Bavaria 38 (2003) Jib Furlex System

[simonmoore]

Hi, the Furlex drum on my B38 has failed.  I have a Selden owners manual on board which covers the 200s or 300s.  Could anyone please advise whether it is the Selden Furlex 200s or 300s which is fitted to the B38?

[tiger79]

The model number (200S or 300S) is moulded in the top of the line drum.

[Moodymike]

My B32 has the 200 I would have thought a B38 would be a 300

[Salty]

On my B36 and on a friends B37 it is the 200s that is fitted, so I'm inclined to think that as the B38 is not much larger, it is likely that the same size Furlex equipment would be fitted there too.

[Spirit of Mary]

My BAV 38 2003 uses also the 200s.
The BAV 39 2006 uses the 300s.
The 38 to the 39 is the step in larger Furlex
Regards,
Ger

[simonmoore]

Thanks everyone.  I can confirm it is indeed the 200s. 

[Salty]

When you say your Furlex has failed, do you mean some part of the system has broken, as you may just need a spare part to get it working again? Or, does it jam up when you come to use it, particularly when wanting to furl your foresail?

[singlefish]

i have the furlex 200s too on my b38 2003 , have found through experience that if you do not religously let line out hand controlled to the very last when unfurling , you can get a wrap inside the drum for reasons unknown to man , rope seems to go backwards then forwards and jams underneath plastic guide inside , thus jamming whole thing up , looking on bright side , if you do let out carefully , you can furl again  , even by hand !!! , if your big like me .


We dont appreciate how lucky we are with our b38s , I raced a friends Jeanneau , 1stly against him in 22 mile beat in f5/6 , beat him by 40 mins ! , then raced a further 3 days on his boat , to discover why , everything was a herculian task , nothing could be done without winching , not even the traveller !!! , no backstay , could physically pull main in enough to flatten it (too many 45 degree turns through bits of metal with holes ) Jib winches undersized and you had to face aft to trim ! , and off course no way of hand pulling furler even in lightest wind with no tension , lovely boats otherwise .

Just shows how much attention bavaria put into the boats ergonomics , everything works !

[MarkTheBike]

...rope seems to go backwards then forwards and jams underneath plastic guide inside , thus jamming whole thing up...

+1. However, I get the problem even when letting out by hand. After much investigation I discovered that the furling line can work its way under the plastic guide arm so the arm jams the line as you're trying to pull it back through the drum feed hole. Let the line go slack and push it back under the retainer with a finger, or (yep, really) a chopstick works well. I am contemplating cutting the plastic arm off as it happens too frequently for my liking (and mainly F5+).

[singlefish]

you sure you are not even just letting last wee bit go or letting it run out too fast ,that i found enough to cause problem as you have eloquently described exactly which also will  happens with mine if not very carefully fed all way out .

since i realised this and been very carefull , hasnt happend , touch wood ,

I did consider removing the plastic bit inside too as cant see what you would loose other than potential problem , though a slack line could drop through gap between and outer i spose .

[Moodymike]

I had a jam happen last season and had to let go sheets and turn in a circle to wind in enough. Not a good experience, first time it has happened,am consciously watching the tension whilst unwinding.

[singlefish]

nice to know halberg rassey's should have same prob , same furler

[MarkTheBike]

...you sure you are not even just letting last wee bit go or letting it run out too fast...

Hi Singlefish

hahaha, no. As soon as I twigged what the problem was, I was really careful to keep a little tension on the line but it still happens (not as much as before though). I think the problem (with mine at least) may be the luff shivering when tacking. It's just enough to twiddle the line under the guide. Perhaps a small shockcord to keep a bit of tightness, or just take off the chrome cover.

[Salty]

When you hoist your foresail, it is important that head of the sail goes as far up as possible in order that the angle between the forestay and the topping lift for the sail is maximised. If your foresail was cut a bit short, do not be tempted to hoist the sail only as far as the connection of the tack to the connection on your Furlex will permit. To do so reduces that all important angle, and the consequence of this is to increase the possibility of the topping lift getting wound around the foil that fits around the forestay. When that happens, usually when attempting to furl your foresail, the system jams up and you then cannot furl the sail. Much better to hoist the sail as high as it will go, and to use either an extra shackle or two, or a small line passed several times around between the tack on your sail and the connection on top of the Furlex drum that is provided for the tack. Try it, and make life easy.

[Konan the Bavarian]

We had a similar problem on our b37 2006, where the headsails were of different luff lengths.
What is important is that the top swivel (that the halyard attaches to), is raised as high as it can go, to prevent halyard wraps as Salty has described.
To do this, we use a dyneema strop attached between the head of the headsail and the top swivel so that  the swivel can be raised as high as it can go, and the tack can still be attached directly to the furler drum.
Works a dream!

[Salty]

Yes, that's good too Konan, it also keeps the centre of thrust on the sail that bit lower which makes the boat that bit less likely to get knocked down in a gust. You just have to get the length of your dyneema strop right with a little trial and error and away you go, that's good.

[Mirror45184]

Jamming of teh furling line may actually be due to the following.
When unfurling; winding the furling line onto the drum the furling line will wrap with multiple layers.
When furling the jib, if the line/wraps are loose the tensioned line can "pull" under looser top layers. This in effect forms something similar to an override on a winch.

So when unfurling keep tension on the furling line so it wraps in tight "solid" layers. I generally put a turn on a winch and ease the line out to ensure it packs properly.
Cheers
Mark
SV Synergy
2009 B40

[stardust]

I use a leather glove and keep tension on the reefing line as it unfurls.to prevent a riding turn in the drum.In 15 years weve had some trouble every season.Why seldon make it so complicated I dont know

[MarkTheBike]

I had a closer look at mine last night - I note that the guides on both sides stand away from the drum. I haven't been able to compare it to another 200 but that doesn't seem logical to me. Surely, the springs should keep the guides in contact with the drum, ensuring there's a constant slight tension on the line as it's winding onto the drum? It wouldn't matter how fast the jib unrolled itself, the line would always be tight and there'd be no 'overshoot' (and no scorched fingers...)

Cheers

[Mirror45184]

Hi Mike, the guides are only that the key to preventing the line "submerging" itself is to keep each layer of the rope wound on to the drum reasonably firm. The reason why I put one to three turns on to a winch is so I do not burn my hands! The number of turns is proportional to the wind speed!
Cheers
Mark