Bavaria Yacht Info
Member Forums => Bavaria Yacht Help! => Topic started by: marioxp on September 24 2023, 21:15
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Please help me.
Lately, my VP MD2030 often shuts off when I put the throttle from forward to neutral. I don't do anything different than before.
What can I do?
Mario
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Tick-over too low...??
If it runs well at high power and underload it can't be fuel starvation...
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Does it happen with and without the gearbox engaged? Push down the center button on the throttle lever to disengage the gearbox and then move the lever forward and back to throttle up and back to neutral a few times to see.
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Does it happen with and without the gearbox engaged? Push down the center button on the throttle lever to disengage the gearbox and then move the lever forward and back to throttle up and back to neutral a few times to see.
I have not noticed this happening when the gearbox is not engaged.
I noticed that there is also black smoke from the exhaust, but I didn't notice any loss of power.
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Oil level is okay I assume, or you would've mentioned it.
Air filter is clean? Black smoke is too much fuel (or not enough air), or bad injectors, but then you'd have a general loss of power.
Does the engine sound okay in idle or does it have a rough/irregular idle?
It's odd that it dies when taking it out of gear, if it was a low idle it would die when engaging gear.
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I'm not familiar with the MD2030 but could the throttle lever/cable on the injector pump occasionally interfere with, or nudge the the fuel shut-off lever as the throttle lever reaches its idle position..?
They're usually close to each other and if one became damaged or bent..? (a long shot I know, But...??)
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Oil level is OK.
Air filter seems OK to me, but I need to check the in more detail. (Are any of you using that mushroom air filter? what is your opinion, the original VP sponge filter is unreasonably expensive).
The injectors have not been serviced for years, maybe is a problem with injectors! But the engine runs smoothly. I haven't noticed any problems with handling the load. But when you rapidly reduce throttle, it seems that the revolutions drop too low.
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BTW, I started to clean the exhaust elbow, but I'm stuck with removing the hose.
Some advice on how to remove this thick and hard hose.
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I got ours off with a set of hose picks.
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Do you have the correct idle speed of your engine? It there any higher load from alternator ?
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I got ours off with a set of hose picks.
Thanks, I will try to remove the pipe from the muffler and try to remove it from the elbow in the cockpit, where I have a lot more room to work.
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Do you have the correct idle speed of your engine? It there any higher load from alternator ?
I think the idle speed is too low, although the engine runs smoothly.
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I would try to get the right idle speed and check, if the problem persists!
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Idle speed 850-900rpm
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Air filter is clean?
It's odd that it dies when taking it out of gear, if it was a low idle it would die when engaging gear.
correction: it goes off even when the transmission is not engaged.
Air filter is old, it even has a hole on the underside.
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I think that idle revs are two low.
How can I increase them.
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Take a look in the workshop manual page 57
https://bavariayacht.org/downloads/engine/Volvo_Penta_MD2010-20-30-40.pdf (https://bavariayacht.org/downloads/engine/Volvo_Penta_MD2010-20-30-40.pdf)
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That looks a bit low on the tacho indeed. There's a simple screw on the throttle lever that sets the lower limit. Check if it has moved (paint gone) before adjusting. They normally never need adjusting and you might just have another problem causing the low idle.
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My gap 6 is definitely not 3mm, but it is not clear to me whether I should adjust it with screw 7 or with screw 2.
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Idle speed is screw 2 (it's a lower end stop for the fuel pump). The one one seems to give a bit of space for the throttle lever to move when engaging the gear before throttling up.
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Today I called the Volvo service, that I noticed black smoke, that engine has between 3500 and 4000 working hours... I asked if they could do a gasket change on the engine or a general service if necessary.
My impression is that they are not interested in doing service. Because they immediately started saying that they were full of work, when I said that I could wait, then they suggested that I remove the engine and bring it to them. And in the end, the thing that really worried me was their conclusion that according to the number of working hours, the cylinder head is probably cracked and that it is most worthwhile for me to buy a new engine.
What do you think about this? Is the situation really that bad?
