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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Lewmar Integra Autopilot Drive (rudder sensor)
« Last post by jonmagowan@gmail.com on Today at 16:58 »Actually that’s a great idea. Thank you, I shall have a look tomorrow.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Lewmar Integra Autopilot Drive (rudder sensor)
« Last post by Yngmar on Today at 16:56 »Just look at the wires coming out of your drive unit. Most have one pair for the motor and one pair for the clutch. If there's no other wires, there's no position sensor.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Lewmar Integra Autopilot Drive (rudder sensor)
« Last post by jonmagowan@gmail.com on Today at 14:38 »Thank you. Yes, you are quite correct.
However, the system actually works most of the time. Also the autopilot accepted a rudder recalibration and consistently indicates the rudder position on the helm control (GHC 50).
For these reasons I’m sure that there is already a rudder feedback sensor in the system. I’ve had a look and I can’t see anything obvious (such as the Garmin device already mentioned).
This makes me think there is a sensor built into the drive unit.
Can anyone shed light on this situation ?
However, the system actually works most of the time. Also the autopilot accepted a rudder recalibration and consistently indicates the rudder position on the helm control (GHC 50).
For these reasons I’m sure that there is already a rudder feedback sensor in the system. I’ve had a look and I can’t see anything obvious (such as the Garmin device already mentioned).
This makes me think there is a sensor built into the drive unit.
Can anyone shed light on this situation ?
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Lewmar Integra Autopilot Drive (rudder sensor)
« Last post by Yngmar on Today at 12:12 »If your drive unit is not from Garmin (which have the feedback sensor integrated), then you need to add the GRF 10 rudder angle sensor.
Garmin clearly says so: https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=xWPnZYcgFY13z34jiPsX97
Garmin clearly says so: https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=xWPnZYcgFY13z34jiPsX97
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Lewmar Integra Autopilot Drive (rudder sensor)
« Last post by jonmagowan@gmail.com on Today at 08:11 »Bavaria 33 Cruiser 2013.
Autopilot Garmin 40 Reactor (brand new)
Lewmar Integra Autopilot Drive Sprocket Version (original). Motor, gears and clutch seem to be working fine.
Error message, as below…..
“Autopilot rudder miscalibration detected. Recalibrate the rudder”
My brand new Garmin autopilot is not working. It looks like it’s not getting correct position feedback from the rudder. I re-calibrated the rudder as per Garmin instructions but the fault persists. I’m trying to ascertain where the system gets the rudder position from. I contacted Lewmar and they say that they supply the motor, gears and clutch and the rest of the drive unit is nothing to do with them. My Garmin guy (who fitted the system) says there is no rudder feedback as part of the Reactor components.
I’ve contacted Garmin and SVB and am awaiting a reply from both of them. Does anybody else have any experience of this system and fault ?
Impavidus (YouTube) implied that there is a position sensor as an integral part of the drive unit (some sort of rotational potentiometer).
Any guidance gratefully received. Very expensive autopilot system totally useless at the moment and, as I’m sure you all appreciate, it really curtails the sailing experience!
Autopilot Garmin 40 Reactor (brand new)
Lewmar Integra Autopilot Drive Sprocket Version (original). Motor, gears and clutch seem to be working fine.
Error message, as below…..
“Autopilot rudder miscalibration detected. Recalibrate the rudder”
My brand new Garmin autopilot is not working. It looks like it’s not getting correct position feedback from the rudder. I re-calibrated the rudder as per Garmin instructions but the fault persists. I’m trying to ascertain where the system gets the rudder position from. I contacted Lewmar and they say that they supply the motor, gears and clutch and the rest of the drive unit is nothing to do with them. My Garmin guy (who fitted the system) says there is no rudder feedback as part of the Reactor components.
I’ve contacted Garmin and SVB and am awaiting a reply from both of them. Does anybody else have any experience of this system and fault ?
Impavidus (YouTube) implied that there is a position sensor as an integral part of the drive unit (some sort of rotational potentiometer).
Any guidance gratefully received. Very expensive autopilot system totally useless at the moment and, as I’m sure you all appreciate, it really curtails the sailing experience!
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Modifications & Equipment / Re: Rutgerson 370x164 mm portlight gasket/sealant question
« Last post by UP on May 28 2024, 09:00 »Yesterday I finished re-attaching the Rutgerson portlight - see images attached below.
