water pump and exhaust

[tony from dorset]

 i have got a drip from the water pump, has anybody experienced this, it is not from the front can i buy a service kit or is it an exchange unit,    also on the exhaust which runs  under the rear bed ( volvo part ) i have a rust stain underneath,   the ends are stainless steel with rubber in the middle consisting of three parts wasnt expecting it to rust being stainless steel,   can parts be purchased seperatly or is it a new system.

Regards  Tony

[geoff]

I f the rust is not extensive I would ignore it .If it is accompanied by puddles then it is a problem. The water pump can easily be fitted with new seals and bearings as long as the shaft has not become too waisted.  Geoff

[tony from dorset]

thanks Geof    the rust stain must be a small drip leaving a brown stain 6 inches long  not puddles,  as for the pump do i have to take it to a .dealer to have the bearing pressed or do they come out easily

regards Tony

[geoff]

If you have access to reasonably large vice it's easy but difficult to explain . A rebuilt unit will cost a lot £300 ish but the bits will cost about £30. geoff

[tony from dorset]

i assume its the 4 bolts at the back on square plate to rear of  pump to remove it,   i think i will order the service kit and give it a go   thanks for that geoff.

regards Tony

[Sweet As]

The rust from the ends of the water lock/exhaust muffler will get worse over time (as they did in our Bav36). Stainless Steel is no match for warm exhaust and sea water. You can take the ends off and have the hole(s) patch welded, but they will corrode again quite quickly.

There are a number of after market robust plastic alternatives available. I sourced one made by Vetus. The WLOCK45R model fitted straight in with no modification to inlet and outlet hoses.

[Alec]

Tony, to put a kit through purchased from Volvo will cost you a fortune, go to a local bearing/seal place and you will get everything for 30 pounds as mentioned above, if the shaft is worn where the seal sits or any other damage go to a small machine shop and they will be able to make one for you, you will save between 200 and 270 pounds. prices from Volvo are ridicules for such basic of the shelf parts, as mentioned above a vice and some basic tools and you will have it all done in an hour

[tony from dorset]

thanks for that  anyone in southampton area you would recomend for bearings and seals,   also do the bearings have to be pushed out or are they held in with circlips.

Tony

[MarkTheBike]

Hi Tony

Just a further note on your exhaust. You wouldn't think S/S would rust but I understand it's caused by the crystalline changes from the welding, so that where you'll find the rust. It happened to mine and I just replaced with another S/S one. The plastic and GRP ones are perfectly fine unless, for whatever reason, there's a reduction of cooling water causing the exhaust to overheat and melt the muffler. I found the slight extra cost of the S/S one worth the peace of mind. Also, as with all other stainless products on the boat, a quick clean every 6 months or so with AutoSol will help keep it under control.

ATB

Mark

[Trapeze Artist]

Tony, you don't say what engine you've got. My own experience is with a Volvo D1-20 in a Bav 30, and I'm sure it would be equally applicable to slightly bigger Volvos in slightly bigger Bavs.

I had a fairly bad leak from the back of the raw water pump at about 250 hours. I thought that was a pretty short life, though I'm based in the Bristol Channel so the poor old thing spends much of it's life pumping liquid mud.

First off, the pump was a swine to get off. I removed the vertical board at the front of the engine bay to get slightly better access. Then I had to work back-to-front on four unseen bolt-heads or nuts (I forget which) to remove the pump from the engine. The seals were absolutely shot and there was a groove worn in the shaft. I forget about the bearing so maybe that was OK, or maybe I replaced that  too. I had a local mechanic do the disassembly and reassembly.

Sourcing the seals (and perhaps bearing) were dead easy. I used my local bearing specialist on the nearby industrial estate. It happened to be Hayleys (www.hayley-group.co.uk) but it could have been anyone. Seal sizes are standardised so you just need to read the number off the old seal and ask for that. Do make sure that they have stainless steel springs because I believe some seals are also available with carbon-steel springs, which are happy enough to live in oil but not so keen on salt water.

I thought about a number of solutions for the shaft:

• Buy a new shaft. This was definitely the non-preferred option as the cost was £287 if I remember correctly.
• Have a new shaft made. Although the shaft is simple enough, it would still be fairly expensive as a one-off.
• Put a packing washer behind the seals so they run on a different part of the shaft. Potentially this was the simplest and cheapest solution but Iwasn't totally convinced that it all stood up dimensionally. It seemed a bit of a bodge, so I put the idea to one side.
• Grind the shaft undersize to clean up the wear area. Having measured the groove and checked the data sheet for the seals, this would have put the shaft diameter at the absolute minimum that the seal would tolerate. It seemed to be pushing my luck a bit.
• Fit a press-on sleeve (Speedi-sleeve made by SKF). The smallest available Speedi-sleeve was the right size for the job. Made by SKF who should know what they're doing. It makes the shaft diameter bigger, but still within the spec for the seal.

I opted for number 5. It has worked well for the last year and a half, although I still expect the seals to fail again fairly early as they are running on a small diameter. The seals were a couple of quid each and the Speedi-sleeve was £25. Then there was about an hour of labour for the mechanic to do his bit. Altogether much cheaper than feeding the Volvo greed machine.

[tony from dorset]

my engine is the md2030     when you take out the four bolts is there a gasket to replace behind  when refiting the pump,  also if its the shaft and seals thats gone  does the bearings have to be changed or is this just a precaution .
Thanks Tony

[Salty]

Ref Mark the Bike comment on February 27 2014
A big problem with stainless steel is if it remains in contact with stagnant seawater for long periods of time. Within your exhaust muffler, if sea water remains at the end of a run as it most likely will, and your boat engine is not run, then the water remaining becomes stagnant and somehow it then attacks the stainless steel. On a different boat one of my stainless steel bolts for a bilge keel rotted through where sea water had managed to get under the paint to the head of the bolt. On the second lift out after purchase, I was confronted with a large blister from which some evil smelling sea water leaked out when the blister was pierced. The head of the bolt had all but rotted away, and was subsequently punched through to the inside of the boat where what was left was removed and replaced with a new bolt. The same can, and does happen with exhaust systems where injected seawater has lain in contact with stainless parts until they rot away.
Previously during my life at sea I worked onboard Liquefied Natural Gas tankers where many of the parts were constructed from stainless steel, yet we still had to replace some of the stainless fittings where they just rotted away.
So be warned that stainless steel is not always such a great material.

[Graysailing]

Hi

Have had both problems on my B38  you can get a service kit for the Pump, Re the exhaust remove it from the boat ( make a note of which way round it is ) each end is held by a large Jubilee clip you may need to slide in a small screw driver to break the seal to remove the ends, you will probably find their are small pin holes which you can get welded, mine was quite Bad found, a local stainless steel welder that cut back the whole ring by 30mm made a new one and re welded it for £85