On my B36 2002, I used the bow roller fairlead for a single rope up from the buoy, over the bow roller and lead to the starboard bow mooring cleat. In addition I used a separate line from the port forward mooring cleat to a point on the buoy mooring line about half way between the bow roller and the starboard mooring cleat. The rope from the port mooring cleat was wrapped around the buoy mooring rope about three complete turns, and was pulled back towards the port side cleat in order to make a “Y” shaped mooring on deck. This prevented the buoy mooring line from pulling against one side of the bow roller which on my boat was a relatively lightweight structure that got damaged during my first year on that mooring during a strong blow. The bow roller was straightened that winter and was beefed up considerably, but thereafter I had already adopted the “Y” shaped arrangement on deck, and no further damage was experienced.
Other larger boats also using moorings there made similar arrangements, and later the sailing club modified the mooring buoys and began to provide mooring bridles using 3” circumference polysteel (actually a UV stabilised polypropylene) mooring rope which allowed boats to take each end of the bridle to the cleats on port and starboard sides. The anchor I had was lifted out of the bow roller prior to mooring and was laid on deck port side where it was secured to the first pulpit stanchion on that side.
A word of warning regarding leaving your anchor in place, is that considerable chafing can occur during a blow, such that if you haven't taken precautions to prevent such chafe between your anchor and the mooring rope, like moving the anchor out of the way, your pride and joy might end up adrift, or on the putty along with a severed mooring line/bridle.
With proper precautions in place to prevent chafeing of the mooring line, I enjoyed ten seasons on a swinging mooring with no further mishap.