When I purchased my boat it had a few boards that un-bonded and warped due to water getting underneath and freezing. I had an estimate from a professional teak guy and it was over $1000 to repair. I said thank you and went on line to get instructions to do it myself. It wasn't that hard to do but there were a few gotchas. Thankfully the deck isn't screwed in like teak decks of the past so it's water tight even if water gets under the teak. I took an oscillating saw (an example:
http://www.northwestpowertools.com/sanders/detail/fmm250qselectplus.htm ). I carefully staggered the cross cuts so when I recaulked it wouldn't look like a hack. don't cut straight across all the boards otherwise it will look like an access hatch or patch. Carefully pull the teak strips up. A small lifting bar helps. don't crack the wood strips. after you've removed the section that has lifted clean it to the best of your ability. Don't go nuts because you're going to put epoxy over it. Just get the dirt and dust up. Make sure it's dry too. I had to let mine dry out for a week or so. I covered the entire section with a plastic tent to make sure it didn't get wet again. Make sure to dry fit them and ensure the ends have a little extra cut off to account for the width of the black caulking. You want to look as professional as possible. even width counts. use spacers.
I took a bunch of flat patio stones for weight since my teak had a wave/bow in it. I didn't want to put new teak in because I thought it might not have the same look. When it weathered it would have probably been fine. I should have used epoxy putty but used a thinner epoxy resin and made a mess when I reset the teak pieces back in. after I set the pieces in epoxy I put all the weight on the boards to hold them down and left them for a couple days. When I took the weight off I had the thin epoxy hardened as it overflowed from between the boards. If you use the right amount and use putty epoxy you can certainly minimize or eliminate this step. This is where all the work of cleaning up my oops came in. I had to very carefully cut all the excess hardened epoxy out and it was tedious and painfully slow. to ensure I could properly caulk between the boards.
When the channel was properly cut I laid the thin strip of paper down in the channel before running the black caulking per the instructions. It was my first time working with this stuff so it was another learning experience. It came out pretty good for a first caulking experience. Then I shaved the excess off and sanded it down. That's it.
It sounds like a lot of steps but it wasn't that bad other than the epoxy screw up. It was certainly better than spending over $1000 to have someone else do it. If you have any questions let me know. I usually take pictures of my projects but couldn't find the pics for this one.
