MD2030 often shuts off

[JEN-et-ROSS]

The heating element is in the very 'tip' of the glowplug and since you only power them up for 7-9 seconds it's not likely that you'll detect an increase in temperature at the other end so quickly...
A better way to test them is to disconnect them from power AND each other, then use a multimeter set to measure the resistance across each one individually..
Then check the ohms measured against the value specified by the manufacturer...
If they're in range they're very unlikely to be faulty......

[SorinCT]

As described above, check the resistance in the glow plugs. If you have some spare battery cable you can try replacing it and try with a battery closer to the engine. I had a similar problem on a Perkins and was gradually getting weaker starts until i replaced the cable.
Cylinder head cracking is common but rarely a case of major failure of the engine. If you can, try a compression test to see what you have. Might be one valve/seat in bad condition or at least you can eliminate the need of a rebuild.

[Captain Jan]

I am not familiar with the detail of this engine, or if it has any safety shutdown systems. However, I once had an engine that would do this if I slowed down too quickly. It triggered a low lube oil pressure  automatic shutdown.The low oil viscosity at high temp, combined with low lube oil pump speed on rpm reduction  can give low pressure, enough to cause a shutdown.  There should be an alarm , but perhaps ??  If this is an issue, an oil change, (in case of diesel contamination), would help, or looking again at the grade used may be worthwhile. In older engine will have a lower lube oil backpressure than original spec., so revisiting oil SAE may be an idea? But perhaps it is something else entirely.

[marioxp]

The worst possible scenario happened!

After the condition did not improve after cleaning the exhaust elbow i contacted the mechanic.

At first, he thought it was the injectors, and yes, none of the three injectors were working properly. He ordered new nozzles and replaced them.

He turned the pistons and noticed antifreeze in the cylinders! We hoped that only the gasket was damaged, but the cylinder head has cracks in three places.

Cylinder liner has erosion damage, but this can be solved by replacing the cylinder liner.

The idea is that we go for a complete repair of the engine, pistons, bearings, valves, cylinder liners, cylinder head...

The only problem is that I can't find the cylinder head. Do you know where it could be purchased, does anyone produce a cylinder head for the Volvo Penta 2030D?

[symphony2]

Honest opinion. Don't waste any money on it. The engine has been out of production for 20 years so you won't get a new cylinder head. Only hope is a secondhand one from either another Volvo or its Perkins equivalent. Replace it with a new D1 30 complete with a new saildrive and recover some of the cost by selling the old saildrive which fetch good money.

[JEN-et-ROSS]

I agree...
We replaced our old VP 30hp with a Beta 30, (Kubota based engine) and recovered £900 by selling the old engine....
Similar situation to yourself, Block and cylinder head corrosion, but the bloke who bought the old engine only wanted the 'moving parts' as his engine had seized up due to oil starvation..... You'll not regret changing the old lump....Bill...

[Keweetoo]

We were in same position and carefully costed the options - full strip and rebore, cylinder head refurb etc. v new engine (either VP D1-30 or Beta 30).
We came to conclusion trying to keep the old lump going for a few more years would cost more than 50% cost of new, and there are still pleanty of things that can go wrong - water pumps, altenator etc. We had a Beta 30 fitted and now look forward to many years of not having to worry about the engine. Not only will new engine give peace of mind it will enhance the boat when you do come to sell on and enable you to achive top of range price for the year. Sold old for £500 to chap who wanted the working parts (heat exchanger etc). Also suggest if intending to keep boat in the long term you look at swapping engine and saildrive as a unit.

[SorinCT]

If you can afford a Beta repower, go for it. If not you can maybe find a 500+ USD replacement head with minor cracks at best. Then you need a major overhaul which will be expensive in most places. For example i can source a 500 USD head (minor cracks already) + shipping which can maybe last 2-3 years more. More reliable parts (with warranty) go for 2000 USD + shipping. A new engine with all the bells and whistles will reach around 9000.

[symphony2]

Just a bit of a warning about repowering with a Beta. While the engine is excellent (I have one) mating it to a 120 drive that is 20+ years and 5000 hours old is not a good idea. If the drive fails replacements are not available new neither are they rebuildable. A new 130 drive is approx £5k and a used 120 sells typically for £12-1500. The drive that Beta use in their package is not without problems and not as robust as the Volvo 130. There is very little difference in price (at least in the UK) between a Beta and a Volvo and to my mind it makes sense to replace with a complete D1 30 and new 130 drive package. Virtually straight swap and you can use the same propeller.

[JEN-et-ROSS]

Just a bit of a warning about repowering with a Beta. While the engine is excellent (I have one) mating it to a 120 drive that is 20+ years and 5000 hours old is not a good idea. If the drive fails replacements are not available new neither are they rebuildable. A new 130 drive is approx £5k and a used 120 sells typically for £12-1500. The drive that Beta use in their package is not without problems and not as robust as the Volvo 130. There is very little difference in price (at least in the UK) between a Beta and a Volvo and to my mind it makes sense to replace with a complete D1 30 and new 130 drive package. Virtually straight swap and you can use the same propeller.

Just to clear something up....
When we replaced the old VP 30hp, we did mate it onto the existing 120 type saildrive, partly because when we commissioned a pre-purchase survey, the surveyor noted that the 120 was much younger than the engine....
As the old engine was low hour, and had simply succumbed to the corrosion that the raw water cooling system had inflicted.. We decided to keep the saildrive..
To avoid the type of future issues mentioned by Symphony2 we shipped the saildrive to BETA for inspection and for them to mate the new engine to the saildrive in the factory..
This they did to ensure a proper fit, then test run the complete unit, separated them and shipped the new B30 and 120 back to us for installation..
They even sprayed the gearbox the same red colour as the engine....
This was done at minimal expense.......Great service from BETA MARINE..

[marioxp]

Thank you all for your advice,

Mainly for two reasons, the beta is a completely unknown engine in my area, and the second reason is my budget.

I found the cylinder head at a Perkins dealer. The head is not new, but it is in very good condition. The price is acceptable to me, around 700 euros.

It's a Perkins 103-10 cylinder head the dealer says fits the MD2030D. Should I worry about compatibility?

Mario

[nightowle]

I believe that should work.  Perhaps you could ask another dealer just for advice even though they don't have a cylinder head.  Just for the peace of mind.