B40 furling line

[pmartin]

I've been watching some of Patrick Laine's videos and in one his Furlex jammed as he was trying to roll the genoa in.
On his boat (a 2008 B40) the furling line comes to the cockpit over the cabin roof, presumably through a clutch/jammer.
On my boat (a 2010 B40) the furling line comes down the side through gaps at the base of the stanchions almost to the back of the boat then into the cockpit not through a jammer but a locking type thing with half a cleat (don't know the name) that holds the line by pulling a lever.
It got me thinking whether PL's routing is better - what do other people do?

[IslandAlchemy]

Same as you have.  Bringing it over the coachroof creates a trip hazard on the foredeck, exactly where you don't want one.

[symphony2]

You can improve it by running the line through stanchion blocks and a jamming fiddle block attached probably to the pushpit leg. I used Harken gear for mine, but other types are available. Use similar for the double furling lines for my cruising chute, but using Selden gear.

As above, over the deck is a no-no because of the line cutting across the foredeck for no advantage for handling.

[pmartin]

Thanks both - my thoughts the same re the trip hazard on foredeck but handy to put round the winch if needed.

[blue-max]

My furling control relied on a rope clutch mounted on the deck capping. Not great if you want to  stay in the cockpit. I have repositioned the clutch  to  the rear of the cockpit combing. I had to  make a wooden base to  position the clutch in line with the stanchion block and the winch ( needed to  use intermediate pulley)  which  was complicated and took some time. There is a trip hazard where the line crosses the side deck  but that's unavoidable. Control now is possible from the cockpit.

[sy_Anniina]

If you happen to have separate spinnaker winches, there should always be a winch available also for furling line even if it comes along the stanchions.

IIRC - the Selden furling manual advices to avoid using winch - you may easily pull with more force than the system is designed for.

BR,

Tommi
s/y Anniina

[pmartin]

Thanks Tommi - I don't have spinaker winches and I take your very good point about using the main winch. Mine is a Furlex but the advice applies equally.

Blue - my furling clutch is easily reached from the cockpit even though it's on the other side.

My problem is being able to easily furl the genoa in sometimes - I can't get enough pull on it so the temptation to put it on the winch is tempting.

[kavok]

Bavaria standard furler rope circuit is very poor.
I added stanchion blocks, stopper, and a final block so I can pull the rope in the direction I want. Easy to use handly.
 Copy my system, about 150 euros of items. Ceck also, by pulling rope by hands,  near to the furler, that it roll easy.

[Clivert]

First off, I never use winches furling my genoa, I turn to reduce the load and then furl by hand.
When I get a jammed furled I let the sheet go and then go forward and hold the foil in both hands and turn it so the furling line is slack enough to release the riding turn and the off we go again

[pmartin]

Thanks kavok and Clivert. Sorry not to reply sooner but I've been away for a week.
I have seen boats with blocks at the stanchion bases so it looks like that is a solution but turning to
reduce the load is a good idea.

[tiger79]

I have seen boats with blocks at the stanchion bases so it looks like that is a solution

I used Harken stanchion mounted blocks on my last boat.  Each block has two sheaves, and the line is led outboard of the stanchion.  The reduction in friction was really noticeable.

[pmartin]

Thanks tiger79 - does the block clamp round the stanchion base? If so how does the furling line pass through the block?

[tiger79]

Thanks tiger79 - does the block clamp round the stanchion base? If so how does the furling line pass through the block?

Yes, the block clamps around the stanchion, using the 4 Allen-headed bolts you can see in the photo.  No need to remove or disturb the stanchion.  The furling line is simply threaded through the block on the outside of the boat (see pic).

[pmartin]

Thanks tiger79 - that picture makes it a lot clearer. I think I'll get myself some of those.

[symphony2]

You might also consider using one of these as well - also from Harken
 

[Yngmar]

Since we're sharing stanchion blocks, the Petersen ones are worth mentioning. They're what came as standard on our 40 Ocean:

https://www.svb24.com/en/petersen-stanchion-lead-blocks.html

Still good after 20 years. One had jammed after an impact but was repairable.

[pmartin]

Thanks symphony2 and Yngmar.
symphony2 - do you have one on every stanchion and do the cleats grip the line when you don't want them to?
Yngmar - same job as the Harken but nearly half the price!

[kavok]

You might also consider using one of these as well - also from Harken

For 40 ft boat a clutch is better for my opinion

[symphony2]

Nowhere on that boat to fit a clutch, but agree on a clutch might be better on  a 40 if thewre is a suitable place foit one.

My priority on my 33 was to be able to reach it easily from the helm, rather than the standard fitting that was in a silly place further forward on the sidedeck.

[symphony2]

Thanks symphony2 and Yngmar.
symphony2 - do you have one on every stanchion and do the cleats grip the line when you don't want them to?
Yngmar - same job as the Harken but nearly half the price!

No. The set is is a block on the pulpit leg, then the double blocks on each stanchion leading to the jammer on the pushpit leg close to the helm. I chose the Harken gear because the blocks can be mounted on the outside of the stanchions and run smoother than other types. The aim was to reduce friction and make life easy for single handing.

[pmartin]

Thanks all