Gasket 3580968 why cost $300!

[aquapore]

Hi all
This is a simple gasket that seals the heat exchanger ends of a Volvo Penta D2-55
Is is ca 100mm square gasket with 4 bolt holes - very low pressure seal.

 I priced this gasket from several suppliers at ca $300 each (there are two on the unit)

Anyone can explain why the price - Is it some mistake or are we simply being ripped off by Volvo?

I recently replace the water pump by buying through Perkins at $125 whereas Volvo wanted $700.

Regards

Aquapore

[Yngmar]

I believe that's a metal gasket, so can be re-used.

For paper gaskets, simply buy a sheet of gasket paper and cut your own.

[diverphil]

try parts 4 engines, full heat exchanger gasket and seal kit £15 , they say worldwide delivery.

[IslandAlchemy]

I know just the gasket you mean.

It's made of solid 24ct gold.

Ok, maybe not, but VP have just priced it like that.

[MagicalArmchair]

Interestingly, the kit by Parts4Engines does not include that gasket:

https://www.parts4engines.com/volvo-penta-d2-55-heat-exchanger-gasket-and-seal-kit/

The mega pricey gasket:



And the Parts4engines kit:



Does yours definitely need replacing...? I'll ask the question of Parts4Engines myself on the fourth as I have the same rebuild underway...

[aquapore]

Thanks for your reply
I don't know what is going on.
The whole heat exchanger is sealed by "O" rings.
So why do we need a gasket.
I have surveyed several sites which offer parts from d2-55's. My is a model "A" and some of the parts sites show no gasket at all at this location.

I will ring Volvo after the holidays to check but I am comfortable with no gasket.

Regards

Aquapore.

[IslandAlchemy]

The gasket and O rings keep the coolant and raw water separate.  Without it, they will ix and destroy your heat exchanger.

They are made of brass of DTZ or something like that.

[MagicalArmchair]

When my heat exchanger comes back from the engineering shop (flange with exhaust elbow being remade), I'm taking that chamber apart, so I will take many photos for you if that helps?

[Darren]

MagicalArmchair- I have the same issue with my heat exchanger (corrosion around the elbow join) and am investigating an aluminum weld repair by a specialist. I would be interested to hear what kind of job it turned out to be and if it is worth going that route rather than fitting a (expensive) new one. Did you remove the insert tubes before sending off, and did the square gaskets come away un-damaged?
Do you mind me asking were you are getting yours repaired? ( I am UK based)
Regards

[aquapore]

When I bought my Bav 41, I  had a blow hole in the exhaust manifold about 10 mm diam in very close to the exhaust flange that is coupled to the elbow.

I took it to a Aluminum welding shop where he made a new flange out of thick Al flat bar, appropriately machined, cut off the old one, welded up the hole, and with a very large fillet welded welded on the newly fabricated flange. That was about 5 years ago. Job cost me about $500 aus. I think any descent  small scale shop can do the repair.

I also recycled my elbow by removing the carbon, by grinding, burning etc to bare metal. It was heavily pitted, but what can you expect from bare cast iron.

I note that someone has put up a post showing a stainless steel version. That will certainly stop the corrosion but not the carbonisation which is difficult to remove.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Aquapore

[Yngmar]

I don't know if it's the same on the D2-55, but on our MD22 the carbon deposits (before the water connector) burn off when you run the engine at full throttle every now and then. You can see it leaving the boat in a big grey smoke cloud (no, it isn't steam, nor oil)!

We do this every few hours of motoring, in which case you only need to do it for 1-2 minutes. If you've never done it, probably quite a lot longer.

May not be the same for the D2-55 though, but perhaps worth a try. A good workout does wonders for a diesel engine. Especially ones that are normally run at a fixed, low to mid rpm. Very noticeable in my company car days 

[symphony2]

Don't think it is specific to the D2 engines, but general to small marine diesels. These engines are designed to run continuously at 70%+ maximum power whereas typical yacht owners only run them for short periods at well below that - sometimes in the mistaken belief that they are being kind to the engine and extending its life. The reality is that it is almost impossible to wear out the mechanicals in leisure use and most engines fail because of cooling or exhaust problems directly related to short low power running. some manufacturers such as Yanmar positively recommend periodic short periods of maximum power in the way you describe. In my experience Bavarias are propped to allow them to run close to maximum, so not a problem to do short runs at full power every so often, preferably towards the end of a long motoring period when everything is nice and hot. The 2030 in my old 37 did well over 3000 hours when it was on charter in the Ionian. Charterers were told to cruise at 2400 rpm and not to leave the engine idling for long periods. seems to work as the engine gave no trouble and still had its original exhaust elbow when I sold it after13 years.

[IslandAlchemy]

Agree with Symphony.  I keep saying that it's better to be slightly underpowered and have to work the engine, than be overpowered and have the engine "just ticking along".

It seems that Bavaria (along with their competitors) keep putting bigger engines in, in order to get one-up on each other, and because the consumer is told by the industry that "bigger is better", they make more money whilst giving buyers what they "think" they need.

A diesel engine should be cruised at between 2/3 and 3/4 of maximum revs.  It you tickle your MD-22 or D2 engine along at 2,000 rpm, then you are simply building up problems.