Author Topic: Saildrive transmission overheated B38Ocean - thoughts & ideas  (Read 4635 times)

Jeffatoms

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Three weeks ago we returned from an 11 day cruise on which we put 40 hours on our MD22L w/120SE saildrive.  We check fluids at each start and were happy that the engine with 2100 hrs worked without issue.  Since then we have done three sails and two overnights with no issues...until Saturday.

From anchor saturday am, we checked fluids and didnt have to look far for trouble.  I opened the engine access door and saw transmission fluid pooled on the saildrive gasket.  I opened the saildrive dipstick and it let out a hiss.  The fluid was frothy white.  I then unspun the black fluid fill cap on the top of the saildrive and found two or three deformed washers jammed way up inside the black cap, the cap deformed by apparent high heat and froth.

As there was no wind, we had a friend standoff in a Moody 46 to tow us out of harbor but we opted for SeaTowUS back to our homeport slip.

We know we need to haul the boat and get the saildrive fixed.  We are curious:
1) Is high heat is common in the saildrive transmission?
2)did water enter at shaft seal?
3) Is it common to change shaft seals when one changes saildrive gasket?
4)how did washers get thrust so far into the melted cap?
5)how much will it cost to get it rebuilt?
6)does engine need to be pulled to get saildrive out?
7)How much is a new saildrive?
8)Does anyone stock rebuilt saildrive ready to swap the core?
9)if one were to open a normal 120SE top cap, what should it look like (photo please!)?


The photo is my cap with washers mangled and jammed up.

Thanks in advance for your considerations and advice!

Jeff & Sue

Yngmar

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Three weeks ago we returned from an 11 day cruise on which we put 40 hours on our MD22L w/120SE saildrive.  We check fluids at each start and were happy that the engine with 2100 hrs worked without issue.  Since then we have done three sails and two overnights with no issues...until Saturday.

From anchor saturday am, we checked fluids and didnt have to look far for trouble.  I opened the engine access door and saw transmission fluid pooled on the saildrive gasket.

Hope it wasn't transmission fluid! The 120S-E requires hypoid gear oil (API GL-5 SAE 75W-90), not transmission fluid (ATF). If it was truly transmission fluid, that could be part of the problem (incorrectly filled at last oil change).

I opened the saildrive dipstick and it let out a hiss.  The fluid was frothy white.  I then unspun the black fluid fill cap on the top of the saildrive and found two or three deformed washers jammed way up inside the black cap, the cap deformed by apparent high heat and froth.

1) Is high heat is common in the saildrive transmission?

No, ours (same engine/saildrive combination, MD22L-B and Saildrive 120S-E) is normally barely warm to the touch, it's cooled by the lower leg being immersed in the sea and the oil is circulated inside.


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2)did water enter at shaft seal?

Most likely. There is a remote chance the housing took damage, either mechanical or electrolysis, which will be obvious on haulout. There's an even more remote chance that the inner channels for oil/water have been breached, but that's very unlikely. There is a slim chance that the diaphragm change was done incorrectly and water seeped in along the gasket where the lower and upper housing are joined, but again this is unlikely.

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3) Is it common to change shaft seals when one changes saildrive gasket?

Yes, or at the very least to inspect them. The shaft must also be inspected, as wear often occurs on the shaft, in which case even with new seals it will no longer seal well.

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4)how did washers get thrust so far into the melted cap?

Not sure. It looks like the vertical shaft may have been shoved upwards into the cap, which would explain the heat (friction), melted cap and shoved up washers. Upon disassembly, you will likely find broken/worn teeth at the bottom of it then. This could be caused by something hitting or blocking the propeller very suddenly, or the vertical shaft retention failing (I'm not sure how it is retained exactly, but I believe it is removed upwards).

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5)how much will it cost to get it rebuilt?

Don't know, I usually do my own work as I've seen too much shockingly poor work by "professionals". Good ones are hard to find and rarely cheap.

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6)does engine need to be pulled to get saildrive out?

The engine only needs to move about 10cm forwards, for which on our 40 Ocean there is enough room to slide on the bearers without falling off. The rear needs to be supported from underneath to prevent the rear falling down into the engine sump when the saildrive is removed. A sturdy plank and some wedges did it for me.

