Sticky Throttle/ Morse Control Cables?

[Lazy Pelican]

We have a B39 2006.
Our Gear/Throttle Lever is quite stiff. I've loosened off the friction control screw, which has helped a bit, but going from Forward or Reverse into Neutral is still more effort than it should be. The next step is to investigate, or simply replace the Morse Cables.

1. How does one remove the cable from the Lever at the Pedistal and the Control Rods at the Engine?   
    Access to the Pedistal Cable looks particularly difficult.
2. The cables are original VP stamped as follows:
    Reverse- 1140190-05 75m 0602. From the connection at the engine this should be the shorter   
    cable.
    Forward- 1140188-05 25M 0607.
    Can anyone explain what the above means?

Any advice from anyone who's replaced their cables appreciated.

thanks,
John

[Domi409]

Hi, I changed my cables on my 2006 B37C last year after the clutch cable got broken due to corrosion on the lever side.
I shared the cable change process on H&H in French as below:

J'ai démonté mes câbles aujourd'hui, je vais remplacer finalement les deux, y compris celui qui n'est pas cassé, par des câbles avec gaine Téflon, plus faciles à faire circuler.
Voici la méthode utilisée pour changer le câble d?embrayage:
- Débrancher les deux câbles, embrayage et accélérateur côté moteur. Il faut libérer complètement les câbles et les gaines.
Libérer tous les colliers qui retiennent les gaines tout au long du cheminement des gaines jusqu?au boitier de commande. J?ai trouvé des colliers sous la couchette tribord, dans le cokron derrière la couchette tribord et au dessus de la couchette tribord une fois enlevée la plaque d?accès au secteur de barre.
- Une fois les gaines libérées, il faut libérer le boitier de commande: Oter le cache plastique collé dans l?axe du levier, ôter le picot plastique pour accéder à l?écrou (clé de 17) et ôter le levier de commande extérieur. Il vient tout seul, pas besoin d?arrache moyeu.
- Pour ôter le boitier, il faut d?abord ôter le panneau d?instruments devant la barre. On a alors accès aux quatre écrous qui correspondent aux quatre têtes de vis placées autour du levier. Attention à ne pas perdre les écrous, une clé à tube de 8 est nécessaire. Dans mon cas, il y avait aussi des rondelles entre le boitier de commande et le polyester. Elles sont difficiles à retenir?
- Il est recommandé de démonter le panneau des instruments moteur pour faciliter le passage des câbles. Il n?est pas nécessaire de démonter la barre, on y arrive sans.
- Maintenant que les câbles et que le boitier de commande sont libres, on peu tirer le boitier vers le haut pour le faire sortir. c?est plus facile à deux, un à l?intérieur qui pousse les câbles, un à l?extérieur qui tire sur le boitier.
- On a maintenant accès au système de verrouillage des câbles sur le boitier de commande!

It is some work but nothing difficult. Beware she washers when removing the lever, mines were between the pedestal and the lever mechanism.
Important thing is to release both cables from the engine side and release them completely all way long. Then the lever can be lifted out, after opening the instrument panel. It then gives access to the cable locking mechanism on the lever.(see drawing).
If translation issue, please ask.

The references of the cables are the Volvo references. Important thing is the length: Reveres: 5,75 meters; Forward: 5,25 meters. You can change both cables by similar cables of the longest lengths, even a bit longer, non Volvo references are usually in feet.

Dominique

[Lazy Pelican]

Hi Dominique,

My French isn't very good and I can't find a way to paste your text into Google Translate, but as I understand it I need to remove the Gear Lever and Control Assembly, in order to change the cable?

John.

[Domi409]

Hi John,

The control lever cannot be moved without releasing the cables. It is almost the last step.
To do that:
1: Release the two cables at the engine side, one on the gear box on port, the second on starboard for the gas control.
2: follow these cables all along and release them everywhere they are attached. They need to be free to move when the lever will be lifted. They are below the starboard bed (I have a 3 cabin version, with 2 cabins, look below the bed behind the engine), then go behind the cabins, then turn up to go to the pedestal. I had to open the plate on the ceiling of the starboard cabin to detach the cables there as well.
3. Remove the lever, by first removing the glued black plastic cover and little pin (visible on the pdf attached)
4. Open the pedestal instrument panel to be able to reach the 4 nuts (corresponding to the 4 screws visible around the lever)
5. The lever system can then be lifted up, assuming that the cables are free to move up as well. Then you can change them.

