Author Topic: Volvo D2-40B Coolant Loss/Heat Exchanger issue  (Read 4875 times)

KiwiGriff

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Volvo D2-40B Coolant Loss/Heat Exchanger issue
« on: December 21 2017, 00:26 »
I thought I'd share my recent experience around a sudden (almost) catastrophic loss of coolant and the reason for it.  By way of background:  We've had our 2008 Bav 38 (Enceladus) for just over a year.  It's fitted with a D2-40B and 130 Saildrive.  The engine now has 1478 hours on it and looks brand new and generally well maintained.  Fuel and oil filters were dated and had the engine hours clocked up written on them when they were changed so it looked like regular servicing had been done anyway. The boat was in charter for a few years but came with no documented service history.  I had it non-invasively checked by the local Volvo agent before we bought it because it had a weeping salt water pump and a very small amount of dried up antifreeze in the bilge below the muffler.  Additionally, the saildrive had been overfilled with oil.  I'd looked at another 38 before this one (fitted with a D2-55) and, from the invoices kept by that owner, noticed a very expensive raw water pump replacement.  That, along with my Googling the effects of overfilling the saildrive unit caused some concern!  I wanted to know the implications of what I'd noticed and it gave me some negotiating leverage with the vendor via the broker.  The only comment the local Volvo agent’s rep gave me in his report (apart from regurgitating what I'd actually told HIM… ::)) was that 'it might need a pressure test at some time'.

Fast forward a year and I have it on the hard, anti-fouling before the Summer holiday here in NZ.  Put the boat back in the water and decided to go for lunch at a bay an hour away.  Going down the harbour I heard the engine change pitch ever so slightly.  Water flow from the exhaust was fine as usual.  I knocked it into neutral and idle and could then hear the ‘no water’ alarm (no temperature gauge).  Off engine immediately and checked coolant.  No coolant in the expansion chamber but a very hot smell!  I sailed back to the marina (carried more by the tide than wind!) which allowed the engine to cool down, topped up the coolant, and started the engine only long enough to reverse down the fairway and back into the berth.  Result - no coolant in the chamber and alarm just starting to go off again.  Coolant was dripping from the back of the freshwater pump pulley into the bilge (but certainly not the entire contents of the expansion chamber).  I figured it was ‘burping’ and self-bleeding and would just take some time to get itself sorted out but I didn’t want the freshwater pump to be dripping, so I Googled some more and got a new (non OEM) freshwater pump ordered from the UK (very reasonably priced I thought).  Fitted that, took the core out of the H/E (lovely and clean but a PITA to remove as there’s not enough room in front as it hits the bracket holding the expansion chamber), fitted new o-rings to the end caps etc (not knowing when they were last done).  I had removed the exhaust elbow (and air filter) in order to remove the aft end cap (the very short hose directing the raw water into the elbow is next to impossible to remove so I undid the hose clip and slid the entire elbow off without disturbing the gasket - the exhaust elbow looked quite manky.  At the very end of the heat exchanger there were some greenish crystals (see photo 1).  I thought salt water crystals that would blow out next time the engine ran, but I got a rag and wiped it out and then reassembled everything.  No experience with Volvo motors before this and my old boat’s 1967 six cylinder marinised Ford was a completely different arrangement.

Topped the coolant up again and sat the pressure cap on top (rather than screwing it down) - coolant level stayed the same - all good.  Screwed the cap down and it started disappearing again! Checked the exhaust - greenish tinge in the water and somewhat more frothy mix than usual.  Took the cap off - raw water from exhaust back to being water only.  Oh dear - serious issue going on (?head gasket, $$$).  So my thought process was that the coolant, when under pressure, is making it into the exhaust and being pushed through the waterlock muffler and straight into the briny.  Given that it’s a closed system there must be a crack or hole in the H/E.  To confirm this, my mate put his jandal over the exhaust and with the cap off the expansion chamber the coolant was popping and bubbling.  So, off with all the parts I’d just reassembled and off with the H/E.  I also removed the exhaust elbow from the exhaust pipe and got a much better look at how manky and closed up it was (see photo 2).  Imagine my surprise when I removed the exhaust gasket from the H/E and started poking around with a screwdriver when the screwdriver opened up two holes in the back of the heat exchanger (photo 3).  I spoke with a marine mechanic about perhaps TIG welding the hole and putting a bead around the ‘gap’ where the exhaust gasket sits but he advised that it was not feasible.  So, just before the Summer holiday the boat was going to be unusable…..emptied the boat maintenance account, sold the wife and kids, and got a new HE and exhaust elbow  (none in the country so flown in within two days from Australia).

The reason I’m telling this story?  If you do your own maintenance it would pay to check this area once every couple of years at least (the same time you’re replacing the O-rings in the core area).  The H/E is a very poorly designed casting (and VERY expensive).  I asked the mechanic what I might do to prevent this reoccurring and the only advice he could give was to ensure that the coolant was changed as per the Volvo recommendation, and with the correct grade (as the antifreeze loses its anti-corrosive properties over time).  It also starts aerating more (how? Why? Not sure) – add fizzing bubbles to already compromised alloy and it starts eating away even more. 

I looked at alternative material exhaust elbow replacements but for expediency just went for the cast iron unit from Volvo.  Coming from a DIY background where we are used to fabricating some of our own parts, it really hurts to have to fork out big money for parts like this! 

