Rudder bearings replacement

[fdemei]

Happy new year to everybody.
I'm a Bavaria 38" Holiday owner. The boat was built on 2000.
The rudder start to have small backlash, then I'd like to replace the upper and lower bearing.

From Jefa  they ask to me the shaft dimension.:
-M13-210-AB-74, Bearing ball with rollers for 74mm shaft = ?161,-
-M13-125-50, Bearing ball with rollers for 50mm shaft = ?128,-

Actually I don't know what I have to order.
Anyone know which type of bearing is in use on this boat ?
Tankyou in advace

[dawntreader]

Contact the Bavaria factory direct online - they have an on-line form for enquiries. You will need your boat build number and date of production. The upper and lower bearings for my B37 2006 I have just received and fitted were supplied by Bavaria but made by Jefa. Cost 200 euros plus p/p.

www.bavaria-yachtbau.com

[aquapore]

Hi

For what its worth I had significant back lash in my 2003 Bav 41 when I bought it. The surveyor and other "experts" said this was rudder bearing where. I had the bearing replaced at significant cost only to find that the cables need to be tightened.

Suggest you check the cables before spending a lot of money with the bearings.

Good luck

Aquapore

[fdemei]

Hi guys ,
thank you for answer, the cable tightening is ok. With the boat ashore , if I keep the rudder blade by hand and I move it in orizontal I feel the backlash .That mean problems in the rudder bearings.

[Moodymike]

Have you tried tightening the large nut on top of the bearing, got rid of my rudder play by a quarter of a turn.

[fdemei]

Have you tried tightening the large nut on top of the bearing, got rid of my rudder play by a quarter of a turn.

good suggestion, I will  try  as I'll  get the boat out of the water

[paulemeier1]

it is not necessary to put the boat out of the water. I have tightened my rudder in the water. You need a special tool for it.
But the first time I haven't it and do it with two screw Driver in the holes and a third one to turn. It works, but with the right tool it is very easier.
I thought it is this one

http://www.amazon.de/AMF-Stirnlochschlüssel-14-100-Zapfen/dp/B0046YIX3W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420782754&sr=8-2&keywords=stirnlochschlüssel+verstellbar+8mm

but I am not sure about the 8mm. Maybe it was 6mm?

[Dave]

I replaced both upper and lower rudder bearings whilst in a run down boatyard in Borneo on our 1999 Bavaria 50 which we're circumnavigating. No real problems except we had to dig a hole in the ground to drop the rudder. But we also had a simple tool made consisting of a steel tube with two 'prongs' welded to one end that corresponded with the tightening holes in rudder retention nut. A through hole in the top section of the steel tube allows a bar to be inserted to turn and tighten the rudder stock retention nut whilst on the move. We find during long passages the top retention nut slowly loosens and a slight knocking occurs as the rudder turns. A quick tighten of around one full turn resolves it... takes about five minutes without slowing or changing course.

[dawntreader]

Good advice from Dave. There are two points though:

• On my B37 2006 there is a cross-headed screw on the top locking nut. The purpose of this screw is to deform the threads of the locknut so that it does not loosen so if you think adjustment is needed ensure this is released and re-tightened as appropriate
• I use a bicycle bearing tool to adjust the torque on the locknut (see attached). Not perfect but does the job 

[Vinnie45]

Last summer the nut on top let loose and the rudder dropped  but did not fall out all the way. I reconnected it and added a clamp to hold it in place . Would it be advisable and if so where would I get a new piece to hold the rudder in place .