Recent Posts

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31
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger
« Last post by Diverphil1 on May 02 2024, 09:53 »
 IslandAlchemy, yes it looks that way, with elbow and joints paint etc the full unit is  2150, have ordered it and broke the bank for this year, but also wondering if its worth repairing if there so good a rotting away, it will be coming off regularly in the future, and i will be able to see how the water gets in on the new one, there may be a way of modifying to help stop this happening if i can work out what's causing it, as there is no corrosion on the tubes or the mating surface groove for the o rings. leaving me thinking a longer inlet to move any water splash back further down 
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger
« Last post by IslandAlchemy on May 02 2024, 07:56 »
Welcome to the wonderful world of VP heat exchangers. They are rubbish, and eye-waterlingly expensive unfortunately.

Looks like you're going to need a new one and a new exhaust elbow too.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger
« Last post by Diverphil1 on May 02 2024, 06:20 »
Yes it's blocked to about 20mm hole in the middle. But that doesn't now surprise me after reading up on it,
Had the boat a couple of years and thought it's one of the 4 or 5 yrs jobs as suggested 🤔
Looking at it ,it must be the first time ever been off. No tool marks on the flange nuts or intercooler hex bolts.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger
« Last post by Yngmar on May 01 2024, 18:42 »
That looks quite rotten, although things like this have been fixed, most workshops will say no. All depends on you finding (or becoming) someone with the right skills! :)

Stainless Bob in Brighton can probably do it.

What does your exhaust elbow look like? Blocked up except for a small hole?
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / D1-30 heat exchanger
« Last post by Diverphil1 on May 01 2024, 11:12 »
 :( so, we have the usual problem of corrosion on the outlet. I went to do the service and decided to clean out the exchanger, after removing the elbow found a bit of corrosion so poked around a bit to reveal the damage. The reason for doing it was the bolts to the exhaust still had paint and no spanner marks,also the Allen bolts on the rear hadn't been touched. Anyway the damage is done and needs fixing, has anyone managed to get a good weld repair when they are holed through to the coolant drain area as in the photos
Or is it destroyed and needs a 2k new bit.

Next question is the cause, after speaking to volvo they say it's the o ring's causing it to let sea water into the coolant. Every one on Internet suggests its back splash from the exhaust being blocked a bit with carbon. To be honest I can't see how water from whare the o ring seats getting to the bottom bit that's corroded. 🤔
How is the water injected into the exhaust, is it just a straight hole into the exhaust pipe or does the casting have a separate water gallery so it enters the exh flow further down the casting than whare the inlet is. (I've not seen a new one to check)
Regards
Phil
 
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: 110 vac hot and neutral reversed
« Last post by battuta on April 30 2024, 15:43 »
I have discovered I have this same issue on my 2009 Bavaria 31 Cruiser…

Can anybody offer any further perspective or advice on this?

Thx.

R
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / English Bavaria 46 Cruiser owers manuel?
« Last post by tim offer on April 30 2024, 09:40 »
I have recently bought a Bavaria 46 Cruiser 2019 and am looking for an English version of the Owners Manuel and wonder if you can help please?
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Scuttlebutt / Re: New barometer from flea market
« Last post by Yngmar on April 30 2024, 09:18 »
Looks nice, but a very strange scale indeed! 10x Torr (mmHg)? Germany switched to SI in the 1970s, using hPa or millibar  ;D
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Scuttlebutt / New barometer from flea market
« Last post by sy_Anniina on April 30 2024, 08:13 »
Just to share my latest find from flea market to improve boat interior and functionality.

A German-built boat for sure deserves a solid brass German language barometer - see photo for details.

BR,

Tommi
s/y Anniina
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I used the masking tape as suggested as well and it depends how clean you can work. Last time I did it in 1 go, masking the seams and trimming the tape exactly to the shapes with a Stanley knife. It also can be done in 2 steps. The compound is still fresh and will easily connect in the 2-step seem.
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