Dilemma - refurbishing or changing engine ( d2 55 on bv 44 2004)

[elias]

Hi !
We are thinking of making a major service on the engine . Elbow , muffler , gaskets on crankshaft ( cause of oil leakage) maybe new cooler , new engine mounts , diesel injectors etc.
Do you think that maybe buying a new engine could be better ?
The engine hasn’t any issues so far

[tiger79]

Hi !
We are thinking of making a major service on the engine . Elbow , muffler , gaskets on crankshaft ( cause of oil leakage) maybe new cooler , new engine mounts , diesel injectors etc.
Do you think that maybe buying a new engine could be better ?
The engine hasn’t any issues so far

If no issues, why are you thinking of doing all that work?  A 15 year old engine shouldn't really need much work unless it's done thousands of hours.

[elias]

She has been in charter since 2014, lets say average 20 weeks per year, with 2-3 hours per day, 300 hours per year, 4500 hours till now, isn't a lot?

[Rampage]

My 2030 is 20 years old next April and has 4275 hours on it.  No thoughts of doing anything to it unless something gives, at which point it’s a relatively simple question: will the cost of replacing the broken bit come anywhere near say 60% of a new engine?   If it will, then I’d probably replace the engine, less and I’d have the repair done.
Some friends of mine have just spent a small fortune on refurbishing their elderly VP engine rather than replacement because replacement would have entailed serious surgery to the boat to shoehorn a new engine in, which is another factor to consider.

[elias]

I m waiting for an offer from the local Volvo dealer for both options . I was just wondering what is the lifespan of an d2 55 from other sailors experience

[tiger79]

She has been in charter since 2014, lets say average 20 weeks per year, with 2-3 hours per day, 300 hours per year, 4500 hours till now, isn't a lot?

Most boat engines die as a result of lack of use; yours certainly has had good use.  But, if you've had no issues with it, why start messing about with it other than recommended maintenance?

[elias]

True , but I’m afraid not to enter a spiral of maintenance . Also I here a whining of the drive at a certain spectrum of revs and while sailing after 7.5 knots

[Symphony]

These engines are lifed for between 8-10000 hours. The pattern of use with yours is the best type of usage, and no reason why any of the work you suggest needs doing, except perhaps for the crankshaft oil seal which is probably causing the leak. That is an engine out job and makes sense to change the saildrive diaphragm and lower housing oil seals at the same time to make full use of the labour time. Expect around 20 hours for removal and replacement plus materials for the diaphragm (£3-400) and the cost of replacing the oil seal - maybe 10 hours at most.

If it starts well, runs to maximum, does not smoke or overheat then doubt there is any need to do anything with the injectors or the heat exchanger. Make sure coolant is clean and tested, although should be changed regularly anyway. By all means remove the elbow, but suspect it will be clear unless you are experiencing loss of power and poor starting.

These engines are best left alone - just change all fluids and filters according to the schedule. Run at the recommended cruising revs (2-2500rpm) with occasional short bursts at maximum. Avoid light load running such as battery charging and low revs motorsailing as much as possible.

Like Rampage my last boat with a 2030 was on charter with a similar regime to yours. Was still running perfectly when I sold it at 3500 hours and the only replacement on the engine was the alternator. Elbow, injectors, heat exchanger, water pump had never been touched.

[elias]

I m going for the diaphragm for sure , engine mounts ( has started vibrating at neutral no revs and at the starboard half of the engine near the mounts the engine seems to touch completely the hull while the other part you can cross between the hull a paper film). As about the whining high frequency noise I’m thinking maybe some bearings in the drive needs change ?

[Symphony]

The noise may well come from the bearings in the lower drive housing which are relatively easy to change at the same time as replacing the seals. Mounts are easy to change while the diaphragm is being replaced. Word of warning though, such noises are very difficult to identify without taking things apart and you need to keep a close eye on the dealer as their costs can run away. So get a firm commitment from them that what they propose doing will cure the problem!

