MD2030 often shuts off

[marioxp]

Please help me.

Lately, my VP MD2030 often shuts off when I put the throttle from forward to neutral. I don't do anything different than before.

What can I do?

Mario

[JEN-et-ROSS]

Tick-over too low...??
 If it runs well at high power and underload it can't be fuel starvation...

[Yngmar]

Does it happen with and without the gearbox engaged? Push down the center button on the throttle lever to disengage the gearbox and then move the lever forward and back to throttle up and back to neutral a few times to see.

[marioxp]

Does it happen with and without the gearbox engaged? Push down the center button on the throttle lever to disengage the gearbox and then move the lever forward and back to throttle up and back to neutral a few times to see.

I have not noticed this happening when the gearbox is not engaged.

I noticed that there is also black smoke from the exhaust, but I didn't notice any loss of power.

[Yngmar]

Oil level is okay I assume, or you would've mentioned it.

Air filter is clean? Black smoke is too much fuel (or not enough air), or bad injectors, but then you'd have a general loss of power.

Does the engine sound okay in idle or does it have a rough/irregular idle?

It's odd that it dies when taking it out of gear, if it was a low idle it would die when engaging gear.

[JEN-et-ROSS]

I'm not familiar with the MD2030 but could the throttle lever/cable on the injector pump occasionally interfere with, or nudge the the fuel shut-off lever as the throttle lever reaches its idle position..?
They're usually close to each other and if one became damaged or bent..? (a long shot I know, But...??)

[marioxp]

Oil level is OK.

Air filter seems OK to me, but I need to check the in more detail. (Are any of you using that mushroom air filter? what is your opinion, the original VP sponge filter is unreasonably expensive).

The injectors have not been serviced for years, maybe is a problem with injectors! But the engine runs smoothly. I haven't noticed any problems with handling the load. But when you rapidly reduce throttle, it seems that the revolutions drop too low.

[marioxp]

BTW, I started to clean the exhaust elbow, but I'm stuck with removing the hose.

Some advice on how to remove this thick and hard hose.

[Yngmar]

I got ours off with a set of hose picks.

[SYJetzt]

Do you have the correct idle speed of your engine? It there any higher load from alternator ?

[marioxp]

I got ours off with a set of hose picks.

Thanks, I will try to remove the pipe from the muffler and try to remove it from the elbow in the cockpit, where I have a lot more room to work.

[marioxp]

Do you have the correct idle speed of your engine? It there any higher load from alternator ?

I think the idle speed is too low, although the engine runs smoothly.

[SYJetzt]

I would try to get the right idle speed and check, if the problem persists!

[symphony2]

Idle speed 850-900rpm

[marioxp]

Air filter is clean?

It's odd that it dies when taking it out of gear, if it was a low idle it would die when engaging gear.

correction: it goes off even when the transmission is not engaged.

Air filter is old, it even has a hole on the underside.

[marioxp]

I think that idle revs are two low.

How can I increase them.

[SYJetzt]

Take a look in the workshop manual page 57
https://bavariayacht.org/downloads/engine/Volvo_Penta_MD2010-20-30-40.pdf

[Yngmar]

That looks a bit low on the tacho indeed. There's a simple screw on the throttle lever that sets the lower limit. Check if it has moved (paint gone) before adjusting. They normally never need adjusting and you might just have another problem causing the low idle.

[marioxp]

My gap 6 is definitely not 3mm,  but it is not clear to me whether I should adjust it with screw 7 or with screw 2.

[Yngmar]

Idle speed is screw 2 (it's a lower end stop for the fuel pump). The one one seems to give a bit of space for the throttle lever to move when engaging the gear before throttling up.

[marioxp]

Today I called the Volvo service, that I noticed black smoke, that engine has between 3500 and 4000 working hours... I asked if they could do a gasket change on the engine or a general service if necessary.


My impression is that they are not interested in doing service. Because they immediately started saying that they were full of work, when I said that I could wait, then they suggested that I remove the engine and bring it to them. And in the end, the thing that really worried me was their conclusion that according to the number of working hours, the cylinder head is probably cracked and that it is most worthwhile for me to buy a new engine.

What do you think about this? Is the situation really that bad?

[symphony2]

Unlikely. I had a 2030 in a 2001 37 that did well over 3000 hours mostly on charter and was running as well at the end as when new. The secret is the type of use. If the engine is run for longer periods at working revs (2200-2600) and oil/filters replaced regularly you an expect a life of 8000+ hours. However sailboat auxiliaries are not often used like that. Short run periods, often at lower revs followed by long periods of inactivity are not good. The most common issue is the exhaust elbow which cokes up and suggest that is the problem with your engine.

The dealer it a cracked head is very expensive to replace - over £2000 just for the bare cylinder head and not worth it on an old engine. However, cracking is not common, although failure of one of the pre combustion chambers is not unknown but you would know about that as the engine would run roughly.

Suggest you go ahead with the exhaust elbow replacement using a new stainless one. If necessary remove the hose from the muffler if you can't get it off the elbow and replace with new. Suspect this will cure your problem with shutting down, although putting the tickover up is also good.

[marioxp]

I finally removed the exhaust elbow and clean it three days ago. Thank you all for the useful advice!

The elbow is in good condition,  I am not completely satisfied with the cleaning because there are still some deposits left, but it is much better than before. I cleaned it with hydrochloric acid. I was careful not to leave the acid on too long so as not to damage the metal.

But there is no progress regarding engine shutdown. I drove the engine up to 3000 revolutions, it works nice and smooth.

I noticed a leak trace where the pipe meets the muffler, some rust and salt, so I put some glue for exhaust. 

I don't think I mentioned, when motor is cold it's very hard to start, when it's warm there's no problem. I changed the glow plugs, I put bosch 0 250 202 089 and still the engine is hard to start. I checked the glow plugs, they get power but they don't heat up. (I felt them with my fingers and they are cold). 0 250 202 089 glow plugs should be compatible with the MD 2030!

[Yngmar]

Did you measure voltage at the glow plugs? If they get power, they should get warm, else they're busted. They're pretty simple things. The part number you listed is for 12V, so should work.

[marioxp]

Yes, I measured the voltage, at the moment I turn on the glow switch, they receive electricity.

I can't believe that I destroyed it in the first time I started the engine. When I touch them they are cold. I ordered magneti marelli UC59a they work for sure.