Caymann winch

[Lunty]

I have a 2001 Bavaria 37 with the caymann 88 for dropping and weighing the anchor it dropped ok but stopped with no reason on pulling anchor back up I checked the trip on the switch panel above chart table and it still wouldn’t operate is there another trip switch anywhere?

[symphony2]

Yes there should be a circuit breaker. From memory it is behind the cushion just in front of the chart table.

[sy_Anniina]

If you can lower the anchor using the winch control buttons (without free-falling), but not get up, I would suspect faulty switch and/or connector rather than blown breaker / fuse.

On our B40 (same vintage) the has a general purpose C13 / C14 connector between handheld switch and winch. This connector type is not so well protected from water ingress / corrosion, so it is quite likely yours has had some damage.

BR,

Tommi
s/y Anniina

[Salty]

I have a 2001 Bavaria 37 with the caymann 88 for dropping and weighing the anchor it dropped ok but stopped with no reason on pulling anchor back up I checked the trip on the switch panel above chart table and it still wouldn’t operate is there another trip switch anywhere?

Your problem could well be due to the original control cabling being still in place. When your boat was built Bavaria used ordinary copper cabling which corrodes over time. On my B36(2002) the directional control cabling was replaced when the boat was less than ten years old, with tinned copper cable and after that there were no further problems with the windlass not wanting to run in one direction or the other. An alternative cure would be to fit a radio controlled system for operating the solenoid located behind the main switchboard. If you look elsewhere within the forum records you will see where several owners, myself included have purchased very cheap radio control systems purchased through ebay for as little as £10. This bypassed the need for a long set of copper wires to control the windlass.
After taking out the old copper control cables they were found to have corroded throughout their entire length, and that effectively prevented the signal from the original hand or foot operated controller from getting back to the windlass solenoid, and which temporarily shut down a most useful electric windlass.

[Lunty]

Hello everyone and thanks for your help I have checked all wiring and switching there is power at the winch and when I press either up or down on the control I hear a lied clicking from this box behind the fuse panel see picture but winch will not budge is it this that’s giving me the problem

[symphony2]

That is the control box and the contacts are sticking. Best to replace it.

[Ziffius]

https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Lofrans/Control-Box-3-Terminal-24V-500-1700W/M9N?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=base&stock=28859&gclid=CjwKCAjwq7aGBhADEiwA6uGZp96wE5T-NcxiPTmchA5q6OBKFe4NZhf0p2OIVwD8fBwGeZXaD5ni4RoCGJoQAvD_BwE
 Not too extortionate

[symphony2]

OK except you need the 12v version force4.co.uk/item/Lofrans/Control-Box-3-Terminal-12V-500-1700w/HCT

[Lunty]

Thanks everyone for your input I gave the windlass a hard tap and it started working all this after checking fuses changing switches I think it needs a service are they easily serviced?

[symphony2]

In theory yes. You will find the Lofrans manuals etc here lofrans.com/library

However, in my experience with a Cayman 88 on exactly the same boat as you have is that you may have great difficulty in taking it apart because the fastenings are stainless in aluminium and if it has not been taken apart in the past and reassembled with a barrier between the fastenings and the casing they will be seized solid. On mine (after only 10 years the base had corroded such that one mounting stud just fell out and the others were seized solid - as were all the other fastenings. Decided not to bother mucking about and just bought a new one. Not expensive in the whole scheme of things. Important before installing to paint the bare aluminium base and bed it down on a solid gasket (I used a piece of cutting board) rather than the sponge gasket and remove all the fastenings and put them back in with Duralec on the threads.

It is a very robust bit of kit but needs care to get a long service life out of it.