[nightowle]

Symphony,

Could the noise be coming from bearings other than the lower ones?  I ask because I'm getting a whine between 1800 and 2000 rpm with my MD 2030 C and saildrive.  I'm going to do an oil analysis to see if there's excessive metal.  Otherwise, searching around does indicate it could possibly be something with the fixed prop that causes a squealing noise.  I'd hate to think I have to rebuild the entire drive leg.

For the OP:  I would stick with your current engine if you have indications that regular maintenance was done

[Symphony]

Could be what is known as a "singing" prop, although more common on bronze props with sharper edges to the blade rather than the thick aluminium props. The first thing to do with oil is to check for water in the oil - milky rather than clear. This is a sign that water has leaked past the lower oil seals which can then cause bearing failure or wear on the shaft. Not sure oil analysis per se will pick up indications of bearing wear as any metal residue will sink to the bottom of the housing. Taking the front cover off the housing will both drain the oil and expose the seals and bearings for inspection. Good videos on You Tube on how to do this including replacing the seals and bearings plus resleeving the shaft if worn.

To be honest, though, if the noise is just over than narrow rev range then why not just avoid running at those revs. Best cruising speed with a 2030 is between 22-2400 rpm.You are right to be wary of opening up the main drive unit. Even Volvo dealers avoid doing this as the 120 drive has been out of production for 15 years or so and spares are hard to find and very expensive. However they are very robust and the only real source of failure is a seized clutch pack, usually caused by  over enthusiastic slamming from forward to reverse on a regular basis. This happened on my charter boat and I replaced the whole drive with a later 130 type. Nowadays these cost getting on for £5k and if this happens then a complete engine/drive change is the only sensible route unless you can find a good used drive unit.

[elias]

Thanks for all,
For sure the seal will be changed , engine mounts and the gaskets for the leaking . As about the singing prop , since oil is super good and the prop is aluminum I ll go for bearing check / replacing .SYMPHONY if you can share some relative videos that would be great !
Volvo suggests also a deep cleaning of the engine coolant system with a specific procedure that I will follow via the local dealer . Elbow check and muffler chance ( has some minor tear drops in the welding ) . Also a check on the injectors don’t you think that it would be a good idea ?

[Symphony]

Google Volvo saildrive oil seal replacement for a range of how to do it references, many of them from other forums. With regard to noise from the prop while sailing, this is quite normal if you leave the prop spinning in neutral. You can stop it by putting in reverse gear. not recommended by Volvo but many do it seemingly without any ill effect. Alternatively replace the fixed prop with a folding one such as a FlexoFold which does not spin when you are sailing. Not familiar with the coolant system deep clean, but really should not need it if the coolant has been changed regularly. Remember it is fresh water with antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors specifically formulated to prevent any build up of deposits. It is the saltwater circuit through the heat exchanger that might warrant inspection.

[elias]

Once again a good point ! Thanks !

[tiger79]

With regard to noise from the prop while sailing, this is quite normal if you leave the prop spinning in neutral. You can stop it by putting in reverse gear. not recommended by Volvo but many do it seemingly without any ill effect.

It is recommended by Volvo Penta!  The D1 D2 Operator's Manual says "When sailing, set the control lever to astern if a folding propeller is fitted. If a fixed propeller is fitted the control lever should be set in neutral or reverse. When using a fixed propeller and sailing with the control lever set to reverse the speed is slowed down though less noise is being made."

[Salty]

Ref reply No.11 from Symphony about a singing propeller. If you haven’t done it already, go to You Tube and search for singing propeller and compare the noise you hear with the sound from some the You Tube videos, it was a dead giveaway. After examining the prop, it was the original aluminium one, there was a chip of paint missing. I swapped the prop for a folding bronze one I’d purchased a year or two earlier off eBay, and the noise disappeared.
The missing chip of paint was about the size of a thumb nail, and occurred soon after launching following the winter lay up.