Author Topic: Rudder bearing replacement  (Read 10546 times)

MIA

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Rudder bearing replacement
« on: November 11 2013, 13:23 »
Has anyone changed the bearings on the rudder, I'm going to drop out the rudder next month and hopefully the rudder will drop out easily, boat yard are going to hold it in the cradle all night at a higher height while I try and get the rudder out and bearings change, if I cant get the rudder out I've been told I'll have dig a hole below rudder to enable it to be dropped out and reinstalled. I'm changing the bearings to the new roller type.

Stevie

Odysseus

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #1 on: November 12 2013, 09:27 »
Put "  yacht grot     " into Utube there is a good video on changing rudder bearing on a Bav 37. If that does not work put in "  Bavaria rudder bearing   " there is also a good water pump bearing change video.

Utube has a lot of very good maintenance video's so it's always worth a punt looking them up.

Hope this helps.

Odysseus


Odysseus

MIA

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #2 on: November 12 2013, 13:17 »
Thanks I'll give them a try

Stevie

blue-max

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #3 on: December 21 2013, 14:32 »
I have also got to do  this job but I need some details on the start.  Does the metal cap on deck  covering the rudder shaft   unscrew? May need to use a filter gripper as mine seems very tight. After freeing the quadrant the next job is to  undo  a nut which I guess is exposed once the deck cap has been removed and this will release the rudder. I am hoping that its only  the bearings which are worn - the rudder is very loose but it could be that the sleeve has perished as its aluminium. Replacing the sleeve looks difficult - an one with experience of that?

doctordoom

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #4 on: December 21 2013, 17:44 »
Hi MIA, saw your post re rudder bearings, have just reassembled the rudder and reinstalled in my Bavaria 34 circa 2000, original problem was lower bearing seized onto rudder shaft so bearing was moving in hull, not shaft in bearing,I ordered a new lower bearing from Clipper Marine which came promptly as I anticipated having to cut the bearing off, had the boat craned out and keel set on 9" wood block which gave plently of clearance for dropping rudder out, can't comment on what you will need for a Bavaria 39, my main problem was that the central "grub" bolt with pointed end that locates in recess in shaft and the M10 allen headed bolts holding the clamp cap on the quadrant were seriously seized, with hammering and heating/cooling I eventually was able to undo the grub bolt and two allen headed bolts on the starboard side, the port side was so seized that I feared I would shear the heads off the bolts or strip out the hexagon recess, luckily I was able to get a tiny amount of play in the quadrant, jammed it from moving then hung on the rudder outside and wriggled it out, the bearing was seized on but with judicious tapping with hammer and wooden drift was able to work it up the shaft, wear in the bearing was minimal but calcified crud and corrosion on the shaft (aluminium) had caused the seizure, the quadrant needed much more heat and persuasion back in my garage at home than I could ever have acheived lying on my back reaching up into the lazarrette, the quadrant is aluminium and bolts stainless and were seized with hard white crud.
After cleaning all threads and greasing in the hope that all will disassemble more easily next time have put all back in situ this morning, on advice from Clipper Marine put non petroleum grease on bearing surfaces in hope of reducing corrosion in shaft and preventing premature seize up again, however bearing moves more in the hull than the shaft moves in the bearing! There in nothing in the Bavaris 34 to stop the lower bearing turning in the hull, suprisingly there was no obvious wear in the gelcoat where the bearing sits so may not have been seized for long. I am tempted to put a little dab of sikaflex between bearing and hull to stop it moving in the hull.
I hope that relating my recent experiences my be of help to you, best of luck with your repairs; John

jetsep

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #5 on: December 23 2013, 16:49 »
Has anyone changed the bearings on the rudder, I'm going to drop out the rudder next month and hopefully the rudder will drop out easily, boat yard are going to hold it in the cradle all night at a higher height while I try and get the rudder out and bearings change, if I cant get the rudder out I've been told I'll have dig a hole below rudder to enable it to be dropped out and reinstalled. I'm changing the bearings to the new roller type.

Stevie

Hi!
...my first post... :)
Did that ( rudder bearings not the post) the past year on my 2002 40.
Nope, the rudder will "tend to stay"... until it will eventually "tend to drop" so take adequate measures.
You won't regret doing the work. The new bearings are different: no more solid thing but luxurious roller bearings.
I had to specify the hull numbers to my local dealer to get the correct replacement and these are going to be the most expensive pieces of plastic you can think of.
Have fun!
"Think training is hard? Try losing"

blue-max

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #6 on: December 23 2013, 17:22 »
I would appreciate an answer to  my  previous questions. Also could someone explain how I can tighten down the main bearing. As my rudder bearing is loose this may be a way to sort the problem rather than changing the bearing.   

jetsep

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #7 on: December 24 2013, 10:18 »
I would appreciate an answer to  my  previous questions. Also could someone explain how I can tighten down the main bearing. As my rudder bearing is loose this may be a way to sort the problem rather than changing the bearing.