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Unlikely. I had a 2030 in a 2001 37 that did well over 3000 hours mostly on charter and was running as well at the end as when new. The secret is the type of use. If the engine is run for longer periods at working revs (2200-2600) and oil/filters replaced regularly you an expect a life of 8000+ hours. However sailboat auxiliaries are not often used like that. Short run periods, often at lower revs followed by long periods of inactivity are not good. The most common issue is the exhaust elbow which cokes up and suggest that is the problem with your engine.
The dealer it a cracked head is very expensive to replace - over £2000 just for the bare cylinder head and not worth it on an old engine. However, cracking is not common, although failure of one of the pre combustion chambers is not unknown but you would know about that as the engine would run roughly.
Suggest you go ahead with the exhaust elbow replacement using a new stainless one. If necessary remove the hose from the muffler if you can't get it off the elbow and replace with new. Suspect this will cure your problem with shutting down, although putting the tickover up is also good.
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I finally removed the exhaust elbow and clean it three days ago. Thank you all for the useful advice!
The elbow is in good condition, I am not completely satisfied with the cleaning because there are still some deposits left, but it is much better than before. I cleaned it with hydrochloric acid. I was careful not to leave the acid on too long so as not to damage the metal.
But there is no progress regarding engine shutdown. I drove the engine up to 3000 revolutions, it works nice and smooth.
I noticed a leak trace where the pipe meets the muffler, some rust and salt, so I put some glue for exhaust.
I don't think I mentioned, when motor is cold it's very hard to start, when it's warm there's no problem. I changed the glow plugs, I put bosch 0 250 202 089 and still the engine is hard to start. I checked the glow plugs, they get power but they don't heat up. (I felt them with my fingers and they are cold). 0 250 202 089 glow plugs should be compatible with the MD 2030!
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Did you measure voltage at the glow plugs? If they get power, they should get warm, else they're busted. They're pretty simple things. The part number you listed is for 12V, so should work.
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Yes, I measured the voltage, at the moment I turn on the glow switch, they receive electricity.
I can't believe that I destroyed it in the first time I started the engine. When I touch them they are cold. I ordered magneti marelli UC59a they work for sure.
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The heating element is in the very 'tip' of the glowplug and since you only power them up for 7-9 seconds it's not likely that you'll detect an increase in temperature at the other end so quickly...
A better way to test them is to disconnect them from power AND each other, then use a multimeter set to measure the resistance across each one individually..
Then check the ohms measured against the value specified by the manufacturer...
If they're in range they're very unlikely to be faulty......
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As described above, check the resistance in the glow plugs. If you have some spare battery cable you can try replacing it and try with a battery closer to the engine. I had a similar problem on a Perkins and was gradually getting weaker starts until i replaced the cable.
Cylinder head cracking is common but rarely a case of major failure of the engine. If you can, try a compression test to see what you have. Might be one valve/seat in bad condition or at least you can eliminate the need of a rebuild.
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I am not familiar with the detail of this engine, or if it has any safety shutdown systems. However, I once had an engine that would do this if I slowed down too quickly. It triggered a low lube oil pressure automatic shutdown.The low oil viscosity at high temp, combined with low lube oil pump speed on rpm reduction can give low pressure, enough to cause a shutdown. There should be an alarm , but perhaps ?? If this is an issue, an oil change, (in case of diesel contamination), would help, or looking again at the grade used may be worthwhile. In older engine will have a lower lube oil backpressure than original spec., so revisiting oil SAE may be an idea? But perhaps it is something else entirely.
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The worst possible scenario happened!
After the condition did not improve after cleaning the exhaust elbow i contacted the mechanic.
At first, he thought it was the injectors, and yes, none of the three injectors were working properly. He ordered new nozzles and replaced them.
He turned the pistons and noticed antifreeze in the cylinders! We hoped that only the gasket was damaged, but the cylinder head has cracks in three places.
Cylinder liner has erosion damage, but this can be solved by replacing the cylinder liner.
The idea is that we go for a complete repair of the engine, pistons, bearings, valves, cylinder liners, cylinder head...
The only problem is that I can't find the cylinder head. Do you know where it could be purchased, does anyone produce a cylinder head for the Volvo Penta 2030D?