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7)How much is a new saildrive?

Around £5000 plus tax and labour last I checked. Probably more now, as the £ is in the toilet. Additionally, the gear ratio is different on newer models (which the replacement will likely be), so you will also need a different propeller.

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8)Does anyone stock rebuilt saildrive ready to swap the core?

I've seen one or two on eBay over the years, but you'd have to get very lucky.

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9)if one were to open a normal 120SE top cap, what should it look like (photo please!)?

Haven't got a photo, but probably can take one in a while.

Good luck with this! I think the story can either be that water got in through the usual routed (failed lip seals/shaft wear) and caused this, although from reports I've heard, people have done many miles with a water/oil emulsion and reported little follow-up damage (water is a pretty good lubricant). Or that you've hit something that stopped the propeller so hard that the gear teeth were pushed apart and the shaft moved upwards. There should be plenty of evidence of this once the boat is hauled out and the propeller shaft removed. In that case, you should be able to make an insurance claim. If it was due to poor servicing (you mentioned a recent diaphragm change), you best get a lawyer.
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Salty

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I agree entirely with Yngmar’s replies, particularly that at point 5.

On a slightly different tack, on my B36(2002) the saildrive is a little different from the 120s, but I have noticed that the oil can be quite warm after a run. I have experienced and there  has been comment in various threads, of the water channel within the saildrive legs becoming blocked with marine growth, and there have been suggestions of bypassing the saildrive water inlet and fitting a separate inlet. Such bypassing arguably might result in the lubricant becoming hotter than it should due to the absence of cooling water passing through the water channel within the drive leg. Whether such change would allow the oil to reach the sort of temperature that might cause damage similar to that which you have suffered is a matter for conjecture, so it might be worth looking to see whether your cooling water comes through the saildrive, or through a separate inlet. If you have a separate cooling water inlet you might have difficulty in proving that overheating within the saildrive leg was not your fault.

Symphony

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Sorry to hear of your problems.

As Yngmar says, the 120 saildrive is obsolete - has been for nearly 15 years and the later 130/150 drive is very different, although it sits on the same mounts and will hook up to your engine OK. You will, however need a new propeller to suit the different gearbox ratio.

You will be unlikely to find spare parts to rebuild, nor anybody willing to do the job, so the first option is a complete new drive (or possibly a secondhand 120SE - sometimes available at least in the UK). Check out the price of a complete new drive - £5000 is a good guide to UK prices. This, plus labour, new prop and the fact that you current engine is 20 years old may lead you towards a complete engine/drive package. My experience in the UK of going through this process is that Volvo dealers can do a very good deal taking your old engine in exchange. A used engine with only 2100 hours on it has a good resale value.

As it happened I did not go down this route as the dealer was able to order a complete engine/drive, split the drive off and then order another transmission at OE prices. So my drive (in 2011) cost "only" £2300. This facility is no longer available to dealers - not surprising when Volvo charge twice that amount for just the drive as a servic part!

Unfortunately there is no practical alternative to another Volvo. Beta do sell a conversion package, but their drive unit requires modifications to fit and the drive itself is arguably not as good as the Volvo. Where a Beta does make sense is if the drive is OK their engine is a good replacement for the Perkins derived Volvo.

Hope this helps

Jeffatoms

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Sadly we had more than $20,000 of work done on saildrive and engine 27 months ago which we are still paying off.  Our boat neighbor has a B37cruiser and it had water in transmission at purchase so he had repairs done for about $7,000 usd at that time (due to sling lift from saildrive).  He found quote for new saildrive for $12,500.

I dove on the boat yesterday and saw nothing underwater that was unusual.  Prop spun fine.  No sign of impact.

I too am curious about oil weight.  Last time (two weeks ago) I tried to look down into transmission (below cap) I couldn't unspin cap.  At the time I blamed arthritis but now thinkinking it was wedged up by the shaft.

I found a photo of it before all of this and I am quite sure that mine didnt have a #25 lock washer or #29 locking ring, just a stack of washers (26, 27 & 28 in attached schematic photo).  It would be good to have a picture of another.

I am wondering if it is possible to just change our the upper gear unit/transmission in the water, sans haulout?

Huge thanks!!! to all who have offered advice and thoughts!

