Alternator data for standard VP 115A /12V

[SYJetzt]

Does anybody have a data sheet for the standard VP alternator 12V/115A as fitted on the D2 engines or know where to get ?
In my case it is a mitsubishi A003TR0091 type, but i assume that there are several compatible brands on the market.
Information diagrams about power/rpm, max power/ ambient temperature would be highly appreciated.
 

[Yngmar]

You can ask Mitsubishi Electric directly: https://aftermarket.mitsubishielectric.eu/products?find_part_product=Alternator&find_part_manufacturer=VOLVO+PENTA&find_part_vehicle=Marine&find_part_amps=115#product_selector

There's a "Contact Us" page on there with email and phone number. Good luck, not sure they publish a data sheet with rpm/power curves, all I could find was dimension drawings.

From practical experience helping a friend boat with two of these (catamaran), they are prone to overheating and even with thermal management shutting them off at 80°C temperature on the case, the built-in regulators on both of them fried eventually, so they now put out an unregulated 15V

At that temperature you get around 70A out of them (each) at cruising rpm (don't recall what that was for his boat), but need thermal management to cycle on and off to avoid overheating. The integrated fan is quite insufficient. So if you want to charge a hungry lithium bank they're definitely not well suited. If you must, at least fit an external regulator or additional cooling for the built-in one, but I'd probably look at fitting a Balmar or similar.

[SYJetzt]

I agree with you.
I'm charging a lithium house bank over a 70A B2B charger connected between starter battery(lead) and house bank. Alternator feeds the starter battery. B2B charger gets a trigger from D+ from alternator. At low revs the alternator charges with unsufficient power (less than 70A) and the B2B drains the starter battery beneath 12,8V causing an low battery alarm on the the VP MDI/EVC. So i added a voltage monitoring relay to cut off the trigger for the B2B beneath 13V on starter battery. Temperature problem as mentioned, slaughtered the first standard regulator, due to low revs and alternator getting more than 90°C. Added a thermoswitch 90°C, which cuts off the trigger too. Now the system works fine without self destruction, but due to voltage and temperature cutoff at a duty cycle of 20% at idling revs and 65% at engine revs>1400. Maybe there is a potential of improvement in fine tuning the mentioned values, but i think in general i need more power.
I tried to get detailed info about alternator data, but until today in vain.
Balmar systems seem better and well documented, but have their price.
I found a improved version of the alternator (200A instead of 115A), price far lower (500€) than a whole balmar system.
https://kohl24.de/de/Lichtmaschinen/Lichtmaschine-Volvo-Penta-D1-D2-D4-D6-D9-D11-D13-IPS-usw.-Mitsubishi-A003TR0091-A003TR0092-A003TR0093-A003TR0094-A3TR0091-A3TR0092-A3TR0093-A3TR0094-14-Volt-200-Ampere-verstaerkte-Version-Made-in-Germany
I asked for detailed data, so i will see.

[tiger79]

Balmar systems seem better and well documented, but have their price.
I found a improved version of the alternator (200A instead of 115A), price far lower (500€) than a whole balmar system.
https://kohl24.de/de/Lichtmaschinen/Lichtmaschine-Volvo-Penta-D1-D2-D4-D6-D9-D11-D13-IPS-usw.-Mitsubishi-A003TR0091-A003TR0092-A003TR0093-A003TR0094-A3TR0091-A3TR0092-A3TR0093-A3TR0094-14-Volt-200-Ampere-verstaerkte-Version-Made-in-Germany
I asked for detailed data, so i will see.

Also consider a Prestolite alternator.  These tend to have good current output at lower revs and are very well built.  (Balmar alternators are Prestolites with a coat of white paint.)