Recent Posts

1

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Centre cleat installation

« Last post by N44rag on Today at 18:11 »

Started with fixing two pad eyes today while waiting for the delivery of the correct size tapping drill for fixing the midship cleats.

Pleased to say that I found the aluminium plates that are moulded into the deck under the pad eyes as well and was able to tap a 6mm thread into those for the machine bolts. I would not have been able to get a back nut on those bolts without stripping out the joinery cupboards, so very pleased to have found the plates.

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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger

« Last post by symphony2 on Today at 18:05 »

If you have a standard prop you should get about 5.5 knots at 2200rpm. I had the same engine in my newer and heavier 33 and found 2200 the sweet spot.

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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger

« Last post by Diverphil1 on Today at 17:37 »

Symphony 2, I forgot to mention usually a 5 minute burst at full belt at the end once the sails were down and heading back to channel entrance, it was more the cruising revs I was concerned about.  Will start giving it a bit more.
Thanks
Phil

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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger

« Last post by symphony2 on Today at 11:30 »

No that is the very worst way to treat a small marine diesel. They need to be run hard and for long enough to get hot. Cruising for a D1 30 is 2200-2400rpm with occasional bursts up to at least 3000rpm - you should be able to get close to 3200rpm at maximum. To give you an idea the difference it makes to run hard, I had a 2030 in a 2001 37 used as a charter boat which did typically 600+ hours a year mostly at 2400rpm. It was still on its original exhaust elbow when I sold it with 3500 hours on it.

Clearly you can't replicate that with a weekend leisure boat which does typically less than 100 hours a year, but you can help by raising the rpm and particularly the short bursts at close to maximum.

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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger

« Last post by IslandAlchemy on Today at 08:41 »

Around 2/3 - 3/4 of WOT rpm is what you need to run at to keep it clean.

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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger

« Last post by Diverphil1 on Yesterday at 18:48 »

The new parts have been fitted and it's been run up and seems to be OK, no leaks and no fog,
I have been running this at between 1800 and 2200 rpm when we have used it(other than 15 minutes out and into the marina) is that rpm about right for keeping it free of carbon as I would like to avoid this happening again. Or should I be running it harder. 🤔

7

Modifications & Equipment / Re: Solar Panel Installation Photos

« Last post by Medvind on Yesterday at 13:44 »

Craig - could you please explain how you have laid the cables from the solar panel to the battery? Going to do it on a 2009 34 cruiser now. It seems that much of the 34 and 38 are similar.

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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Centre cleat installation

« Last post by SYJetzt on Yesterday at 10:10 »

Always nerve racking drilling holes in boats!

You're not going to drill them below the waterline, are you?

9

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: installation autopilot linear drive to steering quadrant Ocean 47

« Last post by blue-max on Yesterday at 09:47 »

That's was my original idea - using  a pair (for strength ) old con rods (landrover almost right size for shaft) but still an issue  of distance of travel and snagging.Hoping somoe hs done it and can send some photos

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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: installation autopilot linear drive to steering quadrant Ocean 47

« Last post by symphony2 on May 19 2024, 23:22 »

Suggest you look at using a separate tiller arm for the drive rather than the quadrant
jefa.com/steering/products/rackandpinion/tillerlever.htm