Pleased to say that I don’t think there are any other issues as a result of this event.

Cheers,
Griff

The Other Woman

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Re: Volvo D2-40B Coolant Loss/Heat Exchanger issue
« Reply #1 on: December 21 2017, 14:25 »
Think its what happens to me a couple of years ago.
This is what I put on the forum.


Bavaria 36 Year 2000 Engine MD2030C

After being on the hard we launched early April. On starting the engine water was coming out the exhaust but then the sound from the exhaust became louder no water was flowing.
I fit a new impeller but water was still not flowing. On closer investigation when the pipe was removed from the inflow of the intercooler, water flowed but exhaust gases where coming back through the intercooler, so the pump could not over come the pressure.
Then I noticed there was no water in the engine cooling and I had checked this 1 hour before.
The problem was the aluminium heat exchanger body had blown a hole near the exhaust elbow and water was just running into the exhaust out of the engine. Volvo?s price for replacement £2000.00 :sick.  So had a mate to weld it up for me £60 ;D.
 
Then on looking at the elbow it had total broken up on the inner sleeve, this made it easy for the back pressers to be directed up back across the heat exchange not allowing water to flow. Have now made a 316l stainless steel elbow ;D

Therefore I agree with S/Y Susanne you have to keep an eye on the elbow :tbu. I will be taking the elbow off every year when winterising just to clean and observe and would suggest some boat owners would be shocked at what they saw as these elbows are not just on Bavaria boats ::).

MarkTheBike

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Re: Volvo D2-40B Coolant Loss/Heat Exchanger issue
« Reply #2 on: December 21 2017, 19:47 »
Hi KiwiGriff, welcome to the best Bavaria forum on the net.

Yep, same thing here with a MD2030D (2001), the only difference being that mine sucked water back into the cylinder and I just avoided hydro-locking it. Long hours and a bucket of dosh but eventually fixed. I now check mine every 2-3 years. I did read somewhere at the time that there's a type of paint that can be slooshed around inside all the castings that reduces the corrosion but have searched many times since and never found it again. Perhaps one of the others can throw a light on that.

Cheers
ATB

Mark

Craig

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Re: Volvo D2-40B Coolant Loss/Heat Exchanger issue
« Reply #3 on: December 22 2017, 04:05 »
Just a few thoughts on the Coolant / Exhaust system. According to my experience ( 2009 D1-30F) and advice from a Volvo agent, these are the common issues with the coolant system.

1. The exhaust elbow often goes on engines more than 8 years old. Don't know of any preventative maintenance but if you notice change in the exhaust, check it out as in some cases, the exhaust water may go back in the cylinders.  Unlikely but can happen)
2. The Volvo wet exhaust is subject to corrosion of the stainless steel ends. This is expensive to fix so I replaced with a plastic Vetus exhaust for a fraction of the price and appears to be working well.
3. Heat exchanger does need cleaning every few years ( a bit of debate about frequency) or if you lose and salt water impellor blades. These blades will jam in the inlet side of the heat exchanger.
4. Seals on the salt water impellor shaft do regularly. There is an oil seal and a salt water seal at the back of the impellor. As soon as any leakage is observed, repair as soon as possible and definitely, do not block the outlet hole.
5. Holes through the heat exchanger as mentioned in these posts are a problem. If your boat is stored on the hard, run fresh water through the salt water system ( hose in salt water inlet with engine in idle. Better still, if you can flush some anti-corrosion radiator coolant until this comes out the exhaust, even better).
6. Often overlooked is the heat exchanger in the fresh water heating tank. Can't do any servicing as such but if a hole appears, you will have the boats fresh water enter the engine fresh water coolant if the domestic fresh water pump is on. Water will run out of the coolant reservoir until domestic fresh water tank is emptied. You will hear the pressure pump cycle regularly and this can happen with the engine on or off. If the domestic fresh water pressure pump is not turned on, it is possible to have engine coolant slowly drain into the heater tank but I haven't heard this happening. I've been advised that a possible cause of this heat exchanger failing is running the engine with the heater tank empty. By not having water on both sides of the heat exchanger it may crack. I don't know how real this bit of advice is, but the Turkish Volvo agents swore by it.
7. Vibration has caused some reservoir tanks to fall off.

regards
Craig
"Shirley Valentine"
Gold Coast
Australia

KiwiGriff

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Re: Volvo D2-40B Coolant Loss/Heat Exchanger issue
« Reply #4 on: January 15 2018, 04:50 »
Chaps,
just thought I'd update y'all on this. Apologies for the delayed response - busy fixing it and getting ready for the Christmas cruise and just back yesterday after three weeks away.  Seems that Volvo has listened to the critics and changed the design of the back side of the heat exchanger to remove the 'sill' that was there.  See the attached picture.  Had a new H/E imported from Oz and fitted it and drained and added new (green) coolant in about an hour and fitted the new exhaust elbow.  Very pleased to say that no problems since with that side - engine revs higher (2900 without the little bit of black smoke that it used to produce).  Really pleased.  The Quick anchor winch and built in fridge died within a day of the start of the cruise but those are other stories..... So pleased this forum is back up and running.
Cheers,
Griff