom. See the photos below for the kit I used to block the saildrive waterways. The wood pads had some closed cell foam rubber stuck to them to make a seal, while the small bolt had a rubber grommet around it to form a seal which could be adjusted for a watertight fit.
Also, on my older Bavaria, a 36 from 2002, the sea water filter was, and still is, of a pretty poor design which allowed mussel shells to get past and through the cooling water pump to the entrance to the heat exhanger where they stopped and began to block the heat exchanger tubes. On top of that, the previous owner had not attempted to find the odd pieces of impeller blades that were occasionally lost, and these too were lodged at the entrance to the heat exchanger. I reckoned at the time that some 70 to 80% or more of the heat exchanger tubes were blocked by barnacle shells and pieces of the rubber impeller blades that had been lost during the time prior to me buying the boat. In consequence, and with insufficient cooling water actually going through the heat exchanger, I too had noticed steam in the exhaust outflow, but wasn’t sure if it was steam or white smoke until one day when the engine temperature alarm began to make a noise. Since then, and after removing all of the shell and rubber from the entrance to the heat exchanger, I have fitted an engine exhaust temperature alarm with display at the binnacle where I can watch the temperature.
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A topic for consideration Impavidus...
Lewmar Autopilot clutch failure. See post entitled "Lewmar autopilot clutch blowing fuses" and others relating to this topic.
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Lewmar Autopilot clutch failure. See post entitled "Lewmar autopilot clutch blowing fuses" and others relating to this topic.
+1
I just purchased a spare clutch from https://www.sgtransmission.com/
(Did not install it yet.)
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item 1i Domestic Freshwater pump leak
I have found that the water pump on my B32 occasionally runs continuously and drains the fresh water into the bilges. The source of the problem has always been the pump screw fixings on the under side of the pump need to be tweaked up and the problem is solved.
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I had trouble starting the MD2030 engine recently so decided to take a look at the electromotor. Looks like bendix gear worn and for good measure replacing brushes. If anybody needs, part numbers for Bosch electronotor, bendix.
https://hc-cargo.co.uk/catalog/p/230828--drive
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Hi Ant,
Thanks for taking this on.
For my 2008 Bavaria 34 C have had the following:
1C-just one stanchion has leaked to date
5L-original exhaust elbow failed due to blockage and extensive corrosion
9S-holding tank level shows 75% when empty
9U-multiple failures of stern boarding gate linear actuators, it is now raised and lowered manually
Kind regards,
Bruce
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Woow this is amazing one
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Bavaria cruiser 37, 2018
1k. metal pipe to water heater badly attached (from new!) Repaired under warranty by Bavaria dealer who reinserted the boiler rotated 90 deg from upright so that it did not work.
New topic: boiler heater problems: boiler giving intermittent hot heater. Repaired myself by rotating boiler to correct upright position.
New topic: rain water leaking from deck into stair gangway (from new) Repaired by packing rectangular deck fitting above with marine grease around the edges.
New topic: cooker (CAN Italian make). Push button igniter not working from new. Dealer avoided dealing with to and am seeking a matching alternative. CAN do not rely to my requests to suply a spare.
New topic: Radio: VHF fitted by dealer did not work. Fault was they forgot to connect the antenna.
New topic: bathing platform: manual platform becoming progressively stiffer to raise as yet no solutions offered to fix.
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Great list and I will add my two pence worth later. I've recently purchased a Bavaria 34 Cruiser (Built 2007 as a 2008 Model for the Southampton/London boat shows). I notice there is no mention of Rudder or Steering specific problems (that I could see other than salt water ingress).
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Also Deck and deck hardware (unless its water ingress).
Boat is a recent Purchase.
I've changed the Volvo Folding prop (you could wiggle the blades side to side, plus they were very pitted) for a Flex o Fold.
Rudder felt like it had a wobble freely turned (surveyor suggested tightening the top bearing, which I've done. Yet to take it out for trial.
The teak decking is lifting, wouldn't be so bad but the previous owner just screwed it down with non stainless screws which are rusting away and where not rusting, are a devil to remove as the heads are rounding.
Front Cabin door doesn't close properly surveyor and I have checked the bulkhead and all seems ok.
Rear cabin door handle faulty, I think its the spring to bring the handle back in position.
Exhaust elbow corroded (sea water restriction and blockage of heat exchanger by impeller bits and gunge. Removed the impeller bits and soaked the tubes in a litre of white vinegar (cost 56p) then cleared stubborn bits with curtain wire)
Exhaust pipe from elbow to silencer coming apart, replaced with new pipe.
Managed to loose a socket whilst working on the engine as I didn't realise there was a gap, unable to retrieve but prevented further loss by packing the gap with rags.
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2015 C46
8. l prop fell off, no reason
9. s, m
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Odysseus
Bav 38
The only issue I have had is the blue strip on the coatchroof fading.
That's all.
Use some facella polishing compound on it and it polishes up like new.