I bought a warehouse leftover piece of clear UV protected 8mm polycarbonate sheet and cut out a much better fitting window panel into the stainless frame. Pro tip: use a small tooth jigsaw blade to cut the sheet in order not to chip the edges of the cut. I used a new metal blade and it worked perfectly.
I then used black Sikaflex to glue the panel to the stainless frame and then white Sikaflex to glue the portlight back in its mounting hole. Note: the original Rutgerson frame has two fixtures for the window panel, the outer Sikaflex seal and an inner molded rubber lip onto which the window panel seals. If you decide to replace your window sheet, then spare the rubber seal and do not mix it up with the identical looking Sikaflex mass.
The result is ... crystal clear
The window is better than before. I decided not to go for butyl tape as the gap between the stainless window rim and hull is large and to my feeling large gap filling is not what butyl tape is good for.
With that, I conclude this topic!
I bought a warehouse leftover piece of clear UV protected 8mm polycarbonate sheet and cut out a much better fitting window panel into the stainless frame. Pro tip: use a small tooth jigsaw blade to cut the sheet in order not to chip the edges of the cut. I used a new metal blade and it worked perfectly.
I then used black Sikaflex to glue the panel to the stainless frame and then white Sikaflex to glue the portlight back in its mounting hole. Note: the original Rutgerson frame has two fixtures for the window panel, the outer Sikaflex seal and an inner molded rubber lip onto which the window panel seals. If you decide to replace your window sheet, then spare the rubber seal and do not mix it up with the identical looking Sikaflex mass.
The result is ... crystal clear
The window is better than before. I decided not to go for butyl tape as the gap between the stainless window rim and hull is large and to my feeling large gap filling is not what butyl tape is good for.With that, I conclude this topic!
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Modifications & Equipment / Re: Remove / Turn / ReInstall interior door
« Last post by IslandAlchemy on May 28 2024, 07:31 »I've turned a few door around. Unscrew the door. Behind the hinges are 2 screw. There is also a screw inside the latch plate. Remove these and the frame will then push out (they are bedded in silicone). Simply turn the frame around and refit. Takes about half an hour.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Warped cockpit locker lid
« Last post by SYJetzt on May 26 2024, 18:33 »It looks as if the stop buffers under the lid are set much too high. If the lid is loaded, tensions build up on the vertical part and the result is the crack mentioned. The lid should rest on the bead in the hull below along its entire length. Repairing it is complex because the vertical parts of the lid in the area of the crack have to be reinforced with laminate. To do this, the old laminate has to be sanded down from the inside and reduced in thickness. Enough laminate has to be built up to reach the original thickness again. Due to the high loads, I would recommend carbon rovings.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Throttle Lever Seal
« Last post by AMG on May 26 2024, 16:36 »An alternative method to renew the throttle lever seal on a Bavaria 33 (2006) and other models, which does not require removal of throttle lever. Use neoprene roll, 8mm x 8mm, available from a well-known global website (£6.49 / 1.5 metres). Remove the old silicon first and clean with methylated spirit. Form a circle around the lever with the neoprene, and cut to approximate size. Check the final size of the circle and ‘mark’ and then make a final cut of the neoprene.
Note: it’s easier to join the neoprene at right angles with superglue. This will create a point in the neoprene circle, which you rotate to face downwards, out of sight. Fix the neoprene circle in place with sealant or an adhesive of your choice (or both).
Note: it’s easier to join the neoprene at right angles with superglue. This will create a point in the neoprene circle, which you rotate to face downwards, out of sight. Fix the neoprene circle in place with sealant or an adhesive of your choice (or both).
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Modifications & Equipment / Re: Remove / Turn / ReInstall interior door
« Last post by Happysailor on May 26 2024, 10:56 »On another boat type, our Bavaria Cruiser 41, we intentionally made the aft head door to turn inside. I have noticed on many charter yachts the hinges have broken out, as the door sometimes (when not fastened properly) swings out fiercely during sailing with the original fitting swinging to the outside. For this type, frame profiles are still available from the factory and door is turned upside down to fit again. If this could work for your 2006 Cruiser needs some additional investigation. But with some TLC it would be possible.