Recaulking cockpit

[marioxp]

I'm preparing for recaulcking teak in cockpit, because the existing material has become soft and sticky.

I thought to do everything with Sikaflex 290DC PRO.

I noticed that one plank unstick from the base, I have to peel it off completely, and glue it. Can I use Sikaflex 290DC for this? or I have to buy whole pack of Sikaflex 298 just for one plank?

Do you have any tips how is easiest or best way to remove the existing caulck. How thoroughly do I have to clean the space between the planks? Do I have to pay attention to something special?

Do you have any tips for application of Sikaflex 290DC, except that I have to use Sika primer 290?

Thanks in advance.

[SYJetzt]

For my teak caulking i went with TDS SIS 440, which works without priming.
I removed the existing caulking with my fein vibrating multitool using a cutter blade like this https://fein.com/de_de/zubehoer/schneidmesser-63903202210/ (You dont need a fein multitool, a simpler and cheaper tool does the job as well).
Then i used a carbide saw blade like this https://fein.com/en_uk/accessories/carbide-saw-blade-63502170210/ to sand the flanks of the planks .
To avoid sanding the whole deck after caulking (and reduce the thickness even more) i used masking tape on the wooden surface, applied the caulking with a gun and squeezed it in with a spatula even with the surface.
Then i immediatly removed the masking tape (when caulking was in soft state without a skin!) and let it cure. 

Repairing the loose plank seems to be a difficult job, because the planks are glued to a plywood backing. i don't have a clue how to do this ...      

[Yngmar]

Would also recommend TDS-SIS 440. The re-caulking I did with it lasted until the end (of the deck) and it's less fuss and same cost as Sika with primer.

I replaced one of the short planks in the cockpit that had a crack with a reclaimed one from the deck. Used a wood chisel to remove the old plank and clean up the space (this is destructive, but the plank was already broken), then laid the new, thinner plank on a bed of adhesive caulking and weighed it down with a bin bag full of water (adapts to the shape). When cured (3 days to ensure a deep cure), pour away the water, then sand the slightly proud new plank down to match the surroundings. After a summer it has gone grey to match the rest and you can't really see it, other than perhaps it looks slightly newer and smoother than the rest

If you want to keep the plank intact, you can also try to mask off the surroundings and squeeze as much caulking underneath the lifting plank, then weigh it down and clean up, but the result will probably be not as good.

[marioxp]

I removed the existing caulking with my fein vibrating multitool using a cutter blade like this https://fein.com/de_de/zubehoer/schneidmesser-63903202210/ (You dont need a fein multitool, a simpler and cheaper tool does the job as well).

I don't have a fein multitool, I have a Parkside from Lidl that has a different grip and I can't put a fein blade on it. I think bosch might suit me. Although I thought of doing this part of the task with a screwdriver and a scalpel.

Then i used a carbide saw blade like this https://fein.com/en_uk/accessories/carbide-saw-blade-63502170210/ to sand the flanks of the planks .

OK, I have this tool

To avoid sanding the whole deck after caulking (and reduce the thickness even more) i used masking tape on the wooden surface, applied the caulking with a gun and squeezed it in with a spatula even with the surface.
Then i immediatly removed the masking tape (when caulking was in soft state without a skin!) and let it cure. 

Thanks for the advice, that's what I'll do.

[marioxp]

Would also recommend TDS-SIS 440. The re-caulking I did with it lasted until the end (of the deck) and it's less fuss and same cost as Sika with primer.

I don't know about you, but in Croatia (or Slovenia) TDS-SIS 440 is quite rare and expensive. 592 ml about 36 eur. https://yachtcentershop.com/proizvod/tds-caulk-sis-440/?gclid=CjwKCAjwjtOTBhAvEiwASG4bCFO435UqSnZVq9S9iLKammIjX4sgqXqYcfQGc7PR31EtB6F23lP_0hoCZaUQAvD_BwE

I found Sikaflex 298DC for a good price, about 18 eur and primer about 22 eur https://www.trgovina-kalcer.si/tesnilna-masa-sikaflex-298-fc-600-ml                https://www.trgovina-kalcer.si/prednamaz-sika-primer-290-dc-250-ml

Used a wood chisel to remove the old plank and clean up the space (this is destructive, but the plank was already broken)

I hope I won't have any major problems with removing this plank, because one part has come off and is easy to move. But until I start working, I don't know what problems we will encounter.