Hi,
I'm afraid the answer depends on the cause.
The upper screw could to be tighten. Tighten until the the rudder starts to become stiff and then loosen a bit (bit: approx 30°CCW turn). If the rudder has still some slack you should consider replacing the bearings.
"Think training is hard? Try losing"

MIA

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #8 on: January 06 2014, 13:57 »
Update on bearing replacement crane and cradle booked for the 1st Feb when the task will begin, so will feedback once completed, thanks for all the inputs much appreciated.

Stevie

ytd

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #9 on: January 07 2014, 00:41 »
I suspect we need to replace the bearings in our 2003 44.  The steering has become very stiff and there is a squeaky noise from the bottom bearing whenever it is turned.  Maybe some crud got into the bearing when the boat was last pressure washed before antifouling.

I assume the rudder just drops out once you loosen the quadrant and the hoseclamp on the bottom bearing seal?  We will have a boatyard do it but it would be handy to know what is correct since I don't think they have done one before.

MIA

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #10 on: February 02 2014, 08:07 »
Update on bearings, lifted the boat out yesterday ( in between gusts & rain), job wasn't as difficult as I thought it was going to be.

1. Boat still in cradle and lower to sit on the keel on a block then built up wood below the rudder with about an inch gap, this required because when you undo the locknut if it falls it can split the rudder if it drops and hits the concrete.

2. Loosened the locknut and left about 3 turns of thread, the from below got some large wedges and gently started to hemmed then in above the rudder against the hull until the rudder started to drop. Once it had broke free removed the locknut completely.

3. Got the crane operator to raise the cradle up slowly and use a 2 foot long brass bar 1 1/4 thick (supplied by friend) started to hit the bar against to square shaft on the top to rudder shaft while 2 people holding the rudder steady and keeping the wood below approx 2 to 3 inches between rudder bottom.

4. The rudder shaft drops out and is really quite heavy so be aware of this plenty of hands available.

5. Cradle lowered again to access the bearing housing, couldn't move the bearing a first seized quite tight, inside diameter is 63mm so go a scaffold tube about 3 foot long and inserted about 2 inches into the bearing and worked the bearing free, have to move from port to starboard ie along the slot of housing, spraying WD40 in to housing frequently to ease.

6. The hardest bit was once the bearing was turned vertically was to turn it 90 degrees to enable to drop out the slot, so brass bar inserted and gently hit the flat surface of bearing until it turned couldn't get it all the way due to width of bar then inserted a 6 in shift and hammered shifter to complete the turn.

7. Tricky bit was pulling the bearing out the slot so a screwdriver bent at 90 degrees (about an inch from end of tip) was inserted at one side and a normal screwdriver inserted the other side and the pulled down with the 2 of them at the same time and out she came.

8. Inspected inside the bearing housing the was some surface corrosion which had to be cleaning so cleaned out with a brass wire brush set (bought from screw fix prior to staring) inserted into a battery drill and cleaned to a smooth finish, there was some aluminium eating away only slight though, may look at bonding over the next week by fitting an anode.

9.  Sanded the outside of the bearing and finished out with very fine wet & dry to give a polished finish. Purchased some WD40 with PTFE dry grease and sprayed inside housing and on bearing, inserted bearing got the cradle raised lined up the rudder shaft, (don't forget to put the spacer on) and lower the cradle, once the shaft was in about a foot stopped the crane and man handle the rudder shaft up through the upper bearing and put the locknut on. The rudder could be turned by hand very easily now.

Just have to put the steering linkage back on and test, the rudder removal was started at 2:15 and completed by 3:45 that day maybe I was lucky to catch it on time.
When the shaft was out I measured the ID/OD of the bearing and the actual rudder shaft, these are required to order from supplier, which I will do in the future for the new roller type, at the end of the day I save about £400 by cleaning up the original bearing.

The top bearing was perfect no work required at all.

Another thing I done was have the shaft inspected for cracks my son does NDT testing so another freebie  :D

Symphony

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #11 on: February 02 2014, 22:16 »
No point in bonding it to an anode as the corrosion is not the result of galvanic action. The aluminium is not in contact with any other metal. The corrosion is just seawater on the metal. That may be different if you fit a metal roller bearing in the future. One of the reasons why the bearing is Acetal is because it does not create any galvanic circuit with the aluminium shaft and housing.

MIA

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Re: Rudder bearing replacement
« Reply #12 on: February 03 2014, 07:21 »
No point in bonding it to an anode as the corrosion is not the result of galvanic action. The aluminium is not in contact with any other metal. The corrosion is just seawater on the metal. That may be different if you fit a metal roller bearing in the future. One of the reasons why the bearing is Acetal is because it does not create any galvanic circuit with the aluminium shaft and housing.

Thanks for that, that'll save me some time and work