What glue is it ...

[Boatname]

that holds up all the little wooden mounts around my boat?

Particularly in the lazarette, but also in the starboard locker are lots of presumably offcuts of wood stuck to the hull. Then clips are screwed to them and they support considerable weight. For a glued piece of wood 

One example is the exhaust hose.

I’d like to do similar as just about every screw in my boat that holds a panel is not 100% tight due to them being screwed directly to gelcoat.

Access plate for mast wires behind main bulkhead.
Access plate to underside of binnacle inside rear cabin. 
Instrument panel in cockpit.
Volvo instrument panel.

I’m sure there are more.

What I’d like to do is get some wood, dob on some glue, drill a pilot hole for each existing hole in the wood, reuse screws.

I’d also like to glue a strip along the inside front of the binnacle and fit clips to take the multiple wires that are there.

I did try “something” some time ago, probably Bosticy, but it didn’t last. Probably because the surface is irregular.

I want splodge 

[Symphony]

There are 3 possibles. The simplest and cheapest is a "grabit" type adhesive such as "Sticks like Sh-t" from any DIY or builders merchant.i use this for just the applications you cite. It needs a bit of light pressure for a short period (minute or 2) plus a few hours to get up to strength. For example I have a row of coat pegs bought from B&Q glued inside the cockpit locker to hang warps on. Been there for 4 years now and still secure. Also glued a pad to mount isolaters for the water feeds to the deck shower to the hull in the lazarette. A polyurethane adhesive such as CT1 or Sika will be stronger but is messier to use and probably needs a longer period of pressure to hold on a vertical surface. The strongest is epoxy but that needs clamping so is not practical when you only have access to one surface.

No doubt others will come up with other methods/materials.

[Boatname]

I thought you were being a bit generic when you described the glue as Sticks Like Sh t. 

But it exists!!!

Given that it has held up your warps for so long it really sounds more than strong enough.

£5.99 at Screwfix, off there tomorrow.

Many thanks

[Lyra]

from what I saw on my boat all the small wooden blocks were glued using polyester (or epoxy - less likely, since polyester is what is used anyhow for fiberglass).
I used thickened epoxy to glue some blocks where I needed them (and also used it to "glue" the base holding my under the deck autopilot to the hull).

[dgmultimedia]

that holds up all the little wooden mounts around my boat?...

Plexus MA300 50ML = I have just done exactly what you are talking about - renewed the fixings around the instrument panel on my binnacle - small Hard wood blocks or in my case 6mm thick fibreglass sheet cut into 10 x 30mm blocks.
The MA300 is a 2 part methyl acrylate adhesive - used with an ejection gun and mixing tube bonds to wood and fibreglass and sets in minutes so only needs minimal clamping time.... drill with the appropriate size and refix - job done in a couple of hours including surface prep....
DG

[Salty]

that holds up all the little wooden mounts around my boat?...

Plexus MA300 50ML = I have just done exactly what you are talking about - renewed the fixings around the instrument panel on my binnacle - small Hard wood blocks or in my case 6mm thick fibreglass sheet cut into 10 x 30mm blocks.
The MA300 is a 2 part methyl acrylate adhesive - used with an ejection gun and mixing tube bonds to wood and fibreglass and sets in minutes so only needs minimal clamping time.... drill with the appropriate size and refix - job done in a couple of hours including surface prep....
DG

Or the MA310 which has more body in the glue and a longer working life between mixing and it starting to set, and which might better meet your requirement for “Splodge!”  Both MA300 and MA310 are readily available through eBay. A dispensing gun and mixing tubes would be a further refinement, but would probably set you back another £20 or so.

[Funnes]

Are there even significant differences between the MA300 and MA310?

[Salty]

MA300 is a relatively thin liquid adhesive and srfaces to be joined need to be in reasonably close even contact with each other. Additionally the adhesive has a short working time before it sets of maybe 30 seconds or so. The MA310 is much thicker, it is gap filling so that a close even contact between surfaces is less demanding, and has a much longer working working time before it sets. You should ask the seller for details regarding the MA310 as it is not an adhesive I have used, whereas I have used the MA300 and had to work fast on account of the short time it took between mixing and setting.
Apart from that they are basically the same type of adhesive.

[dgmultimedia]

https://www.techsil.co.uk/products

Manufacturers website - every bit of detail - and there are many local suppliers on eBay

I personally used the MA300 as I was putting strengthening pads behind the instrument panel flange and in some positions it was easier to hold in place by hand rather than clamp - short set time was main benefit - even MA300 has enough filler that does not slump even on a vertical surface....
Using the gun dispenser with the mixing tube does allow time as the two components are only fully mixed when they reach the end of the tube so applying and positioning ( with clamps) I applied 8 pads in one session. by the time I was holding the last one by hand the first ones were firm - final hardening takes up to 12hrs depending on temp...
once job completed the mixing tube is disposed of as adhesive in the tube will set eventually...

Its a great adhesive - but wear gloves as methyl-Acrylate is hazardous....