I don't know how different Sikaflex 290 dc and Sikaflex 298 are, i.e. can I use Sikaflex 290dc to glue this plank.

[Yngmar]

Uhm, so that makes TDS-SIS (36 EUR for ~600ml) cheaper than Sika + Primer (40 EUR for ~600ml), right?

If you can get the loose plank off intact it should be fine and easy to glue back in as it'll be a perfect fit already! Make sure you generously mask off the sides as the squeeze out can be considerable.

[marioxp]

Uhm, so that makes TDS-SIS (36 EUR for ~600ml) cheaper than Sika + Primer (40 EUR for ~600ml), right?

YES, I need 4-5 pack of caulking compound and 1 primer.

Make sure you generously mask off the sides as the squeeze out can be considerable.

Did you mean plank sides? So that the caulking compound can be bind for the sides of the boards, both the one plank I remove and the two panks that remain in place?

[tiger79]

YES, I need 4-5 pack of caulking compound and 1 primer.

The primer goes a long way, so you'll probably only need one bottle, on which basis Sikaflex will be cheaper for you.  I've used 290DC and primer, and it works OK.

Be sure to have a cardboard box handy to put the masking tape in as you take each piece off.  Put a brick or stone in the bottom of the box to stop it blowing away (don't ask how I discovered this!).

[marioxp]

[/quote]
Be sure to have a cardboard box handy to put the masking tape in as you take each piece off.  Put a brick or stone in the bottom of the box to stop it blowing away (don't ask how I discovered this!).
[/quote]     I calculated that there would be about 70m of masking tape.


Has anyone tried removing the old caulk without oscillating tool, with some basic tool? It seems to me that this part removal of the old caulk will be the hardest part of the job.
Application of caulk should not be much of a problem, maybe my hand will hurt from squeezing the gun, but this should not be a science.

Has anyone used this part?
https://yachtcentershop.com/proizvod/tds-aplikator-za-fuge/

[SYJetzt]

Has anyone tried removing the old caulk without oscillating tool, with some basic tool? It seems to me that this part removal of the old caulk will be the hardest part of the job.

Depends how many meters of caulk you need to remove. I removed the whole cockpit floor area and tried a sharpened screwdriver first, but after fiddling on the first two meters i bought the caulking knife, which left my aching back and knees intact....
It took approx. 2 hours of cutting and sanding for the whole area, which wasn't really good accessible around the cockpit table. With the cutting knife you are able to cut along the wooden flanks, so there will be not much rubber remaining for sanding. The most time consuming task was perfectly masking all the wooden areas.   

[SYJetzt]

Be sure to have a cardboard box handy to put the masking tape in as you take each piece off.  Put a brick or stone in the bottom of the box to stop it blowing away (don't ask how I discovered this!).

I agree with tiger79. The caulk creates a real mess if the tape is blown around...

[tiger79]

Has anyone tried removing the old caulk without oscillating tool, with some basic tool? It seems to me that this part removal of the old caulk will be the hardest part of the job.
Application of caulk should not be much of a problem, maybe my hand will hurt from squeezing the gun, but this should not be a science.

Has anyone used this part?
https://yachtcentershop.com/proizvod/tds-aplikator-za-fuge/

When I renovated the teak deck on my old Hallberg-Rassy, a lot of the caulking was loose and just pulled out.  I removed stubborn bits with a knife and a small screwdriver.

The applicator tool you linked to looks useful.  Note the direction in which it should be used.

[tiger79]

 
I agree with tiger79. The caulk creates a real mess if the tape is blown around...

It also helps to wear disposable covers on your shoes.  Despite taking care, you WILL tread on wet caulking at some point.  Disposable shoe covers can just be removed and thrown away, minimising the risk of treading caulk marks everywhere.

[SYJetzt]

Despite taking care, you WILL tread on wet caulking at some point.

Agree once again...

I didn't tread on the wet caulk, but my first mate did an diligent inspection of my previous work.....