How to fix leaking hatch seals?

[Krumelur]

During some heavy rain I noticed water leaking through one of the salon hatches.
It's coming in between the glass and the rubber seal. When I opened the hatch, I noticed that the seal is no longer properly glued to the glass.
Would I try and glue it back in place or buy new seals?

What kind of glue would I use?
What seal do I need to buy?

This is on a Bavaria 40 Cruiser from 2009.

Thanks!

[Ailatan]

 I think that the rubber seal is not glued to the acrylic or the aluminium frame it works by pressure.

I have the same problem and I am going to use a little bit of SikaLastomer 710 which is a butyl based sealant

[sean c]

I have the same leak issue. I Googled it a bit and a product called Captain Tolley's kept coming up with good reports. I have purchased this product but not applied it yet. It will be a few weeks before I get to this job but would be interested to hear if any other forum members have used this.
https://captaintolley.com/product-info/
Sean

[Mirror45184]

I have used some petroleum jelly with some success. Put a generous bead on the seal and against the Perspex. The grease makes a flexible water repellant barrier.

[Krumelur]

Eventually I fixed it by buying 5m of Lewmar gaskets: https://www.svb24.com/en/lewmar-gasket-for-low-profile-hatches.html

This is enough for two windows. It takes quite some force an patience to get the corners right. After having the hatch closed shut for a couple of weeks, the gasket is now staying in shape in the corners.

[JEN-et-ROSS]

We used Captain Tolley's on a similar roof hatch, it took applying it every few hours until no more would seep in via its capillary nature, and it's still sealed after about 5 years........... Worth a go as it's a cheap and simple solution... Bill.

[marioxp]

I had an identical problem. The seal is not glued to the acrylic glass or to the aluminum frame. In my case, the gasket had broken at the joint, so I glued it, but it didn't help. So I decided to take the frame apart and change the gasket. When I took it apart I saw that the gasket had broken at the joint even more, and I couldn't see it because it was under the aluminum frame. There was a lot of dirt under the gasket, in the end I decided not to change the gasket even though I already bought a new one because it is difficult to adjust the new gasket especially on the corners. I washed everything well from sand, dust, dirt and salt. I re-glued the joint on the gasket with acrylic glue. I smeared under the seal with butyl compound, this is nasty job. And put everything back together. And now it holds everything well and there is no leakage at all. The work is easy, except for this with butyl compound, maybe silicone grease would also seal well. My advice is, before you buy an expensive gasket, take the window frame apart and see if it can be repaired without a new gasket.

[Jake]

I bought new gaskets from Hatchmasters.  They had the exact match for the hatches Bavaria used (Lewmar).  Taking the frame apart was pretty easy.  Eight screws and the aluminum frame splits apart.  The new gasket fit very snugly around the window. So tight I thought I might rip the glued seam apart.  In the end it worked wonderfully. 

Jake
2004 Bav 44

[gmatthews]

Vaseline works great on hatch seals. Give a good coating, including under the perspex where applicable and they will stay like new and not leak. Do this not less than twice a year.

[nightowle]

Vaseline works well.  However, I've found that plumber's silicon that is almost the same consistency works longer than the vaseline.

[Odysseus]

I use plumber silicone, it's a gem, put it on all rubber seals, thin film on winches over winter, impeller on water pump its 6 years old now, toilet pump, thin film over annhor winch,
It's a winner.
Odysseus