Saildrive seal replacement access

[MagicalArmchair]

The boat is out, the frame is built and in place and the top items are complete. I'm favouring lifting the engine from a halyard, rather than propping it up as I fear for one it'll drop, and for two, it'll be tricky to move forward by the few feet I am going to require.

Question: What should I lift the engine on? Put a chain between the two lifting points and lift on that? Or lift on the REAR lifting point, on the wet exhaust to support the back of the engine and take as much of the weight as I can. The engine weighs in at 250kg (dry).

• Build the frame.
• Lift out.
• Remove the propeller and rope cutter, lower seal housing and shaft.
• Drain saildrive oil.
• Remove the upper steps and rig a halyard to the lifting ring on the halyard.
• Unbolt the engine from the saildrive (as per the VP instructions that come with the seal), supporting the back of the engine with a metal bar or wood, also place some wedges down either side of the engine for extra security.
• Take off the fuel lines, expansion tank hose, raw water hose, wet exhaust hose, stop and throttle cables and unplug the wiring loom.
• Use the halyard to take up some of the weight of the engine, slide the engine forwards by the most I can, onto the frame, use a ratchet strap to the compression post to winch the engine slowly forwards.
• Lift the saildrive into the boat, and pull it though the hatch on the stb side of the engine.
• Take it home, work on it, replace the seals on the drive itself, repaint with aluminium etch printer and Velox and lovingly restore.
• Refit to boat, as per the VP instructions, following torque recommendations carefully.
• Slide engine back.
• Go sailing (and pray I don't sink!)

[MagicalArmchair]

A quick update on this one. The saildrive is off and I've changed the diaphragm - "just" the refitting to go. The fact the engine is at least 250kg (likely more, as its 250kg dry weight) really showed, as I first tried moving the engine with levers and wedges however, it was clear until I had the engine actually hanging by chains I was never going to make any progress! To give enough room to get the drive out, the strainer and all raw water pipes were removed, all fuel hoses (replacing these anyway) and the CAV primary filter (that is in the bin too) were removed and the air filter was also taken off. To give enough "slack" to move the engine forward all engine electrics were disconnected also from the port side. Moving only a foot forwards gave enough space to slide







Given how the engine is suspended, it helped "pull" the engine forward from the gearbox, however I can see re-engageing the engine with the saildrive is going to to a PITA, as I'm going to need to SLIDE the engine backward.

If anyone has any great idea how to do that single handed, I'm all ears

[geoff]

On my md22 I used pieces of 10mm diameter steel rod as rollers, Having lifted the engine a bit I removed the engine mounts and placed wooden beams  100mm x 50mmx 50cm under the mounting plates and over the engine beds. In between the two I placed a few bits of the roller. In my case it rolled forward and back without difficulty. Your wooden frame should act in the same way . Geoff

[Yngmar]

I just slid the engine back far enough for the already longish saildrive bolts to engage. Feet braced on the salon table leg, I don't remember this being very difficult.

Alignment took a bit of fiddling with the wedges supporting the rear end of the engine. Once the bolts engaged, tightening them in turns pulled the engine back into position with just a little shove required at the end to align the front engine mount bolts.

If you're struggling, I guess you could try some longer temporary bolts to pull them together, then replace them one by one as they close in, but with your fancy frame it should slide well enough. Try some grease on the wood if not! 

[Ronald]

Justitie a suggestion.  As I can’t see the condition of your saildrive leg.

But the Volvo dealer where I live standard removes all paint and put a Alu primer followed by multiple layers of epoxy. When applied carefully it give a perfect barrier to slap your antifoul paint  on..


Regs Ronald.

[MagicalArmchair]

The saildrive leg is back on, however getting the engine engaged was a PITA. After three hours of wiggling and jiggling, levering and pushing,  no luck. It’s lined up and feels engaged, however I can’t get the engine moved back the last three cms.

I bought some extra long bolts, however I’m a bit worried about just cranking hard on those to pull the whole lot together. If the splines are defiantly engaged, that would be fine, however I am unsure they are. I could split it all again and move it forward? I’ve left the gearbox in neutral, although the manual does state put it in reverse and turn the flywheel as you move it back - I’m not sure how you are supposed to do that whilst moving the engine.

A frustrating day of failure I’m afraid. I’m not sure how to move the engine that last bit.

[Yngmar]

Don't turn the flywheel, silly, go underneath the boat, stick the prop on and turn that. Much easier, same effect (with the gearbox in gear of course)!