Author Topic: 2015 Bavaria Cruiser 37 Sail Drive GatorChange  (Read 1703 times)

Impavidus

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2015 Bavaria Cruiser 37 Sail Drive GatorChange
« on: January 25 2024, 11:52 »
Hi All. It is time to replace the Sail Drive gator on Impavidus. As most of you will know this means the d1_30 engine has to come forward into the saloon to lift the Saildrive out inside the boat. I have done a couple of these before it's not a big deal.

However, I can't find the fixing locations for the panel below the companionway stairs. (Seen here in at the bottom of the picture).  On previous models there were 4-6 wood screws that secured the panel to make it removable. I can't find any fixings and it appears to be "Glued" in place.
Before I gab the multitool, has anyone done this before and knows the hidden fixings location?
Thanks.
Sail Safe. Ant 
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SYJetzt

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Re: 2015 Bavaria Cruiser 37 Sail Drive GatorChange
« Reply #1 on: January 25 2024, 12:35 »
I once watched VP technicians on a boat in our marina doing this to a fairly new Bavaria (unfortunately I can't remember the exact type!). As far as I could tell, this board was not removed because it is glued and stapled. Rather, they flanged off the saildrive and pushed the engine forward as far as possible. They then pulled the saildrive into the interior of the boat and over the engine. The propeller shaft was dismantled.
Good luck!

tiger79

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Re: 2015 Bavaria Cruiser 37 Sail Drive GatorChange
« Reply #2 on: January 25 2024, 13:17 »
I had the saildrive diaphragm on my 2014 Cruiser 37 replaced in 2021.  There's no need to remove that piece of wood; just shuffle the engine as far forward as possible - in your case you'll need to remove the heater ducting.

Impavidus

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Re: 2015 Bavaria Cruiser 37 Sail Drive GatorChange
« Reply #3 on: January 25 2024, 17:25 »
That's handy I thought... I'll just do some measuring.. But, my engine will only come forward 160mm before the raw water pump hits this little bulkhead.
If I take the pump off that gives me another 80mm The distance from the tip of the drive shaft to the back of the saildrive is 320mm The opening is less than that, too tight between the back of the engine when pulled forward and the bulkhead where the charge regulator and the extract fan are mounted. Turning the sd through 90 degrees half way out would do it but the risk of damage to the top of the engine or ancillaries is too great.
I want to replace the sump gasket and check the crank shaft seal too so it's got to come out. I guess I'll have to just cut it out from behind and be carefull. Someone from the BOA has told me that there are some screws behind the foil that hold the face against a rail? Apparently these come out and you can cut the glue out then to help dismantle the bulkhead. Ill do some photos when I start the work. Maybe a video.
Thanks for your info. Ant. 
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tiger79

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Re: 2015 Bavaria Cruiser 37 Sail Drive GatorChange
« Reply #4 on: January 25 2024, 22:33 »
All I can say is that the VP guys had no problem doing mine.  Slid the engine forward, lifted the leg up into the boat, over the engine, into the cabin.  It's a 2-man job.  Adequate space to do it.  While it's out it could be worth renewing the seacock on the saildrive.

john102345

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Re: 2015 Bavaria Cruiser 37 Sail Drive GatorChange
« Reply #5 on: January 28 2024, 23:06 »
Hi Ant
I have a 2011 Bavaria 36 cruiser same hull as your but single helm same layout as yours too.

My engineer & I did this job in 2022 as said on earlier posts we did not have to remove the front panel as the engine only needed to be moved forward some 150mm approx which gave good access to the saildrive ring bolts & allowed us to part the gearbox off the back.
We also used a couple of short straps to lift the engines weight as it was inched forward a combination of lifting & pushing forward saved scraping the gelcoat forward of the engine mounts.

A couple of pieces of 3x2 where used to edge the engine forward & then brace it.
Once the leg was unbolted we lifted the leg & gearbox out through the front of the stairs & into the cockpit.

To be honest I was watching most of the time just required a bit of muscle to liftout to save damaging any of the wood work.

Not sure if that helps
John ( discover) Patreon :)