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Honest opinion. Don't waste any money on it. The engine has been out of production for 20 years so you won't get a new cylinder head. Only hope is a secondhand one from either another Volvo or its Perkins equivalent. Replace it with a new D1 30 complete with a new saildrive and recover some of the cost by selling the old saildrive which fetch good money.
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I agree...
We replaced our old VP 30hp with a Beta 30, (Kubota based engine) and recovered £900 by selling the old engine....
Similar situation to yourself, Block and cylinder head corrosion, but the bloke who bought the old engine only wanted the 'moving parts' as his engine had seized up due to oil starvation..... You'll not regret changing the old lump....Bill... :)
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We were in same position and carefully costed the options - full strip and rebore, cylinder head refurb etc. v new engine (either VP D1-30 or Beta 30).
We came to conclusion trying to keep the old lump going for a few more years would cost more than 50% cost of new, and there are still pleanty of things that can go wrong - water pumps, altenator etc. We had a Beta 30 fitted and now look forward to many years of not having to worry about the engine. Not only will new engine give peace of mind it will enhance the boat when you do come to sell on and enable you to achive top of range price for the year. Sold old for £500 to chap who wanted the working parts (heat exchanger etc). Also suggest if intending to keep boat in the long term you look at swapping engine and saildrive as a unit.
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If you can afford a Beta repower, go for it. If not you can maybe find a 500+ USD replacement head with minor cracks at best. Then you need a major overhaul which will be expensive in most places. For example i can source a 500 USD head (minor cracks already) + shipping which can maybe last 2-3 years more. More reliable parts (with warranty) go for 2000 USD + shipping. A new engine with all the bells and whistles will reach around 9000.
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Just a bit of a warning about repowering with a Beta. While the engine is excellent (I have one) mating it to a 120 drive that is 20+ years and 5000 hours old is not a good idea. If the drive fails replacements are not available new neither are they rebuildable. A new 130 drive is approx £5k and a used 120 sells typically for £12-1500. The drive that Beta use in their package is not without problems and not as robust as the Volvo 130. There is very little difference in price (at least in the UK) between a Beta and a Volvo and to my mind it makes sense to replace with a complete D1 30 and new 130 drive package. Virtually straight swap and you can use the same propeller.
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Just a bit of a warning about repowering with a Beta. While the engine is excellent (I have one) mating it to a 120 drive that is 20+ years and 5000 hours old is not a good idea. If the drive fails replacements are not available new neither are they rebuildable. A new 130 drive is approx £5k and a used 120 sells typically for £12-1500. The drive that Beta use in their package is not without problems and not as robust as the Volvo 130. There is very little difference in price (at least in the UK) between a Beta and a Volvo and to my mind it makes sense to replace with a complete D1 30 and new 130 drive package. Virtually straight swap and you can use the same propeller.
Just to clear something up....
When we replaced the old VP 30hp, we did mate it onto the existing 120 type saildrive, partly because when we commissioned a pre-purchase survey, the surveyor noted that the 120 was much younger than the engine....
As the old engine was low hour, and had simply succumbed to the corrosion that the raw water cooling system had inflicted.. We decided to keep the saildrive..
To avoid the type of future issues mentioned by Symphony2 we shipped the saildrive to BETA for inspection and for them to mate the new engine to the saildrive in the factory..
This they did to ensure a proper fit, then test run the complete unit, separated them and shipped the new B30 and 120 back to us for installation..
They even sprayed the gearbox the same red colour as the engine....
This was done at minimal expense.......Great service from BETA MARINE..
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Thank you all for your advice,
Mainly for two reasons, the beta is a completely unknown engine in my area, and the second reason is my budget.
I found the cylinder head at a Perkins dealer. The head is not new, but it is in very good condition. The price is acceptable to me, around 700 euros.
It's a Perkins 103-10 cylinder head the dealer says fits the MD2030D. Should I worry about compatibility?
Mario
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I believe that should work. Perhaps you could ask another dealer just for advice even though they don't have a cylinder head. Just for the peace of mind.