Seacock sizes

[IslandAlchemy]

Just about to order some new ones, but as a double-check on the sizes, can I ask for confirmation please:-

Heads inlet - 3/4" seacock with 19mm id hose connector

Heads outlet - 1.5" seacock with 38mm id hose connector.

Are these sizes correct please? Boat is a 2003 J&J model.

Ta

[Salty]

The seacock sizes you have quoted are the same sizes that Were originally fitted on my J&J Bav 36(2002). These I replaced with TruDesign grp valves which are a little more bulky than the bronze or DZR valves originally fitted and this on my single heads + three sleeping cabins boat lead to some unusual fitting techniques as the space within the under washbasin cabinet was limited such that some innovative thinking was needed in order to install the new valves. This involved fitting all of the internal parts together first, and finally screwing the through hull fitting through the hull, through the loosely fitted internal backing nut and into the connection on the valve. Lastly the loosely fitted internal nut was then tightened up to the inner side of the hull, and all with a few cuss words added on account of the awkwardness of the fitting operation due to the very limited space which prevented being able to fit and turn the internal parts. If yours is a B36, you will probably see what I was getting at if you fit the TrueDesign valves.

Good luck.

[Symphony]

Yes, those are the correct sizes. Make sure, if you are buying metal ones that they are DZR. Most chandlers such as ASAP, Force 4  etc clearly label them as such and differentiate from plain brass. More importantly replace the skin fittings and hose tails with either DZR or bronze as it is these components that are more prone to dezincification. DZR are typically twice the price of plain brass - 1 1/2" is north of £70 retail for just the valve. Don't bother with trying to dismantle them but carefully grind off the outer flanges and pull the whole assemblies out from inside the boat. Also worth changing the shower and sink drain outlets while you are at it as often access to these is easier while you have the toilet ones out.

[IslandAlchemy]

Thanks both, just wanted to make sure before buying.

Am going for TruDesign kit, so thanks for the heads-up on how to fit them (that was the way I was thinking of doing it anyway, to ensure that everything went in facing the right way).

Cheers

Bob

[Yngmar]

If you have insufficient space to turn the TruDesign ball valves during installation, remember you can temporarily remove the handles by prying off the small blue round plug over the handle screw and undoing the screw. The handle can then be reinstalled after the valve is screwed onto the hull fitting.

[IslandAlchemy]

Yes, those are the correct sizes. Make sure, if you are buying metal ones that they are DZR. Most chandlers such as ASAP, Force 4  etc clearly label them as such and differentiate from plain brass. More importantly replace the skin fittings and hose tails with either DZR or bronze as it is these components that are more prone to dezincification. DZR are typically twice the price of plain brass - 1 1/2" is north of £70 retail for just the valve. Don't bother with trying to dismantle them but carefully grind off the outer flanges and pull the whole assemblies out from inside the boat. Also worth changing the shower and sink drain outlets while you are at it as often access to these is easier while you have the toilet ones out.

I wasn't going to bother replacing the outlets which above the waterline, as they shouldn't have suffer from de-zinctification (because they are not immersed in seawater and all work fine.

[Symphony]

It is not the valves per se that are the problem, but the skin fittings where the threads dezincify. Although the outlets are not permanently below the waterline they do get exposed to salt water, particularly if the seal to the hull degrades. At least give them a good wack with a mallet - won't do any damage if they are sound, but will expose any weakness.