Main traveler control lines

[ejessen]

The main traveler control lines on my 2001 Bavaria 40 AC, go in under the dodger and can be secured by using two, small cleats. See attached picture.

Getting the control lines off/on these cleats on every tack is a bit of a pain, and I am looking into options to replace the cleats with a cam-cleat.

One problem is, that I do not see a way to get access to the bolts/washers that I'd have to use, to secure the cam cleat.  In the cabin, the "ceiling" below the rope clutches is covered with hard plastic. Don't think I want to start cutting holes in that...

Anyone come across a simple solution to this?

-- Erik 

[Yngmar]

There is an aluminium plate glassed into the coachroof where the rope clutches are, but I'm not sure it extends forward to the point where that cleat is, so the cleat is probably just screwed into fibreglass. Are the cleats an original item or retrofit?

I'd fit the camcleat further back, nearer the rope clutches. You can use a cheap stud finder to detect where the embedded alu plate begins and ends.

[kavok]

http://forum.amicidellavela.it/attachment.php?aid=34567

my solution in Bavaria 40 Cruiser 2008.

I also add stopper and use winch whwn necessary.

http://forum.amicidellavela.it/attachment.php?thumbnail=41992

http://forum.amicidellavela.it/attachment.php?thumbnail=41989

[sy_Anniina]

Our traveller (same model as yours - 2001 B40 AC) has cam cleats at the ends of the traveller. I have been thinking about moving these cleats between the companionway and Rutgerson stoppers, as this would align the current routing. See photo for details

[kavok]

I think cannot will work simply.

[ejessen]

My setup is a little different. See attached photo. There is a lead that guides the traveler line out to the outside of the other lines.
 

[Symphony]

I don't think that is a standard factory arrangement but something added later. Perhaps not a very good modification as it makes the jamming cleat even more inaccessible than the standard one on the end of the track. It would, however make sense if the jammer was replaced by a simple turning block and the tail brought back to where the clutches are. However, not sure there is a plate to the right of the current clutches which would be the logical place. The existing plate may, however run to the left of the clutches so that you could add another one and move all the current lines over so the traveller line could use the outermost one. Downside is that the inside one would not have a very fair lead as it is close to the hatch housing.

I would be a bit concerned about the current mounting for the jammers unless they are through bolted as I don't think there is a plate to tap into where they are located. It is possible to through bolt but it means cutting an access panel in the inner liner directly under the fitting and you can then through bolt with a backing pad and use the cutout as a basis for a cover to hide the fittings. Requires a bit of careful measuring to get the cutout in the liner in the right place and ingenuity to make a neat job of the cover.

[AFRiCA]

I have owned a 2001, 42ft sloop for 12 years. Simple solution is to tie off the traveller car in the centre. If you are cruising it will make no difference to the yachts performance and it will be one less thing you have to worry about. Once the traveller car is secure in the centre you can remove control lines and cleats to tidy up the control lines under the dodger. I have cruised with this modification for two years and all is working well. 

[IslandAlchemy]

My traveller has all but died and I can't really adjust it anyway as the cleats are on the ends of the traveller on the other side of the sprayhood, so I'm going to remove it, put a u-bolt at each end in the strong points, and make up a vectran bridal instead.

[sy_Anniina]

Nice feature in Erik's line routing is the ability to adjust traveller with sprayhood up utilizing existing line routes under the sprayhood. Our B40 does not seem to have even filled screw holes at positions where Erik has deflection pulleys, so definitely looks like later modification.

Like Yngmar suggested, a cheap stud / metal finder should be able to help you locate the Al-plate for new camcleat or stopper installation next to halyard stoppers. I used this method when adding camcleats for endless furling line.

BR,

Tommi
s/y Anniina

[Symphony]

Going back to the photos, I realise that the additional blocks are only turning blocks rather than blocks and cam cleats as used on the standard travellers, so there is a need for some means of cleating off the tail. As far as I know there are no embedded plates anywhere other than where factory fitted (either standard or optional) attachments are made. In the case of the clutches, the area where the plate is fitted is indicated by a raised portion of the coachroof. You can see this on the photo in the first post. Hence my suggestion that there is room to fit another clutch inboard of the current ones and move all the lines over one to free up the outside one for the traveller line.

I agree somewhat with AFRiCA about the benefit of adjusting the traveller. Based on my experience on my 37 the adjustment available makes little or no difference when cruising, particularly if the boat has a furling mainsail. Adjustable travellers have their place on more performance orientated boats with rigs that are designed to be  adjusted to optimize performance. The fact that the traveller is both short in relation to the size of the mainsail and adjustment is not easy suggests that the designers did not antiipate the need for frequent adjustment.

[kavok]

My solution. It work well. But need doubled foot mast blocks and new stoppers. Move the main travel is important in light air and in heavy air. The Cruiser 40 m.y. 2008  is designed as a fast cruiser, I can assure that moving the travel you can obtain better balance on the rudder very useful under autopilot.
I just explained   but I am not sure you seen the images.

[kavok]

Images

[Mirror45184]

On B40 Cruiser 2009, we have run the control lines forward around a turning block then via a 2:1 purchase back to a cam cleat aft of the primary winch. This allows me to adjust the traveler from the helm position or with a crew by the main sheet trimmer. There is a bit of friction as the line along the cabin top does drag on this. It can be pumped to adjust up and location of the cleat is handy.