Jeff & Sue
S/V Zephyrus

Jeffatoms

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Sadly we had more than $20,000 of work done on saildrive and engine 27 months ago which we are still paying off.  Our boat neighbor has a B37cruiser and it had water in transmission at purchase so he had repairs done for about $7,000 usd at that time (due to sling lift from saildrive).  He found quote for new saildrive for $12,500.

I scuba dove on/under the boat yesterday and saw nothing underwater that was unusual.  Prop spun fine.  No sign of impact.

I too am curious about oil weight.  Last time (two weeks ago) I tried to look down into transmission (below cap) I couldn't unspin cap.  At the time I blamed arthritis but now thinking it was wedged up by the shaft.

I found a photo of it before all of this and I am quite sure that mine didnt have a #25 lock washer or #29 locking ring, just a stack of washers (26, 27 & 28 in attached schematic photo).  It would be good to have a picture of another.

I am wondering if it is possible to just change our the upper gear unit/transmission in the water, sans haulout?

Huge thanks!!! to all who have offered advice and thoughts!

Jeff & Sue
S/V Zephyrus

geoff

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Jeff, It looks as if the lock ring has come off and allowed the thrust washer to migrate upwards. I am trying to attach a photo of my spare unit. Geoff

Yngmar

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I am wondering if it is possible to just change our the upper gear unit/transmission in the water, sans haulout?

No, definitely not. Not only are they bolted together from the underside (=outside), but the seacock is also in the upper unit and removing it would leave nothing to stop gushing water into the boat.

Although painted with white antifoul, you can see the bolts in the photo from my 2015 overhaul of ours:


Will try and get you a photo of cap and top of unit tomorrow.
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Symphony

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Re-reading your original post, not sure where the idea of overheating comes from. frothy white oil is a classic symptom of water entering the drive from damaged seals in the lower drive unit. The oil is likely to be expelled through a defective filler cap seal as water enters. This may not be terminal and obviously the first thing to do is haul the boat and drain the drive. The lower seals can be replaced relatively easily and even if the shaft is worn that can often be refurbished with a sleeve.

What makes drives unrepairable is if metal deposits are found in oil coming from a seized clutch pack (which is what happened to mine) but there is nothing to indicate this is what has happened to yours.

Nothing to lose by draining the oil, changing the seals and refilling with the correct API GL-5 SAE 75W-90 oil.

Jeffatoms

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Old Salt, much thanks.  I'm glad you are a voice of experience.  We feel like ambulance drivers where we stabilized the patient and are in the slow process of transporting to the "right hospital" with an intermediate stop at our home port marina.  Just gathering info right now.

We suspect VERY high heat from undo friction because the black top cap is completely deformed upward (see bulge under handle in first photo herein), there are a bunch of mangled parts melted up inside of the cap and one of the washers is melted through the threaded part of the cap (2nd photo herein).

All of this seems quite unusual and in fact, I took a photo looking downward following the last service to document the work and mine did not look like the "normal" on in Geoff's photo.  It appears our was not properly installed / bad workmanship...leading to wobbly parts and high heat.

Again, thanks for really good info.  I'm feeling less like this was preventable by us and was simply a ticking time bomb.
Jeff & Sue

Yngmar

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Photos of our filler cap and top of saildrive 120S-E:


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Jeffatoms

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In comparing your photo looking downward vs mine (pre-damage) it appears mine did not have the locking mechanism fastener in place/replaced following the last service done about 150 hour previously.   

I'm speculating that those parts are critically important to direct the engine's thrust properly downward to the prop rotation and not upward to cause heat and friction in the wrong areas.

Also please see photo up and inside my cap, noting melt and four mangled washers.

Yngmar

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Yup, definitely something missing there. Unfortunately looks like you'll be looking for a good lawyer - it's unlikely the workshop will admit the fault. They probably had some parts left over after the job  :-\
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geoff

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Re: Saildrive transmission overheated B38Ocean - thoughts & ideas
« Reply #13 on: August 01 2019, 16:42 »
Jeff if the work to your saildrive was just a diaphragm change it would not involve ANY disturbance to the gearbox section of the leg. The gearbox section is chock full of tight clearances and needs special tools and expertise  to repair. Geoff