Recent Posts

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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger
« Last post by symphony2 on Today at 11:30 »
No that is the very worst way to treat a small marine diesel. They need to be run hard and for long enough to get hot. Cruising for a D1 30 is 2200-2400rpm with occasional bursts up to at least 3000rpm - you should be able to get close to 3200rpm at maximum. To give you an idea the difference it makes to run hard, I had a 2030 in a 2001 37 used as a charter boat which did typically 600+ hours a year mostly at 2400rpm. It was still on its original exhaust elbow when I sold it with 3500 hours on it.

Clearly you can't replicate that with a weekend leisure boat which does typically less than 100 hours a year, but you can help by raising the rpm and particularly the short bursts at close to maximum.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger
« Last post by IslandAlchemy on Today at 08:41 »
Around 2/3 - 3/4 of WOT rpm is what you need to run at to keep it clean.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: D1-30 heat exchanger
« Last post by Diverphil1 on Yesterday at 18:48 »
The new parts have been fitted and it's been run up and seems to be OK, no leaks and no fog,
I have been running this at between 1800 and 2200 rpm when we have used it(other than 15 minutes out and into the marina) is that rpm about right for keeping it free of carbon as I would like to avoid this happening again. Or should I be running it harder. 🤔
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Modifications & Equipment / Re: Solar Panel Installation Photos
« Last post by Medvind on Yesterday at 13:44 »
Craig - could you please explain how you have laid the cables from the solar panel to the battery? Going to do it on a 2009 34 cruiser now. It seems that much of the 34 and 38 are similar.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Centre cleat installation
« Last post by SYJetzt on Yesterday at 10:10 »

Always nerve racking drilling holes in boats!
You're not going to drill them below the waterline, are you? >:D
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That's was my original idea - using  a pair (for strength ) old con rods (landrover almost right size for shaft) but still an issue  of distance of travel and snagging.Hoping somoe hs done it and can send some photos
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Suggest you look at using a separate tiller arm for the drive rather than the quadrant
jefa.com/steering/products/rackandpinion/tillerlever.htm
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 I now have a short shaft Raymarine linear drive autopilot. I am a bit baffled by the way its going to be fitted. The steering quadrant is very  high up  and the only possible space for the drive looks to  be in a lazarette. I have got another quadrant which  I though to  fit to  the rudder shaft lower down but there is a problem with snagging the steering cables. Has any one done this installation?
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Centre cleat installation
« Last post by N44rag on May 19 2024, 19:36 »
Ok thanks, I’ve just checked the holes in the cleat and it seems an M8 bolt will do the trick, just need to establish the length now.

Always nerve racking drilling holes in boats!
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Centre cleat installation
« Last post by symphony2 on May 19 2024, 11:59 »
no need to dismantle the interior if the plate is moulded it. It almost certainly will be as the mid cleats were optional and the deck moulding common. Check with something like this screwfix.com/p/magnusson-3-in-1-material-detector/3062x Butyl tapes is commonly used for sealing although you can use Sikaflex if that is what you have.
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