Dominique

[MarkTheBike]

Dominique - many thanks for the information, much appreciated

John - herewith, Google Translate (uncorrected, I'm afraid, but still usable):
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I removed my cable today, I will eventually replace the two, including one that is not broken, by cables with Teflon sheath, easier to circulate.
Here is the method used to change the clutch cable:
- Disconnect the two cables, clutch and accelerator engine side. It must be completely free cables and ducts.
Release all clamps that hold the ducts throughout the routing of ducts to the control box. I found necklaces under the starboard berth in cokron behind the starboard berth and above the starboard berth after removal of the access plate bar area.
- Once released ducts, it must release the control box: Remove the plastic cover stuck in the axis of the lever, remove the plastic pin to access the nut (key 17) and remove the external control lever. It just comes, no need hard hub.
- To remove the casing, you must first remove the instrument panel in front of the bar. Then has access to the four screws corresponding to the four screw heads placed around the lever. Be careful not to lose the nuts, a key 8 tube is necessary. In my case, there was also washers between the control box and polyester. They are difficult to remember ...
- It is recommended to disassemble the engine instrument panel for easy cable management. It is not necessary to remove the bar without you get there.
- Now that the cables and the control box are free, you just get the box up to get him out. it is easier to two, one inside pushing cables, one outside that hits the housing.
- We now have access to the cable locking system on the control box!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hope this helps...

Cheers

[Lazy Pelican]

Thanks both.
 It sounds a painful process, but it's got to be done.

John

[blue-max]

I also have to do this job - clutch cable kaput but can't remove throttle clutch lever in the cockpit. I have removed the plastic cover and the hollow nut but despite struggling I can,t slide the lever off from the splined shaft. Do I need a special tool. Advice appreciated

[Lazy Pelican]

I've just replaced both cables- in the end I'm not sure it's made much difference, but at least I'm confident they aren't about to break.
It took the best part of a day. Getting the throttle control lever off was very easy- remove the black plastic cap and then use a socket (17mm from memory) to remove the nut. The lever should then slide off easily.

John.

[dawntreader]

........ Getting the throttle control lever off was very easy- remove the black plastic cap and then use a socket (17mm from memory) to remove the nut. The lever should then slide off easily.

John.

Sorry John but I have to disagree with you  I have removed the cover, undone the nut and tried to remove the handle with a puller but without success. I just couldn't get it to shift and suspect it has corroded to the spline. There is also not much room to spray with something like WD40 either. I expect it will come off eventually but it won't be a quick job 

[blue-max]

Glad I am not the only one with a stuck handle. I was able to solve the problem with the loan of a mini puller which with a bit of improvisation did the job. It occurred to me later that I had the perfect tool on board for this job - a jabsco impeller puller. In any event do not use heat as there is a plastic part next to the shaft on the inside which could easily be damaged.
Now that I have extracted the cables I find 1 of the plastic cable holders on the control unit has broken. I assume this is a VP part - no markings on the body of the controller but this is no longer the current model listed by VP so does anyone know if this part can be obtained

[Symphony]

It is a Lewmar control head, not Volvo. Parts are available but suspect the clip will be in a kit rather than individual.

[dawntreader]

Glad I am not the only one with a stuck handle. I was able to solve the problem with the loan of a mini puller ....

Any idea what was causing the handle to stick to the spline? I've tried using an improvised puller but without success so far - worried about how much pressue to apply.

[blue-max]

in my case I think it was just old grease and dirt binding - no corrosion was apparent

[dawntreader]

OK, thanks - will have another go 

[blue-max]

You need to replace the locking nut loosly so there is space for the handle to move.. you can then place the screw of the puller onto the nut