Rudder Bearing replacement

[Fairweather sailor]

Hello all. We have to drop our rudder to carry out some repairs shortly. As our boat is nearly 20 years old, we want to take the opportunity to replace both bearings and possibly the simmer seal/gater. We have a Bavaria 30 cruiser, built in 2005, but described as a 2006 model.
We contacted both SVB and Jefa, with the hull no etc., Jefa advise there are two possibilities with the  top rudder bearing, one which appears to be plastic only (M13-040), the second option a donut shape with roller bearings inside (M13-095-40). So, we should know once the existing bearings are removed. We have seen the utube video showing how to extract/insert the donut type bearing, but not sure how the first type comes out or goes in?

The lower bearing (M75-360-58) appears to be a "mushroom" shape, again with metal roller bearings inside.
Can anyone who has changed this type of bearing please advise or direct us to instructions how this bearing is removed and installed?
Many thanks.

[Yngmar]

I've not seen the mushroom type before, but I imagine it is simply clamped with the flat side against a washer and held counter by the top nut. It therefore should come out with the rudder post, or can be easily pulled out.

Simmerring = Lip seal in English

[PEA-JAY]

Do you have any issues with the bearings at all? My 39 is of the same age and initially the nylon bearing absorbed water and started seizing the rudder and I reamed it to size a few times. For the past 15 years it has remained stable and I can spin the wheel with just one finger! It's a forgotten problem. The amount of wear would be negligible. Are you planning this job for any other reason?

[Fairweather sailor]

Thanks Yngmar, it's the lower bearing. I tried to attach a photo, but unsuccessful. The Jefa part no is M75-360-58, it will come up on SVB if you put in that no, you can see the roller bearings inside the mushroom shaped bearing!!

Well Pea Jay, the discussion started with a plan to repair a small amount of damage at the bottom of the rudder. However we thought it a little cold for that task, so decided to remove the rudder for repairs in a warmer environment. Of course then we said, why not replace both bearings while the rudder is out, because (Murphy's law) the 20 year old bearing could fail in a month!!!
No other issues yet.

[Fairweather sailor]

Hopefully a pic attached now, if anyone has experience changing this version of bearing.
Thank you.

[PEA-JAY]

That looks like the later type top bearing with rollers rather than the plain one. The older lower one is also plain and swivels in an aluminium housing. 

[Fairweather sailor]

Thanks Pea Jay, Jefa say this bearing is the bottom bearing, that's why we're wondering how its removed/installed?
Thank you.

[sunshine]

Have a look in here for more info
https://jefa.com/ftp/old_boat_spare_parts/Bavaria/Old%20library/Bavaria_30/

Bottom bearing is straight swap. You can do a straight swap of the top bearing for a plain one. If you want to go to a roller-type for the top, I think you need the new housing. Its the cup bearing replacement file that has the info.

All available from SVB I think.

[Fairweather sailor]

Thanks very much Sunshine. We hope to drop the rudder in early February, hopefully all will become clear act this point.
Thanks for the Jefa file, that will be very useful.
Best regards.

[sunshine]

I'm in the process of doing it just now. Two other things - there's a black rubber tube attached with jubilee clips to the aluminium tube inside the lazarette. That might be brittle and crumbly and need replacing. Inside the top of the tube is a seal that runs on the rudder stock. It also might need replacing. ID will be that of the rudder stock. OD will be the ID of black rubber tube. I haven't removed it yet but looks like jefa have them.

For the steering arm, once removed the key in the rudder shaft needs to come out, its a bit fiddly and easy to drop. When putting the arm back on, you need to get it at just the right height on the shaft or it fouls the back wall of the cabin on starboard lock. There's a sticker from lewmar that tells you the required torque.

Let me know how you get on!

[Fairweather sailor]

Many thanks, very useful info, I've sent you a PM.

[Marcoholi]

Hi,
I think I have the same job to do. In the picture above there is clearly a similar lower bearing as in my 30cr. Except I don´t know if I have the roller pins inside the bearing or not.
I would be nice to get a report of the operation. For me it is a mystery how the (lower) bearing is put in the place and how it is attached? At the moment it feels like the bearing itself is freely rotating between the rudder and the hull.

[Fairweather sailor]

Hi Marcoholi
I will be happy to report how we get on once we start the process.
Best regards

[SYJetzt]

See the YT Clip at 2:00
https://youtu.be/xF9OXOCrE5c?si=Vp0IPIsA8NewMnDS

[Marcoholi]

This is a good video, but the structure on the bearing and its attachement into the hull is different versus B30cr.

[sunshine]

Original B30 cruiser bearings

[Marcoholi]

Yes, Sunshine, this seems to be like in my boat. How it is installed/attached into the hull?

[sunshine]

Its not attached to the hull, it slides down over the rudder stock.  You need to drop the rudder and slide it off the stock.  To drop the rudder, you need to take off the steering arm in the lazarette, undo the big nut on the floor of the cockpit under the hinged panel under the helmsmans seat. Its a two-man job given the weight of the rudder.

[Marcoholi]

Thanks Sunshine. So, the bearing itself is not attached to the hull by any means? That kind of explains why the bearing itself rotates freely at the moment. I don´t know if it should do so? Perhaps it needs be tightened somehow (from the big nut up on the cockpit floor?).
The problem Im having is that the bottom of the rudder moves bit too much sideways when shaked with hand. Also some sounds and strange feelings in the wheel - especially when the waves come from the back of the boat.

[Yngmar]

Try tightening up the top nut first. In this case the mushroom bearing being loose will let it exit the housing and rattle around on the bottom. This can't happen with the torus design.

[sunshine]

If you can get a 6mm pin spanner it helps with fine adjustment -and better than going at it with a hole punch or similar implement. Just don't round the locking screw which needs undone first.

[Alphadug]

We had to replace the bearing on our 2015 V42 2 years ago as it was seizing after a few hours motoring at cruising speed. The problem would go away when we slowed down. Apparently a common problem with German boats. They used a mix of Aluminum housing and plastic inner bearing, no other parts. Over time (not much really) the proximity of Copper bottom paint would cause the Aluminum housing to corrode and basically swell. We sourced the new (all plastic) bearing from the local distributor in Seattle. I had to split the top retaining nut to get it off. Ordered a new nut directly from Jefa. Had it overnight to Canada. Getting the rudder out was an adventure in itself. Used a solid block of 4"x4" and a big sledge hammer and spent an evening pounding on the end of the rudder post. Had to cut the bearing housing to get the bearing out which damaged to fibreglass rudder tube resulting in calling in the pros to repair. All good now and has finger tip control again. Sorry no pictures.

Doug

[Marcoholi]

Update: I tightened the upper bolt today (still on the hard) and that did the trick The lower bearing now sits firmly in its place and no extra movement sideways in the rudder. It was difficult to find the tool for tightening, but as it was not very tight I managed to do it with some pliers. Probably the lower bearing needs to be changed in near future anyway as it will wear and come loose again.
Thanks for help everyone!