Recent Posts

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For someone with limited knowledge of electrical systems, especially the 301 panel on my 32c (2012), could someone provide a brief explanation of how to install 2 additional USB-C chargers? One should be located near the helm, and the other in close proximity to the 301 panel. Do I need an additional relay? Which of the F switches should I use? Where do I connect the positive and negative cables? Additional fusing on the cables? Etc.
As you can see, I need a basic course on this :)
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 Getting on a bit and with some failing health , its time to  pass on my pride and joy. A rare Ocean 47 (1 of 25) which  I have owned for 14 years. Its well  equipped with many upgrades over the years, lead keel option 1.7m draft . Sails well and comfortably and safely  - 10 knots  nt unusual. Engine VP 22TMD 2500 hours, 6kw generator 450  hours, full  instrumentation, solar panels , wind generator, electric sheet winches,  many spares including sails. ready  for bay hoping or ocean crossings. Berthed at Didim Turkey with transferable contract or willing to deliver within European waters. Contact me chris Haire on +905372994394 or hairechris@hotmail.com. I am on the boat until mid June and can let you view the boat.     
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Scuttlebutt / Re: New barometer from flea market
« Last post by jeffatoms2 on May 08 2024, 03:29 »
I too had great fortune to find an amazing ships' barometer last week on eBay.  It was made by Lilley and Gillie of London.  came from a ship wrecker/salvager in India presumably off a decommissioned commercial boat..  It cost me a total of $150 USD delivered by three day Federal Express (free shipping).  I've calibrated it and it is spot on accurate and big (7 inch diameter) to see from the galley.  A real treasure!
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Penta MD2030,exhaust elbow replacement
« Last post by Rapita on May 06 2024, 22:45 »
Thank you for your replies,my main concern is that I dont get any galvanic corrosion  on the heat exchanger  body, also that the construction of the casting is correct so that the cooling water does nt back feed towards the exhaust port.I think I will buy the non volvo part and save a lot of money.
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Followup #1

I'm going to ignore the old foam and black-white Sikaflex mix in the old window seal and try to go with a Butyl tape seal instead.

This is going to be somewhat tricky, as the surfaces do not really form a lap joint, as the stainless steel frame of the window is concave relative to the side of the boat - in short the joint is between a 1 mm stainless steel edge and the GRP plastic. A lap joint is preferred, as the sealing surface is larger. Presently in my view the stainless edge of the frame acts as a knife to whatever is put into the joint. So in this regard Sikaflex might even be a superior choice to fill the concave gap (see primitive drawing attached).

After completely cleaning the window frames (except for a moulded rubber sealing lip on the steel frame) I'm quite frankly appalled by the poor workmanship on this Rudgerson window. The window panel is so poorly cut that at points the joint between the moulded rubber lip and the panel is barely 1 mm. It looks like a 5 year old cut it out with a jigsaw. Terrible, just terrible. CNC machines excisted in 2001, that I know.

Secondly, the outside frame and inside bracket screw holes are seriously misaligned - obviously from the factory. The window fixing screws screw into stud-welded nuts, which are obviously broken on both my cabin portlights. The misalignment is 50% or more, eg. circles that should be concentric only meet 50%. I ended up re-welding one of the studs which was heavily misaligned and consequently broken off at its foot. Again, really terrible quality. My starboard portlight has been hacked too (bolts drilled all the way through) to obviously try and repair this misalign.

I have decide to replace the botched up old window panel and managed to purchase a leftover piece of UV-protected 8 mm polycarbonate sheet (which boat windows are made of usually). To confirm: the Rutgerson window panel thickess is 8 mm. I'm opting for a clear finish glass instead of the old tanned one to get more light into the otherwise dark cabin.

Images attached below. I'll post once I finish the repair.
 
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Update #6 - FINAL

Yesterday I finished my 2001 Bavaria 47 port side chainplate and tie rod install (99% of it). I've attached images of what the end product looks like.

I decided to install the deck mount with butyl tape, as an experiment, as it is a somewhat dynamic fixture and butyl tape can stay sealed under shear loads while Sikaflex cannot (once a threshold is passed). I understand that it is a matter of decision and preference somewhat.

Also, I was faced with the issue of how tight should the tie rod be? I had no tensiometers at hand and I ended up by tuning the tension by ear - yes, I tapped on the starboard rod, listened for the pitch and tightened the port rod until a similar pitch was heard. I confirmed the results with a smartphone tuning app, which surprisingly worked well. The starboard rod was resonating around 80 Hz at the E2 pitch.

The 0.1 % still left to do is tightening the two large M30 nuts to properly form an anchor-lock for the rod. I cannot fit two wrenches in the bulkhead bracket and I'll have to find a way to jam the upper nut so I can torque the lower one.

To conclude this topic, here is what I learned in short:
  • The chainplate-tie rod is well engineered and it is not an easy task to reproduce, as the steel used is not off-the shelf 304 or 316L type;
  • The rust I saw was superficial and the only pitting I saw was on the 304 steel M30 bolt: eg. rust seen on this setup is most likely not a red alert;
  • The plans I received from Bavaria do not include a torque or tension rating for the tie rod. What I concluded acoustically is that the factory installed starboard tie rod resonated around 80 Hz or the E2 pitch.
  • I would like to thank Bavaria customer support for digging up old plans (as shared in this thread) for a retail market customer, they could have very well said NO and I would have accepted this.

Thanks!
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Penta MD2030,exhaust elbow replacement
« Last post by Yngmar on May 05 2024, 14:27 »
I bought from parts4engines, who have a good reputation with such things. It was for an MD22 in my case, so just the small injector piece that always rots away on that engine instead of the whole elbow. Wasn't magnetic at least! :)
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Penta MD2030,exhaust elbow replacement
« Last post by marioxp on May 05 2024, 12:24 »
I bought it from aliexpress, the cheapest at the time, about 190 euros.  I have no complaints, but I have been using it for a short time, about 1 month.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Penta MD2030,exhaust elbow replacement
« Last post by Rapita on May 05 2024, 11:14 »
I am about to replace the elbow (corroded)with a stainles.steel unit,prices vary from 120£ to £300 approx.Does anyone have experience of purchasing these?The pictures often look generic,I dont want to buy a faulty one! Thank you in anticipation.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Volvo D1 30f compression test
« Last post by Diverphil1 on May 03 2024, 16:08 »
Hi, I would look at fuel starvation, slightly blocked somewhere, as if you had lost compression on 1 cylinder, i would think that you would notice the missfire and the engine bouncing about a bit.
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